It was a brand new install so nothing was on itDid you make sure to thoroughly clean the old chalk off? I've been having no trouble with my white diamond break tip. It sticks very well for me.
It was a brand new install so nothing was on itDid you make sure to thoroughly clean the old chalk off? I've been having no trouble with my white diamond break tip. It sticks very well for me.
That's odd. You probably already did, but maybe try roughing it some with sandpaper or a tip tool.It was a brand new install so nothing was on it
Master chalk is about $20 for a gross box of 144 pieces. Magic chalk I believe sells at around $3-$4 a piece wholesale, so it’s still roughly 15-20 times the cost of Master chalk, at least wholesale price. Obviously the mark up for selling Master chalk is a significantly higher percentage markup than Magic chalk.Yeah, I totally get that, seems unreasonable to expect any commercial operation to consider chalk as anything other than a low cost consumable. Seems like if the price point came down by quite a bit, might help that equation - basic large-volume-small-margin vs large-margin-small-volume economics - but I’m sure Taom knows their own biz! Seems like there could be a happy medium there somewhere… but realistically even Russian Magic is way cleaner than Masters and maybe only 2-3x the cost and we never see it in pool rooms, so its really just wishful thinking on my part…
I used the sand paper on the last forever tip tool to make my shape,on my lathe as it spunThat's odd. You probably already did, but maybe try roughing it some with sandpaper or a tip tool.
How can this be true on a masse' or jump or other shot where the tip touches the table? My concern is that if this chalk DOES manage to get on the table, is it staining of the cloth? Does it come up with a vacuum? Brush? Water? All of the above? I would really like to hear the answer to this from someone who has gotten this chalk on their cloth where the color is highly different from the chalk. Thanks.taom doesnt reach the cloth
How can this be true on a masse' or jump or other shot where the tip touches the table? My concern is that if this chalk DOES manage to get on the table, is it staining of the cloth? Does it come up with a vacuum? Brush? Water? All of the above? I would really like to hear the answer to this from someone who has gotten this chalk on their cloth where the color is highly different from the chalk. Thanks.
It's for sale on eBay here in the statesmaster user here, but I'd like to try a roll of the v10..anybody part with one or where should I buy?
As a room owner, I honestly can’t see absolutely ever justifying spending approximately 100 X as much $ supplying Taom chalk free to our customers compared to master chalk.
As much as you would stress to your staff to make sure to confirm that two pieces are sent out with and returned with every tray of balls, I have a feeling you’d have numerous pieces of chalk walking out of your poolroom!
I can't stand a filthy shaft and ferrule! My Predator Vantage doesn't clean up all that great around the ferrule. But have recently discovered Dr Cue shaft cleaner... I use Pyro and love it... How does it differ from the V10?I'm also a recent convert. Dittos to all your points. I haven't cleaned my table after two weeks of heavy use and my bridge fingers are still clean. I had been using the Pyro for several weeks before I could get a hold of the V10 and couldn't imagine any improvement as the Pyro outperformed every chalk I had ever used. But the V10 takes the cake. There were a lot of happy campers when I dumped all my old chalk - Masters, Predator, Navigator, et al, at my pool hall.
I totally agree! Once it falls into the pocket bye bye... Luckily mine rolled down to the ball return on a Diamond Table!I recently tried the Taom V10 chalk and my only complaint is I wish it was a cube instead of round--not a big deal. Other than that I like the chalk a lot. I bought 9pcs from Taom to bring the total cost per pc down.
Amazon has it.master user here, but I'd like to try a roll of the v10..anybody part with one or where should I buy?
Ya your experience mirrors mine. I am blown away with this clean this chalk is. If you own your table and play frequently I think it's money well spent. I still haven't wiped my cue ball down once after 3 playing sessions and can't see any chalk on the cloth. Cloth also doesn't feel as gritty. They hit a home run with this. Really glad I tried it out. I won't play with my masters ever again due to cleanliness difference. Next time I buy I will likely get a set of 9 to cut cost down that should last me a really long time.Sucker born every minuet but not concerning this new chalk. Gotta say after more that 50years of using Masters chalk I am amazed with the new Taom
V10 product enough that I ain't looking back. I received the stuff a few days ago and before play, I cleaned the table a couple of times. Vacuumed , then damp
cloth wipe down and let dry for a few hours. Used the polish compound to clean the balls and them micro towel finishing. After about 4 hours of play , my hands
were cleaner than I had ever seen. My table played so smooth , it was like playing on glass. Had to back to back runs over 50 balls and was well pleased with
how the table played. There was a small bit of grime where I lay down my bridge hand, but after cleaning the table a couple more times the hands are clean.
Seemed like the cue ball drew better than before also. The 860 HR is a bit coarser than regular 860 , making draw a bit tougher.
The chalk goes on like a paste and doesn't have crystal like particles falling from the chalk , like the Masters does. I have played many years and at a speed
at one time that some thought was exceptional . This chalk is exceptional , and expensive, yep, but figure that after the cleaning that you do for the table, and then not having to do that as much this chalk may save money, and the playing surface plays like glass afterwards. Have played about 20 hours since receiving
the product and the chalk looks like it is still new.
My 2 cents issued
Fairly reasonable price at SeybertsSyberts also.