tips..........

SSDiver2112 said:
Great advice. Consistency is a virtue in pool. Aim, stance, stroke... Find a tip that you like stick with it so your "hit" stays consistent too.

My cue came with a Kamui Clear. Having heard the name thrown around a lot I assumed it to be a great tip (especially at the price). Had to fiddle with it constantly. Finally admitting this should be like this, I had to try something else. Going off a recommendation here, I tried a Thoroughbred medium and really liked how much better it played. I think out of habit I still scuffed and shaped it too much. I was too anal about having it perfectly shaped all the time and ground it down quickly. I installed a new one, and with a new frame of mind, I got it shaped right and then just give it a scuff or tap as truly needed. It has been consistent performing tip for months now, so I think I'll stick with it.
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T'bred's are nice tips.
 
what ever you put on you have to play with it for a while to get the new hit into your brain and the old one out.

once you try to make up your mind in a few racks you are lost.

remember all the great past and present use different tips and they all play great
 
I have played with lots of different tips in the last 53 years of playing pool. There are lots of good choices. Right now I don't know of a better playing tip than the Zan medium. They remind me of the second and third generation Moori mediums. They hold chalk nicely and have a resilience and hit I like. No tip picking required so far. All tips I have played with except phenolic are expected to mushroom--some more and some less. With the Zan medium a slight tip trim after 5-6 hours of play and the tip is pretty much set.
 
Well today in 2022 most of the Pool supply hoses hsve 20’or more Tips to choose from.

Reason so many, customer all have favorites.😁
 
Got a 10 pack of ultra skins, my take is that black soft is like a good triangle. The ivory medium have a dry glass like hit on soft shots.

To me, soft shots should feel like a bump. A good triangle feels like that, so does that black soft.
 
Misnomer:
whammo57 said:
3, it grips the cue ball,...........................................
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Chalk (silicon carbide, today) is what grips the cue-ball not the leather on the tip.

SiC has molecular sized finger tips that are seriously hard (like Rockwell:C 60) and are fourth in hardness compared to diamond. Far harder than the hardest heat treated steels.
The SiC fingers dig into the phenolic surface of the CB
The SiC fingers dig into the leather tip. The leather tip supports the SiC granule so they do not roll during the millisecond of contact.
The SiC fingers dig into these things even at stroke speeds under 1 inch per minute.
It is the SiC fingers that create the friction that enable off center shots.

The CB material is chosen so that it still looks shiny for a long time while the SiC fingers put molecular sized divots in its surface.
The Tip material is chose so that massive numbers of molecular sized divots do not wear the tip down.

Chalk (like what you write on black boards with) is aluminum-oxide; another abrasive that does similar work but does not create as much friction as SiC. This is what the first chalks were made of (cut from the "white cliffs of Dover")

If the leather is too soft, the SiC fingers will roll during impact (this is around 25 on the durometer we use to measure tip hardness). And these tips will mushroom in a couple dozen strokes anyway. No leather (or phenolic) is so hard that the SiC fingers will not embed. It takes something hard like steel when there are cue stick velocities slow enough for the SiC not work as desired.
 
MitchAlsup said:
Misnomer:

Chalk (silicon carbide, today) is what grips the cue-ball not the leather on the tip.

SiC has molecular sized finger tips that are seriously hard (like Rockwell:C 60) and are fourth in hardness compared to diamond. Far harder than the hardest heat treated steels.
The SiC fingers dig into the phenolic surface of the CB
The SiC fingers dig into the leather tip. The leather tip supports the SiC granule so they do not roll during the millisecond of contact.
The SiC fingers dig into these things even at stroke speeds under 1 inch per minute.
It is the SiC fingers that create the friction that enable off center shots.

The CB material is chosen so that it still looks shiny for a long time while the SiC fingers put molecular sized divots in its surface.
The Tip material is chose so that massive numbers of molecular sized divots do not wear the tip down.

Chalk (like what you write on black boards with) is aluminum-oxide; another abrasive that does similar work but does not create as much friction as SiC. This is what the first chalks were made of (cut from the "white cliffs of Dover")

If the leather is too soft, the SiC fingers will roll during impact (this is around 25 on the durometer we use to measure tip hardness). And these tips will mushroom in a couple dozen strokes anyway. No leather (or phenolic) is so hard that the SiC fingers will not embed. It takes something hard like steel when there are cue stick velocities slow enough for the SiC not work as desired.
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Well that is definitely the most informative tip/chalk info I’ve ever seen posted. Thx!
 
Tip means Triangle

Tips means Triangle & LePro

That’s all there is**(almost)

Best
Fatboy

**the rest is marketing hype

(There’s Chandeverts-sp?), I have some in my secret stash-same idea as above. I’ll post a pic when I get back home. They are single layer French tips from WAY back in the day.
 
Hard to go wrong with a really good non layered tip. The hard part is finding a good lepro, triangle, or elk. I dig the outsville technodud, a lot, but I have tip OCD and I don't like how it's hard to keep a good burnish on a non layered tip. For layered tips Ive been really enjoying the Zan soft, medium, and hybrid max line of tips. I also love the grip and action of the predator victory " soft " tip IMHO I use soft lightly because even before broken in, I think its more of a great medium tip. And last but not least Kamui black "Soft" again I say this lightly... I recently have been giving this tip more tries, seems they may have fixed their glazing problem that I hated Kamui for in the past, granted I use Taom chalks. But as with every tip I have encountered you are bound to find a bad one in the bunch every once in awhile, Just sucks when it an expensive tip... With that being said Tips can play differently depending on what setup they are installed on, I could love one type of tip on a certain shaft and hate it on a completely different one.
 
here's tips on tips, first of all, we all like differences. we are all different in playing syles. some like hard and some like
soft. many pro's play with very cheap tips. .50 cents. other like more expensive tips. I'm telling you to think less about
equipment and more about fundamentals, and execution, and practice. just play. play, play. you'll find you'll be the
expert in the room.
 
RickHamme said:
here's tips on tips, first of all, we all like differences. we are all different in playing syles. some like hard and some like
soft. many pro's play with very cheap tips. .50 cents. other like more expensive tips. I'm telling you to think less about
equipment and more about fundamentals, and execution, and practice. just play. play, play. you'll find you'll be the
expert in the room.
Click to expand...

yeap its not really a big deal as people make it out to be
hard to tell much of a difference between so many tips anyways
 
I just went through a small break tip trial phase with a jump/break I got a few months ago.

Stock phenolic: Good but too hard stray off center, even in jumps.
White Diamond: Holds chalk well, wont damage CB, breaks good, can apply spin. Bad: it feels like you glued a green plastic army men's severed head to the end of your pool cue. Just feels smushy.
Outsville HH2: Pretty much all the attributes of the White Diamond but feels good instead of smushy. Seems to break a little harder, but where it shines is the jumping. Much easier to jump (for me) than with WD. WD's jump game was nowhere near as good.

I'm giving the HH2 a month or so but I think I'm going to put a Zan GripHard on it. I used ZanGH on my old McDermott and it broke better than any of the above tips. It was also my player, so I played the entire game with the same tip that stands up to breaking. Holds chalk better than most soft-medium tips.

So IMHO Zan GripHard is a perfect break tip, though it isn't advertised as one.
 
HueblerHustler7 said:
I dig the outsville technodud, a lot, but I have tip OCD and I don't like how it's hard to keep a good burnish on a non layered tip.
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When you install it, coat the sides of the tip with a black permanent sharpie. It will burnish and stay burnished very easily. No idea why but it lets you really put the shine to it. This works with many tips, not just milkduds, but even homemade duds really shine with this treatment.
 
Howdy All;

Re. break tips. I had a Talisman Break tip installed 5 years ago. Only a minor touch up
every so often is all it's required.

hank
 
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