Chris Reinhold recently posted the below 2 minute yo-yo drill video. He says that "you'll also realize that the more you hit thicker on the ball, and trust your stroke to get through the ball, the ball goes in a lot easier". Does anyone understand what he's trying to explain here? I don't quite understand.
Chris Reinhold "Frozen ball goes in easier with thicker hit?"
- Thread starter FeelDaShot
- Start date
I'll take a guess. When balls are on the rail, I know a lot of people that go for a simultaneous hit on the rail/ball. I think he is basically saying "forget the rail, go for the ball. I may be wrong as usual, but I do know Chris and that's how I interpret it.
I believe he's saying you want a full contact on the ball(ob and rail at the same time) and hit it with confidence. If you let up( common under pressure) you will catch it thin and throw it away from the pocket.
Might ask him in the comments section?
Might ask him in the comments section?
How about a perfect Rail/Ball hit?
I'm not going to watch and if I am shooting a froz-ed ball with outside spinglish then I am aiming to hit a tad thick.
How does that work? If you hit a frozen ball thick won't it drive into the rail and immediately move off the rail?
I messaged Chris and his response was: "Aim thicker on the object ball so the energy is absorbed more. That follow through helps cut the ball either way"
I guess I'm just not understanding the physics of this shot.
When I was first taught to shoot at rail shots, I was told to hit the ball and the rail at the same time. That didn’t help at all because my eyes/mind at the time interpreted that as trying to slice the edge of the object ball. But rail shots are not 90 degree cuts. I realized later the contact point is still (visually) inside the edge of the ball. I started doing a lot better embracing that I need to “hit the ball thicker” or more specifically just aim for the cut as if the rail wasn’t there at all. That pretty much accomplishes “hitting the rail and ball at the same time” but it cured me of my faulty conception of how that’s done.
Put me in that boat too. Sounds like a "feel" thing. Either way, Lil' Chris plays a nice game.
This may not be the same Lil' Chris you're thinking of. I know there's a Youtuber out there named Lil' Chris giving pool lessons. He plays pretty good too.
There are more factors involved....
Such as speed of the shot along with the angle of the cut and the spin used on the cue ball. Here is the absolute easiest way to make an object ball frozen to the rail. Of course, you might not be able to obtain the cue ball position you need, but it really does work. I do not agree with his reasoning of why it works though. He wasnt hitting the cue ball hard enough to give it any more then natrual roll at contact with object ball....
Such as speed of the shot along with the angle of the cut and the spin used on the cue ball. Here is the absolute easiest way to make an object ball frozen to the rail. Of course, you might not be able to obtain the cue ball position you need, but it really does work. I do not agree with his reasoning of why it works though. He wasnt hitting the cue ball hard enough to give it any more then natrual roll at contact with object ball....
Oops, good call. This Chris might be a Lil' betterThis may not be the same Lil' Chris you're thinking of. I know there's a Youtuber out there named Lil' Chris giving pool lessons. He plays pretty good too.
They do kinda look alike!Oops, good call. This Chris might be a Lil' better
When he talks about "getting through the ball" I think I know what he means. In this drill you are using low outiside on almost every shot. If you decelerate and let off on your swing it begins to go from a draw with spin and instead drags a little and twists away from your aim line. The result is a weaker shot which curves and hits thin, overcutting the object ball.
When you accelerate through the shot you retain your backspin the entire way, the cue ball doesn't curve away as much, and you can contact the object ball a tad thicker using that outside to help turn it in just a little.
So, in short- accelerating ball first hit with low outside. Not dragging and twisting for a simultaneous hit.
When you accelerate through the shot you retain your backspin the entire way, the cue ball doesn't curve away as much, and you can contact the object ball a tad thicker using that outside to help turn it in just a little.
So, in short- accelerating ball first hit with low outside. Not dragging and twisting for a simultaneous hit.
He's not explaining this cueball/obj. ball collision in a manner easy to understand.
I find explaining this ball collision/pocketing simpler when on table.
To explain what he's trying to say, in comprehendible words, this is what's going on.
You have a 30-degree cut shot 5mph cue ball, use this mindset when I explain the below paragraphs.
Shooting the obj ball on the rail or off, doesn't matter.
''To explain the below paragraphs, I'll try and keep it simple.
Strike the cue ball with above center ball.... Then.
When it strikes the object ball, it MUST be rolling naturally.''
As you add more ''rolling'' speed to the cue ball aiming at the Exact same obj. ball contact point....it always overcuts the ball a little more.
Your obj. ball contact point will change as cloth wears, as/dirt/hand oil get imbedded, they ALWAYS change play conditions.
Especially.... HUMIDITY with DIRT.
The contact point on your obj. ball will change less, or not at all with a dirty ball set, unless you add EXTREME cue ball speed AND spinning speed.
Your cueball has two forward speeds when struck at 5mph or any mph.
Rolling forward speed and spinning speed.
Both together will change the contact point, and you MUST strike the contact point a little thicker to compensate.
If you want a demonstration, just look me up at the next event, or visit me in CO I can give you on my home table.
bm
I believe I have heard other azbros reefer to it as gearing...the outside spinglish and glancing contact exaggerate the cut, compared to where the contact point is.
Imo, it is a HORRIBLE way to play, unless you are playing on the same table all the time.
if you watch closely most of the balls come off the rail
he must have big pockets on the table for the ball to fall
I gave the same advice recently on one of the many Facebook pool player groups.
With rail shots, a lot of players think you have to do something special with your aiming, but really you just have to hit the ob as if the cushion wasn't there. Aiming a touch thicker, more ball-first than cushion-first, works pretty well. Plus it allows you to move/manipulate the cb much easier/better.
I may be striking the rail and ob at the same time, but it feels like I'm striking the ob a hair first, if that makes any sense. I mean, the more you practice rail shots the better feel you get for em. A good player can contact the rail 1st or the ball 1st on demand, and this allows for different types of cb control.
With rail shots, a lot of players think you have to do something special with your aiming, but really you just have to hit the ob as if the cushion wasn't there. Aiming a touch thicker, more ball-first than cushion-first, works pretty well. Plus it allows you to move/manipulate the cb much easier/better.
I may be striking the rail and ob at the same time, but it feels like I'm striking the ob a hair first, if that makes any sense. I mean, the more you practice rail shots the better feel you get for em. A good player can contact the rail 1st or the ball 1st on demand, and this allows for different types of cb control.
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Thanks Buckshot. I always like hitting these shots with follow too but this yo-yo drill involves shooting them with outside draw. Obviously much harder so I'm trying to understand Chris' advice to get better at these.
Thanks TinMan, this explanation is very logical. I'm terrible at those slow twist shots where you have to account for a little masse prior to contact. I avoid them at all costs.