Best tip for diamond bar boxes

I'm curious about the overall skill level of the OP. No disrespect at all but I'm thinking a general skill level might invite more helpful advice.
 
...tip hardness has nothing to do with cue ball speed.
I agree changing tips for different tables is silly, but to pick a nit...

With the same stroke speed: harder tips drive the CB a little faster; softer tips drive the CB a little slower.

pj
chgo
 
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its not the tip stupid.

listen to all of those people that know what they are talking about. that buy special chalk, special shafts so the cueball goes where they want when they hit where they dont want. and get their weight bolt adjusted. and worry about whether their wrap is pressed or not.
or how the cue should be put in the case. and what scuffer is best. and and all other such important things that make you play better.
 
The thing is this cloth is so damn fast compared to 860 which I've played on all my life. Add in fast diamond rails that are boinging a little from humidity and a small table and I just tend to overhit anything I try to finesse. Its really irritating.
When playing on some diamond bar boxes I have speed control issues but others I do not. The ones with the 860 I am fine. The ones with the 3030 I constantly overrun positions.

When on a 9 footer (brunswick or diamond) or 860 diamond bb I use a thinner predator victory medium (medium-hard). When on the 3030 diamond bar boxes I've been using a kamui black soft.

There is a major difference between my speed control on the 3030 between both tips. With the medium-hard tip I constantly overrun positions and lose games because of it. When I switch shafts to the soft tip my speed becomes much better but overrunning positions is still a bit of a problem. The main difference being my mistakes are more recoverable with the softer tip because when I overrun the results don' seem to be fatal as is the case with the harder tip where I completely butcher the position.

Anyways, the question is does anyone else have similar problems when switching between tables with vastly different speeds? And if so does changing tips help you as well?

Also, another question. Should I try a super-soft tip to see if I get even better results since the kamui black soft seems to help quite a bit? I only have 2 shafts and am a little reluctant to change the tip because I get alright results with the soft on the 3030 but my speed still leaves more room to be desired because on the 860 I actually have what I consider to be good speed.

Its probably worth noting that on the 9 foot diamonds w/ 3030 I play with the medium-hard tip and my speed is decent.
2 things, first, stop bringing your 9ft stroke to a 7ft table, second, choke up on your long stroke a little bit, that'll take some of the speed out!
 
its not the tip stupid.

listen to all of those people that know what they are talking about. that buy special chalk, special shafts so the cueball goes where they want when they hit where they dont want. and get their weight bolt adjusted. and worry about whether their wrap is pressed or not.
or how the cue should be put in the case. and what scuffer is best. and and all other such important things that make you play better.
I agree with everything you said except the tip on different conditions. There is no question it helps me some to have a soft tip on smaller, fast conditions.
 
Just came across this, have not read but of course I have an opinion ready. Speed and accuracy must be independent of each other. The only way I know to develop this trait is to work through and memorize the respective ranges of cling/throw/Klingon throw/stroke distortion and anything you adjust for when you play on tough tables.
THEN, speed becomes a function of rolling the ball at the required speed.
 
Just came across this, have not read but of course I have an opinion ready. Speed and accuracy must be independent of each other. The only way I know to develop this trait is to work through and memorize the respective ranges of cling/throw/Klingon throw/stroke distortion and anything you adjust for when you play on tough tables.
THEN, speed becomes a function of rolling the ball at the required speed.
Missing the balls is not a problem. I have throw and swerve down. Its keeping good control of the cueball.
 
Next time try a Kamui Black Clear in Super Soft. I put it on 4 of the 6 cues in my case.
The other 2 cues use original Moori tips the cue maker selected since I was undecided.
You might also consider using a nickel tip shape if you now use a dime shaped cue tip.
 
When a table is playing super fast, I just don't hit the ball as hard…
This makes way to much sense. You actually expect people to adjust to the conditions on different tables?? This is blasphemy every table in the world should be exactly the same!

I think the OP should use an assortment of screw on interchangeable tips for every different table he encounters. That should fix his problem.
 
Missing the balls is not a problem. I have throw and swerve down. Its keeping good control of the cueball.
I'm saying accuracy and speed need to be independent. Granted they are physically linked but that's the problem with change-ups - even if it's only from one table to another. People - even pros and champs blow some shots because they aren't clear on the speed/accuracy relationship. The tendencies are miss the shot for a perfect landing or overun the landing by cinching the ball.
That you overhit shots on the faster table means only a couple general things to me. You are unable to focus on good speed while shooting straight, or you don't stroke well at lower speed. If it's the latter, copy the Gorst/Melling delivery; see if that helps.
 
I have 6 different shafts for 3 different cues.
There is a mix o fsolid and layered tips on them and I cant tell any difference in how they play.
I think it's Triangles,Le Pros,a Sniper and an ultra skin.
Then either you are garbage at pool or that 1/50 player that is immune to conditions.

There’s condition heavy players and others where conditions don’t affect them at all. Consider yourself lucky because it’s a nightmare for some of us showing up to what feels like a completely different game every time a new tournament comes along.

I had a long form match on a 9 foot gold crown with a red circle cueball then had to go gamble on a valley with a purple panther cueball that had brand new cloth, then had a tournament on 7 foot Diamonds with a measleball…then went and played one pocket back on the 9 foot brunswicks…

Madness. Absolute ridiculous chaos. It’s like if the NBA players showed up each night and asked if they’re playing with a rubber ball or a leather/composite ball and what height the rim is going to be tonight….

You think that might affect their play!?
 
Then either you are garbage at pool or that 1/50 player that is immune to conditions.

There’s condition heavy players and others where conditions don’t affect them at all. Consider yourself lucky because it’s a nightmare for some of us showing up to what feels like a completely different game every time a new tournament comes along.

I had a long form match on a 9 foot gold crown with a red circle cueball then had to go gamble on a valley with a purple panther cueball that had brand new cloth, then had a tournament on 7 foot Diamonds with a measleball…then went and played one pocket back on the 9 foot brunswicks…

Madness. Absolute ridiculous chaos. It’s like if the NBA players showed up each night and asked if they’re playing with a rubber ball or a leather/composite ball and what height the rim is going to be tonight….

You think that might affect their play!?
No I'm not garbage at pool I have no official Fargo but it's been estimated at 600 or so and I'm well past my prime.
I'm just one of those players that don't feel a lot of difference in tips or cues.
 
No I'm not garbage at pool I have no official Fargo but it's been estimated at 600 or so and I'm well past my prime.
I'm just one of those players that don't feel a lot of difference in tips or cues.


For over ten years I gambled nightly playing off the wall. Usually with a badly warped stick as they tended to have better tips and shaft areas that didn't get splinters in my hands.

Went away for a few decades doing the family thing. When I came back I got cues with all the bells and whistles. No denying, I am a hothouse player now and I have difficulty adapting to anything different.

I beat top road players with something off the wall and I can lose to some pretty weak players today with my two piece hinged cue and all the toys. Sometimes just for fun I stick my brad tool and a tiny square of sandpaper in my watch pocket like old days and leave the case that weighs more than my tool box for my car at home. There is a real sense of freedom just grabbing something off the wall and playing.

Hu
 
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