Inch and 3/8 through bore

ideologist

I don't never exaggerate
Silver Member
Is 1.375 enough for you guys to do buttsleeve work on a cue? Or do the butts hang out too far?

A guy that I know local to me has a really nice Southbend with a 1.375 bore in the headstock. I haven't gone to see it in person yet, but I'm going to bring some of my old blanks and see what the run-out is like on the lathe with some old Brunswick cues chucked up.
 
Lathe

If it's great grandpas southbend them probably not, the old machines have a really wide spindle... you know the size/model of lathe?

Remember.... the machines are cheap... it's the tooling that's gonna kill ya!





Rob.M
 
Is 1.375 enough for you guys to do buttsleeve work on a cue? Or do the butts hang out too far?

A guy that I know local to me has a really nice Southbend with a 1.375 bore in the headstock. I haven't gone to see it in person yet, but I'm going to bring some of my old blanks and see what the run-out is like on the lathe with some old Brunswick cues chucked up.

My old jet lathe has that size bore and it's not been a problem.

Any runout you find will likely be in the chuck, not the lathe. You can true up those old self centering 3 jaw chucks in pretty short order.

JC
 
Is 1.375 enough for you guys to do buttsleeve work on a cue? Or do the butts hang out too far?

A guy that I know local to me has a really nice Southbend with a 1.375 bore in the headstock. I haven't gone to see it in person yet, but I'm going to bring some of my old blanks and see what the run-out is like on the lathe with some old Brunswick cues chucked up.

You're going to indicate a cue ? Try a drill rod blank or Thompson rod.
I used a 30" 7/8 thompson rod to install the rear chuck.

A SB should be ok unless it's all beat-up.
 
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You're going to indicate a cue ? Try a drill rod blank or Thompson rod.
I used a 30" 7/8 thompson rod to install the rear chuck.

A SB should be ok unless it's all beat-up.

I meant more, how much slop is there in a butt hanging out 6 inches? I've only done buttsleeve and cue drilling work on the backend on a Porper or Hightower, but it sounds like 1-3/8 is enough to chuck up pretty close to the headstock.

For run-out, I have the calibration tools already. My father has some old stainless truing stock he machined down to measure run-out and aligning headstock and tailstock.

This lathe was only used in a lab for making some test parts, it never ran production. It's a later model Heavy 10.
 
I meant more, how much slop is there in a butt hanging out 6 inches? I've only done buttsleeve and cue drilling work on the backend on a Porper or Hightower, but it sounds like 1-3/8 is enough to chuck up pretty close to the headstock.

For run-out, I have the calibration tools already. My father has some old stainless truing stock he machined down to measure run-out and aligning headstock and tailstock.

This lathe was only used in a lab for making some test parts, it never ran production. It's a later model Heavy 10.
I am lost.
Why would the butt be hanging 6 inches?
Inside the spindle or out of the chuck?
Inside, you need to sleeve it.
Outside, you would not let it hang that far out.
 
Is 1.375 enough for you guys to do buttsleeve work on a cue? Or do the butts hang out too far?

A guy that I know local to me has a really nice Southbend with a 1.375 bore in the headstock. I haven't gone to see it in person yet, but I'm going to bring some of my old blanks and see what the run-out is like on the lathe with some old Brunswick cues chucked up.

Are you considering buying the late or just using it?

I assume you are asking about putting the joint end thru the headstock. If so, 6 inches
out from the chuck should not be a problem for working on the butt.

If all else fails, you could use a steadyrest.

BTW - what is the distance-between-centers?

Dale
 
Are you considering buying the late or just using it?

I assume you are asking about putting the joint end thru the headstock. If so, 6 inches
out from the chuck should not be a problem for working on the butt.

If all else fails, you could use a steadyrest.

BTW - what is the distance-between-centers?

Dale


My concern was trying to do work on larger than 1.375 tapered pieces through the headstock. However, only a couple of inches on some of those old cues are at or above that diameter, so it should be fine.

It's a 54" bed, so realistically, you're getting 44" between centers. I'm hoping to buy it and set it up at home in an indoor/outdoor shop.
 
My concern was trying to do work on larger than 1.375 tapered pieces through the headstock. However, only a couple of inches on some of those old cues are at or above that diameter, so it should be fine.

It's a 54" bed, so realistically, you're getting 44" between centers. I'm hoping to buy it and set it up at home in an indoor/outdoor shop.

I have that same lathe. It works great for cues that are standard lenght.

Larry
 
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