Common glue to install a tip?

nfuids said:
reading about loctite, it seems it is a CA glue... so what's the difference between loctite and another brand like krazy glue?
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Cyanoacrylate is the chemical name of what we typically call "super glue." Additivies can make it toughened, less brittle, stretchable, more rigid, less viscous, more viscous, etc... In general terms, any additive will "weaken" the bond strength (in tension and/or shear), not that it matters in tips.

Loctite is a brand name currently owned by the Henkel Group. They have many (hundreds) of adhesives and adhesive families under their brand, including cyanoacrylate adhesives, urethanes, epoxies, etc. Although very commercially available in retail, I would say the vast majority of Loctite is used by manufacturing industries (medical, automotive, aerospace, etc.)

Krazy Glue is retail brand name, popularized in the 70's with their single cyanoacrylate product (they may have more today). Their TV advertisement showed a man gluing his helmet to a beam and dangling from that beam.


Freddie <~~~ adhesively speaking
 
myself and many cue makers on here have vouched for locktight brand specifically the long time locktight 454.....been using that since i was 12...seriously. lol

some ca's and other types of glue hold better on particular ferrule materials...that glue pretty much is the nuts with anythng.


tho in regards to feel i've heard many swear by contact cement.....the glue that the repair people drove me to start doing my own tips as a kid....but i could see where that thought would come from and is completely possible i guess....it does harden over time though and gets hard as ca does imop....just look at old rail glue.
 
nfuids said:
Thanks y'all!
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For years rubber cement was used and some people still use it.
Have about HD 6 rubber bands glue the tip on and do slip knots around the shaft and over the tip with the rubber bands
24hrs later you are good to go .

Don't use epoxy ............
It doesn't stick to the ferrule..............
 
nfuids said:
But why use Super Glue AND loclite?

I just found out the Krazy Glue is in fact Cyanoacrylate adhesive. Could I simply use that? Or I also need some other stuff like loclite?
Click to expand...

Loctite is a brand. They are a big company and make a million different types of adhesives. The originally may have been best know for their various thread locker type products (that keep screws and nuts from unscrewing). However, they make an array of glues, including CA glues. The Ultra Gel Control is one type they make. The Loctite Professional is another type.

Hope that helps clear that up.

KMRUNOUT
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned contact cement till the last 3 replies.
As far as not having a tip pop off, super glue and contact cement both do the job, it's just that tips glued with super glue might have a slightly higher chance of popping off when they're down to a few layers left (which is close to the time you should replace your tip anyway)
However, super glue will penetrate into the tip and change how it plays, you won't feel it when your tip still has 8 layers.
Another advantage for contact cement is your ferrule will have a longer life, it won't require that much trimming of your ferrule when you want to replace a tip (to make the glue surface flat). If you don't have a lathe, this process will drive you crazy sometimes
And no contact cement doesn't need 24 hours to dry... I usually wait for an hour, then i start cutting/shaping and it's good to play. The guy taught me how to replace tips waits 20 minutes only.
 
mortuarymike-nv said:
For years rubber cement was used and some people still use it.
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They did? They do? I've never heard of a single cue mechanic using rubber cement. Did you mean contact cement?

Don't use epoxy ............
It doesn't stick to the ferrule..............
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That's just downright silly. What do you think cuemakers use to stick a ferrule to the shaft in the first place?

Freddie <~~~ adhesives is my third name
 
greyghost said:
myself and many cue makers on here have vouched for locktight brand specifically the long time locktight 454.....been using that since i was 12...seriously. lol
some ca's and other types of glue hold better on particular ferrule materials...that glue pretty much is the nuts with anythng.
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Thanks ghost. This Locktite 454 was what I was trying to remember, yesterday, but couldn't.
I never had a customers tip come of with this stuff. It's the best. :smile:
 
Tramp Steamer said:
Thanks ghost. This Locktite 454 was what I was trying to remember, yesterday, but couldn't.
I never had a customers tip come of with this stuff. It's the best. :smile:
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yep.....da tripple LOCKTITE stone cold nutz! all these years....thats what about to be 20....dam....anyways never had one pop off using the 454...other glues and ca's yes....never with 454. they have expanded their adhesives at wallmart and the gorilla super glues are good......

but they aint got chit on the champ.....my uncle was the one who gave it to me back when.....helicopter mechanic they had just started using it themselves

its still not sold in stores, but you can buy small tubes and bottles....not expensive.
 
and people mentioning rubber and contact......they aren't the same....commonly confused that they are.....contact cement is what we are meaning....its "permanenet", rubber cememt is not.
 
Back in the 80's I remember tip repair kits with rubber cement. Do you recall when cyanoacrylate became popular?


mortuarymike-nv said:
For years rubber cement was used and some people still use it.
Have about HD 6 rubber bands glue the tip on and do slip knots around the shaft and over the tip with the rubber bands
24hrs later you are good to go .

Don't use epoxy ............
It doesn't stick to the ferrule..............
Click to expand...
 
Contact Cement because it won't penetrate the leather and then harden and shatter the Elk Master tip..
 
LAMas said:
Contact Cement because it won't penetrate the leather and then harden and shatter the Elk Master tip..
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for soft tips when people were still using the elk masters alot.....i would always smear a thin light coat on the bottom of the tip first.....to stop what you mention.....then i would apply tip. as you are correct.....i've seen them chunk off a corner because ofthat.
 
In the late 70's, I had the pleasure of spending the afternoon w/Harvey Martin, the famous old school hall of fame cuemaker. He took me to a hardware store to help me buy stuff to change out tips (knife, grinding stone, glue, etc.) and then we went to his apartment where he showed me how he put on tips for all the greats in the game. He used yellow Elmer's glue (carpenter's?) so that's what I bought.

I will say that that was like spending the afternoon w/my grandfather when I was younger and having him teach me stuff...I still get a warm feeling thinking about it.

I know things have changed w/adhesives and I always use super glue gel, but I thought you would enjoy a little story to break up the tech talk. Carry on. :)

Dave
 
Having tried about everything available on the market, my favourites are Loctite 401 and Loctite professional, they never let me down.
 
I've been using Hot Stuff...the thicker stuff. Works great on most tips, but it doesn't seem to like Ultraskins.

The reason I really like Hot Stuff for a general shop CA is that tops and tips are very cheap if you buy them in bulk direct from the manufacturer. I'm still not exactly sure why it doesn't behave with Ultraskin tips (and I would assume, other some other layered tips as well). Maybe I need to "size" the joint with some thin CA first. When it comes apart, it looks starved to me.

Anyhow, I'm getting on the Loctite bandwagon with everyone else, but if I can figure out what's up with Hotstuff, I'll surely switch back.
 
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