FUTake a hike pal. What's toxic is all those that get butthurt and will not accept data backed by both real-world use and hi-speed video. Its laughable how facts/science get all the 'mythers' panties in a wad.
FUTake a hike pal. What's toxic is all those that get butthurt and will not accept data backed by both real-world use and hi-speed video. Its laughable how facts/science get all the 'mythers' panties in a wad.
Here it is:
Enjoy!
Here it is:
Enjoy!
Good stuff Doctor.Let's try to return to mature and civil discussion and debate. (I know ... I'm dreaming.)
Does anybody have and questions or comments about the video and the results?
I can validate that. I HAVE noticed that the tall ‘milk dud’ I’m using now deflects more than the LePro that my cue originally came with.Wrong. A longer contact time creates more CB deflection. A denser/heavier tip also creates more. Sometimes the effects cancel. The worst combination is a soft tip that is dense/heavy. For more info, see the section at the bottom of the page here:
Actually, the degree of polish on the CB (and it’s construction/type) has the most influence on draw RPMs (IMHO).For draw the important thing is RPMs on the CB when it’s stopped by the OB, so more force is good.
pj
chgo
And the weight of the ladder.How many pool players does it take to screw in a light bulb?
There are a few different humorous answers to this question, depending on the context and the tone of the joke. Here are a few examples:
One pool player to screw in the light bulb, and nine others to argue about the proper technique for doing it.
Two pool players to screw in the light bulb, and a third to rack the balls while they do it.
It doesn't matter how many pool players it takes to screw in a light bulb, as long as they're all using a low deflection cue.
Three pool players to screw in the light bulb, and a fourth to take a video of it to post on social media.
Of course, these are all just jokes and not meant to be taken seriously. The actual number of pool players needed to screw in a light bulb would depend on the specifics of the situation, such as the height of the ceiling, the size of the light bulb, and the tools and equipment available.
Awesome video...I was a disbeliever. It is something I will try.Here it is:
Enjoy!
Very nice stroke ^___^
Great action with hard tip.
Have youna way to get this draw of yours on camera with 1000 fps? Would really love to see, if contact time stays the same.
(Tend to believe now, that it does but my other theory would be, that for these extreme draws you need a little different accelerated stroke
perhaps it does change the contact time.
So softer tip has more "room for error" and it's easier for beginners to draw with softer tip.
But watched a old Bustamante Pagulayan Match on video yesterday and noticed, that they were both using very hard tips and I changed to harder tip over the years. So if your stroke does support it, harder tip does seem the way to go.)
Still a big thank you to test the theory with the most extreme shots, I could come up with and getting them on video with phenolic tip. Nice to know, what is possible.
I was afraid I would miscue and pop the ball up into my ceiling when I tried the draw with my BK Rush, but nope. It was much easier for me than with the soft tip.Was anybody surprised by the power draw results? Even though the "science" and previous tests in earlier videos told me it should work, I was still honestly a little pleasantly surprised.
Good stuff Doctor.
I certainly feel like it is easier to apply more spin, without miscueing, with a softer tip than a harder tip. Is it because I can aim further from the center more confidently? Is it because it is more difficult to chalk a harder tip, so that I may have under-chalked it? Is it because when I use a hard tip, it is generally for breaking, so I'm using a faster and less controlled stroke? Or some combination of those? Or is it all in my head?
Awesome video...I was a disbeliever. It is something I will try.
Actually, the degree of polish on the CB (and it’s construction/type) has the most influence on draw RPMs (IMHO).
I wasn’t. I did a hands-on review for Inside Pool on the Stinger Break cue when it first was built (mid 2000’s, built by Jericho). My league teammate thought the tip was so hard that he wouldn’t be able to do anything except hit center ball. I handed the cue to him to try a draw shot. The cueball zinged backwards like he’s never seen before. He then started doing full table length power draw shots. He couldn’t believe it. Harder tip sounds like crap, but had more hit efficiency.Was anybody surprised by the power draw results? Even though the "science" and previous tests in earlier videos told me it should work, I was still honestly a little pleasantly surprised.
Some tables you just can't make that shot.....dirty balls dirty cloth. High humidity...It's a fairly easy shot with good conditions
Wrong. A longer contact time creates more CB deflection. A denser/heavier tip also creates more. Sometimes the effects cancel. The worst combination is a soft tip that is dense/heavy. For more info, see the section at the bottom of the page here:
All this talk about being scientific has me wondering about what I've been wondering about for a while. How was the fact that deflection is the same no matter how hard you hit the ball proven. I get the point that it's that the swerve counteracts the deflection so a softer hit seems like it's less.A fast, slick, clean, warm, and dry cloth also helps.
I certainly cleaned the CB and cloth (and let in dry) before I started filming. Every little bit helps.
I look forward to seeing or hearing about what you find with the range of tip hardness you have.