Man, I would like to learn that. Thank you.
I never use the diamonds. How many of you do?
- Thread starter alphadog
- Start date
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There are lots of table diagrams available here, including my scale drawing of a GC: https://billiards.colostate.edu/resources/templates/
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Always play the first couple as a 2 way shot, that way if they don't go at least your opponent has no shot.
Yes Always !
I have said this before ,But I believe if you dont have a system ,Your Guessing IMHO.
I have said this before ,But I believe if you dont have a system ,Your Guessing IMHO.
I think you're "guessing" (estimating) either way, but maybe less (or more consistently) with a good system.
pj
chgo
Here is the gist of the system:
We have the CB on a line between 2 diamonds on opposite sides of the table (blue Aim Line)
We have an equi-angle reflection at the reflection point on the rail (red Reflect Line)
We transit the red line farther down table to the line of the diamond (where the blue line is pointing) and turn it green (Diamond Line)
The purple line (Path) represents the actual path of the CB with natural roll and no sidespin between slow and medium speed*.
The top of this line contains an arc very similar to that drawn by Bob Jewett earlier in this thread.
After about 1 diamond of length the arc stops, and the rest of the purple line is straight.
The purple line intersects the green line at the ending diamond (on a 9-foot table) shorter tables play shorter.
If you are just trying not to take a scratch the arc of the purple line can be ignored.
(*){Slow means the CB has the velocity to roll 1 length of the table (9-feet) before coming to a stop.
Medium means the CB has the velocity to roll 2 lengths (18-feet) of the table before coming to a stop.}
We have the CB on a line between 2 diamonds on opposite sides of the table (blue Aim Line)
We have an equi-angle reflection at the reflection point on the rail (red Reflect Line)
We transit the red line farther down table to the line of the diamond (where the blue line is pointing) and turn it green (Diamond Line)
The purple line (Path) represents the actual path of the CB with natural roll and no sidespin between slow and medium speed*.
The top of this line contains an arc very similar to that drawn by Bob Jewett earlier in this thread.
After about 1 diamond of length the arc stops, and the rest of the purple line is straight.
The purple line intersects the green line at the ending diamond (on a 9-foot table) shorter tables play shorter.
If you are just trying not to take a scratch the arc of the purple line can be ignored.
(*){Slow means the CB has the velocity to roll 1 length of the table (9-feet) before coming to a stop.
Medium means the CB has the velocity to roll 2 lengths (18-feet) of the table before coming to a stop.}
tomatoshooter
Well-known member
At that point I would confuse and conflate systems into something that never works.
Diamonds on a Pool table are not decorations, they are a tool you must master to play pool well.
Funny how many people who play pool for fun have no ideas why, or what Diamonds reference.
Funny how many people who play pool for fun have no ideas why, or what Diamonds reference.
Yes, aiming at the diamond behind the equal angle spot on the cushion nose works so well it makes me wonder if the diamonds aren't purposely placed to be just right for that.
If the table is banking longer or shorter, you can use another consistent distance behind the equal angle aimpoint for your adjusted aimpoint.
pj
chgo
P.S. You have to look closely to see the little curve in the rolling CB's rebound path because it happens pretty much immediately - but it's there.
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I think the main reason to work with various systems is to get a feel for the paths they cover. You will get experience with kicking faster that way than by just waiting for shots to come up in games.
I think it's a combination of the depth of the diamonds and the profile chosen for the rubber. I think both of those came from Michael Phelan, so they may have been coordinated.
By "work" you mean practice ?
Most of the systems I've seen don't actually work exactly as advertised. You have to put work into them to understand their accuracy, their limits and especially about how they can go wrong under different conditions and what you have to do to make them go right.
Like a 10X Fuller video I got a kick out of watching
Not a dig I fully appreciate all you do for the pool community.
tomatoshooter
Well-known member
Yes, I've only tried a couple but I have seen how they each have a range where they work really well with a minor amount of correction, and ranges where they don't work so well, at least not without at least a fair bit of correction. It seems like you need to learn the spot where a system is dead on and which way to cheat as you diverge from that point.
Geosnookery
Well-known member
Never even think about them. I just have a feel where to hit. It’s like passing a puck to a skating team mate or tossing a football to a running receiver . A split second instinct for the physics is there without any conscious calculation.
Using diamonds are fine but I know what works ‘for me’. My potting success isn’t any better because I take 30 seconds instead of 18 seconds on a difficult shot. Any extra time I take between shots is for strategy and not accuracy. I likely am conditioned from playing Snooker and when I get on a Pool table my eyes don’t even see the diamonds.
Having said this, now and then I’ll watch a video lesson by Dr Dave on angles, etc. I’d certainly recommend them for players. However, I tend to watch for my own satisfaction of understanding the physics going on The more we know a subject, the more interesting it becomes. It’s all the ‘stuff’ about a sport thet makes it fun.
Using diamonds are fine but I know what works ‘for me’. My potting success isn’t any better because I take 30 seconds instead of 18 seconds on a difficult shot. Any extra time I take between shots is for strategy and not accuracy. I likely am conditioned from playing Snooker and when I get on a Pool table my eyes don’t even see the diamonds.
Having said this, now and then I’ll watch a video lesson by Dr Dave on angles, etc. I’d certainly recommend them for players. However, I tend to watch for my own satisfaction of understanding the physics going on The more we know a subject, the more interesting it becomes. It’s all the ‘stuff’ about a sport thet makes it fun.
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The diamonds were placed exactly "that far back" for exactly those reasons.
The setback is dependent on the weight (and rotational inertia) of the balls and somewhat dependent on the friction of the cloth-because these are the 2 things that create the arc as the ball reflects of the nose of the rail.
I don't know if the offset is also dependent on the compressibility of the rails or not.
