In One Pocket, you both need one ball. It is your shot...a spot shot, cue ball in the kitchen, and your pocket is on the left. What English would you put on the shot? I have heard several strong opinions....What is yours???
Whatever's least likely to screw the shot up. In other words, none.In One Pocket, you both need one ball. It is your shot...a spot shot, cue ball in the kitchen, and your pocket is on the left. What English would you put on the shot? I have heard several strong opinions....What is yours???
Both are B players. Only one ball on the table. Yes, several times as it is a warm up shot for me.So who are you playing?
Is it the only ball on the table?
Have you made a spot shot in the last month?
Are you familiar with "the rule of 4"?
It is one of the things that make Briesaths DVDs worth every cent.Both are B players. Only one ball on the table. Yes, several times as it is a warm up shot for me.
No, what is the rule of four? Thanks
I don’t play one-pocket, but my hunch is you’re going to have difficulty hitting the object ball thin enough to bank it and hard enough to draw the cue balll to the side rail without risking scratching in your opponent’s corner and without risking the object ball not ending up near your corner pocket if you miss, which is most the critical goal for this shot.I agree with doing whatever is highest percentage for you. It is strange to argue on this one. Telling someone they should feel more comfortable hitting it differently than they prefer is kind of pretensious.
As for strategic merit (i.e 'what if I miss?) I prefer to go all in on spot shots in this situation and would prefer to max out my make percentage than start planning for a miss.
I don't even have a preference. Sometimes I shoot this with high center, sometimes high with some outside, usually I'll draw to the side rail with a twist of outside. Just depends what looks comfortable at the time.
If I have ball in hand in the kitchen, I'll set it up like this and roll the cue ball at comfort speed.Whatever's least likely to screw the shot up. In other words, none.
Nobody mentioned banking but you can bank it safe 4 rails.I don’t play one-pocket, but my hunch is you’re going to have difficulty hitting the object ball thin enough to bank it and hard enough to draw the cue balll to the side rail without risking scratching in your opponent’s corner and without risking the object ball not ending up near your corner pocket if you miss, which is most the critical goal for this shot.
Sorry, I was totally confused with my first answer, assuming you had to bank the object ball off the side rail, but if you had ball in hand in the kitchen, it’s just a simple spot shot.I don’t play one-pocket, but my hunch is you’re going to have difficulty hitting the object ball thin enough to bank it and hard enough to draw the cue balll to the side rail without risking scratching in your opponent’s corner and without risking the object ball not ending up near your corner pocket if you miss, which is most the critical goal for this shot.
Yes, the center axis hit with no sliding (4/5 of maximum follow) should be most reliable.Top english. My home school pool learning causes me to believe that top spin will cause the CB to track truer and a true track is essential to pocketing long shots. Pocket speed.
This question reminds me of a story I heard about Ronnie Allen. At Tacoma Whitey’s place he made a spot shot proposition bet. The proposition was one handed spot shot and the cue ball would not touch a rail. One attempt for all the money any wanted to bet. The pockets on the table were full of money. He did it!
I was told it required a curving cue ball that hooks into the spotted ball and makes the contact fuller than a simple cut. Hence it doesn’t get to the end rail after pocketing the object ball.