Aluminum radial pin?

Fwiw G10 radial is known to slip.
And can easily cross thread wood and create new threads.
G10 is also abrasive. They eat out wood.
I use inserts if I have to use G10 3/8 11.
 
Is that because the pin gets slightly bent and when screwing it on the creaking is the pin getting straightened back?
My best guess is because it doesn't hold epoxy that well, and if the wood shrinks back at all from the large locator barrel, it creates a gap that can end up making a little bit of noise.
G10 glues up REALLY well, and I've never seen one creak.
 
I had a cue with a partly aluminum joint and it seemed like it deformed. The joint got tighter and tighter with use. Maybe the wrong alloy was used.
 
I've had my Jacoby for a couple years but I've always liked a more rear weighted player. So I took my cue up to Tiger and I'm having them switch the pin from a stainless steel to an aluminum radial pin, it'll remove an ounce. I was originally gonna go with a g10 but switched it up. I honestly don't know anything about aluminum radial pins, anyone have any info or experience with them? Negative or positive.
As a maker who has experimented with a lot, I would go with the g10 if you want to reduce weight. It won't be able to bend like aluminum will if it hits something.

Jaden
 
I had a cue with a partly aluminum joint and it seemed like it deformed. The joint got tighter and tighter with use. Maybe the wrong alloy was used.
One problem with aluminum is when they use an aluminum pin and an aluminum insert. There was a pretty famous jump cue that used it and if it screws on too tight, it welds together and doesn't want to come apart.

Jaden
 
I don't think there's a player in the world that could tell the difference between an aluminum or G10 pin installed in the same cue.
I've replaced aluminum pins that eventually started making a creaking noise. I've never seen that happen with a G10.
But have you had aluminum pins snap off flush at the butt without abuse? G10 IMO is subject to aging like other man made materials and it happens relatively fast much like many plastics.
 
Not all aluminum (1000 to 8000 series) is created equal. Wear resistant, high temp applications, corrosion resistant, hardness scale, ductile, heat treatable are some of the differences depending on the end use. For a joint pin you have much to choose from before deciding and would be an interesting experiment. I would say pure aluminum would be too soft.
 
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What is your preferred pin material? Just good ol stainless?
“Good ol Stainless”... stainless steel comes in many different grades too. I’m guessing that most cue makers don’t don’t scrutinize this and just order stainless joint pins and who knows exactly what kind of stainless it really is? There is quite a range in regards to hardness when it comes to different grades. All much harder than say brass so in the grand scheme of things maybe it doesn’t matter??? Maybe maybe not? I personally think every little thing can make a difference to the discerning pro level player.
 
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“Good ol Stainless”... stainless steel comes in many different grades too. I’m guessing that most cue makers don’t don’t scrutinize this and just order stainless joint pins and who knows exactly what kind of stainless it really is? There is quite a range in regards to hardness when it comes to different grades. All much harder than say brass so in the grand scheme of things maybe it doesn’t matter??? Maybe maybe not? I personally think every little thing can make a difference to the discerning pro level player.
Please , pros don't care what metal grade their joint screw is .
 
Not all aluminum (1000 to 8000 series) is created equal. Wear resistant, high temp applications, corrosion resistant, hardness scale, ductile, heat treatable are some of the differences depending on the end use. For a joint pin you have much to choose from before deciding and would be an interesting experiment. I would say pure aluminum would be too soft.
Good point, when I go back I'll ask the owner what type of aluminum it is.
 
Please , pros don't care what metal grade their joint screw is .
I didn’t say they cared. I don’t think pool players know very much about metallurgy. I said I think every little thing can make a difference to the discerning pro level player. Understand what I’m saying… to me the hardness a bowling ball would absolutely make no difference because I suck at bowling. To a pro level bowler the nuances make a difference even if he doesn’t know how the ball was made. A joint pin made with a Rockwell hardness anywhere between 70-110… I’d bet money there’s a difference that the average pool player could not tell.
 
I didn’t say they cared. I don’t think pool players know very much about metallurgy. I said I think every little thing can make a difference to the discerning pro level player. Understand what I’m saying… to me the hardness a a bowling ball would absolutely make no difference because I suck at bowling. To a pro level bowler the nuances make a difference even if he doesn’t know how the ball was made. A joint pin made with a Rockwell hardness anywhere between 70-110… I’d bet money there’s a difference that the average pool player could not tell.
Please.
Efren Reyes or SVB can't tell if the joint screw is brass or damascus .
 
Please.
Efren Reyes or SVB can't tell if the joint screw is brass or damascus .
You are still missing my point. They may not be able to tell as you said if the joint is brass or damascus but they can tell what they like Or don’t like. If you are a cue maker I’d hope you know there is a difference in the hit with the use of different materials.
 
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