My first reaction was nah. But too many positive posts not to try it. So here we go... ordered a few from Seyberts. What leaves me a little hazy is:
Revo shaft $499
Taom V10 ($20 after tax)
Triangle Tip $.75.... ( I know...don't complain)....but its seems like using cheap gas in a finely tuned car.
I've been a master chalk user for over 20+ years. The poolhall I've been playing at recently is really crappy, dirty tables or chalk so worn out, it's unusable and should be thrown out. I'm surprised this guy cleans the balls daily. It's so bad I actually had to buy chalk for myself.
I tried Kamui Roku it was okay, but i found that it made my table really dirty for allegedly "clean" chalk and seemed to go on very thick and seemed oily. I did get alot of hits in before i needed to re-chaulk.
Now I've been using Taom Pyro for about two weeks. I like it more then the Kamui Roku. It does not go on as thick and does not seem as oily. I feel it's in between both chalks. I can really get many shots in without re-chalking with Taom. It's a little bit Grittier then Kamui Roku and it keeps my table clean too.
For $20 it's not that bad. I'm not bitching on the price of it, i've spent more money on dumber things in pool. The people bitching about the price of it are the ones nickel and dimeing a $200 cue or crying about a $25 tip. I prefer to spend money on quality items.
On the plus side i'll always have consistent chalk now.
My first reaction was nah. But too many positive posts not to try it. So here we go... ordered a few from Seyberts. What leaves me a little hazy is:
Revo shaft $499
Taom V10 ($20 after tax)
Triangle Tip $.75.... ( I know...don't complain)....but its seems like using cheap gas in a finely tuned car.
This was kinda my logic as well... Recently spent a crap ton of money (relative) on a player and breaker. Small money on chalk, even if it's the most expensive chalk on the market, is comparably moot imo.
I've been a master chalk user for over 20+ years. The poolhall I've been playing at recently is really crappy, dirty tables or chalk so worn out, it's unusable and should be thrown out. I'm surprised this guy cleans the balls daily. It's so bad I actually had to buy chalk for myself.
I tried Kamui Roku it was okay, but i found that it made my table really dirty for allegedly "clean" chalk and seemed to go on very thick and seemed oily. I did get alot of hits in before i needed to re-chaulk.
Now I've been using Taom Pyro for about two weeks. I like it more then the Kamui Roku. It does not go on as thick and does not seem as oily. I feel it's in between both chalks. I can really get many shots in without re-chalking with Taom. It's a little bit Grittier then Kamui Roku and it keeps my table clean too.
For $20 it's not that bad. I'm not bitching on the price of it, i've spent more money on dumber things in pool. The people bitching about the price of it are the ones nickel and dimeing a $200 cue or crying about a $25 tip. I prefer to spend money on quality items.
On the plus side i'll always have consistent chalk now.
So I was using yellow triangle for many many moons. Zero complaints... Miscues are my fault, not my chalk's.
The V10 seems perfectly fine. Tip chalks up well. CB has spin when I want to apply it. No misuces yet, but the sample size is way too small and it would still be cause by a misplaced striking of the CB anyway, so I'm not sure how that validates anything.
I am a habitual chalker, so I would have to force myself to not chalk during my PSR. Not sure I care enough to deviate in that manner just to prove to myself I don't need to as much.
This was kinda my logic as well... Recently spent a crap ton of money (relative) on a player and breaker. Small money on chalk, even if it's the most expensive chalk on the market, is comparably moot imo.
I just started playing again after a long break. My custom cue's value got way up there in price, it's easily doubled almost triple what i paid for it. The last time i tried using it years ago i made a dent in the butt and had to get it refinished.
So i wasn't making that mistake again. I just recently bought some new gear.
So far i have:
Predator BK Rush.
Predator Sneaky Pete with 314 shaft and extension.
Extra 314 shaft
JB case on order.
I'm looking to get a Predator BK Air Rush
and possibly a Revo Shaft ( i'd like to try it out or i'm sticking to wood for quite a bit)
I know i look like a predator Fanboy. I've been using just their shafts for over 20 years and have always found their products to be great quality for production cues. My custom cue is not replaceable. This production stuff is. I have money that i can spend on cues so i gave predator a shot. They don't hit half bad.
My first reaction was nah. But too many positive posts not to try it. So here we go... ordered a few from Seyberts. What leaves me a little hazy is:
Revo shaft $499
Taom V10 ($20 after tax) Triangle Tip $.75.... ( I know...don't complain)....but its seems like using cheap gas in a finely tuned car.
I'm sure the manufacturer would accept more money for their tips if you wanted to say you had a more expensive tip.
No need to apologize. I use triangles. I know some actually great players who use triangles. They're better and more consistent than the $20-30 glazed donuts many people are putting on their cues nowadays.
My curiosity got the best of me after reading this thread. I ordered one last Friday and it came on Sunday. I really like this chalk a lot and marked on my calendar what day it came. I shoot everyday for at least two hours some days more and if it lasts two months I would consider only using it. No marks on the cue ball as others mentioned and in just two days my table is much cleaner. It is pricey but so far seems worth it.....
I see. Ok, let me correct that. Glad to have entertained you with my invalid feeble little contributions to the mighty Taom thread. The fact that you are a condescending arrogant ass, is just the annoying overhead of participating in forums, no harm, no foul. I'll engage with your snark a bit more, since you are so adept & proud of it, but in general let's all just agree that you are the man and wrap this up.
Likewise, its hilarious & bizarre to me you or anyone somehow believes that repeatedly stroking the surface of a relatively soft leather tip with an abrasive piece of grainy chalk doesn't have any effect on the shape of the tip. Not sure if its ignorance+hubris, or just being purposely obtuse, or what...
I don't have to shape my tip after initial shaping and yet it stays nearly perfectly rounded but unfortunately gets thinner over time, eventually needing replacement after 4-6 mo. I've now realized from JV's deep insight here that the question of how & where my leather tip material is disappearing to is apparently an unsolved mystery!. The effect is obviously worse for softer tips and much less so for hard tips. The blue scratches on house cue ferrules from bangers drilling them into worn out cubes is also then a head scratcher. How the whole emery boards & finger nail thing works, is an even more vexing physics anomaly that I'll have to now dig into.
Here's some more content to possibly enrichen your online pool life. If you take the time to actually watch/read these links, among all the other well known basic tip info - they mention the same "invalid & amusing" concept that I brought up, so you should enjoy them greatly. The last one is the patent on original silica based cue tip chalk from 1897 and it literally mentions that the corundum additive's abrasive qualities are specifically for the purpose of roughening the tip. It's rather obvious that the new breeds like Kamui, Toam etc are completely different recipes with different design goals and performance characteristics. None of this takes anything away from Taom v10 which is a very fine product (literally and figuratively).
How do I care for the cue tip? Maintain the tip shape with a shaper tool and remove mushrooming if it occurs. If you tip does not hold chalk very well, use a tapping tool (and a scuffer if necessary) to restore the surface. Otherwise, the only thing you need to do to maintain a […]
Here is a complete guide to pool cue tip wear and tear including how long the tip usually lasts, replacing it and how to maintain it so it lasts longer.
Now that you’ve purchased your very own pool cue, and hopefully followed some of the advice from earlier articles before doing so, you’re going to want to take care of your investment. A good cue is relatively durable and forgiving, … Continue reading →
So which chalk will give me a dime shape, is there a specific cheat code for applying chalk , 3 swipes to the left, 1 round house swipe and one drill revolution to hold the shape?
My curiosity got the best of me after reading this thread. I ordered one last Friday and it came on Sunday. I really like this chalk a lot and marked on my calendar what day it came. I shoot everyday for at least two hours some days more and if it lasts two months I would consider only using it. No marks on the cue ball as others mentioned and in just two days my table is much cleaner. It is pricey but so far seems worth it.....
If that is the case then it will be my new chalk. I think you might be right. I just wipe carefully around the edge of the tip and then look at it after 3 or 4 shots. If I am not spinning or drawing I keep on shooting. I have my own table and the room it is in has blue chalk on everything, so that alone might be reason enough to use it. I emailed Taom suggesting the price could be a little lower and they did respond back saying if you buy more than one it is discounted somewhat. So at 100 dollars for six chalks it would be worth it to me if they last longer than a year. Only been three days using it so I will evaluate more after a month or so, before I buy the 6 pack.
So which chalk will give me a dime shape, is there a specific cheat code for applying chalk , 3 swipes to the left, 1 round house swipe and one drill revolution to hold the shape?
I guess these little snipes explain your unfathomably high post count. Do you actually play pool, and do you ever have anything interesting or useful to contribute, or just have way too much time on your hands, like most of the fat old forum junkies around here?
I guess these little snipes explain your unfathomably high post count. Do you actually play pool, and do you ever have anything interesting or useful to contribute, or just have way too much time on your hands, like most of the fat old forum junkies around here?
I guess these little snipes explain your unfathomably high post count. Do you actually play pool, and do you ever have anything interesting or useful to contribute, or just have way too much time on your hands, like most of the fat old forum junkies around here?
I have the V10 and recently got a … what do I call a single piece when it’s not a cube? … of Pyro.
The V10 might be the best chalk I’ve ever tried. But, I’m legitimately concerned that it’s too good from a health and safety standpoint. Does anyone know what’s in this stuff? It seems to disappear, which is great, but concerned that it passes through the skin like a nano powder might.
I have the V10 and recently got a … what do I call a single piece when it’s not a cube? … of Pyro.
The V10 might be the best chalk I’ve ever tried. But, I’m legitimately concerned that it’s too good from a health and safety standpoint. Does anyone know what’s in this stuff? It seems to disappear, which is great, but concerned that it passes through the skin like a nano powder might.
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