8 Ball Break - Hitting the 2nd Ball

I use inside draw.
Me too (though I hate playing 8 ball). Tips in the video re: checking the rack, are rather irrelevant in a social setting (considered rude). Slug racks are common, and you just live with it. On a 9 footer, english that brings you back into the pack can leave you stuck if the rack is loose.
 
might work on a toy bar box, not on a real pool table ;)
You might end up making a ball but more clusters and a bad spread with little chance of running out.
I will drop a bit of wisdom your way.

There is not much of a difference between a good head ball break and a bad one.

The good one makes a ball, the bad one doesn't. Either you run out of your opponent does.

Now a good 2nd ball break not only makes a ball, but opens the table up for an easy runout.

A bad 2nd ball break creates a problem for your opponent, not a roadmap run.

Which one would you rather employ as a break strategy?
 
So, it might be good to use against a run-out player to slow them down?
This used to be the "common knowledge." I used it all the time. Anymore I don't believe it. Generally a run out player has more table knowledge than someone who can't run out. This means, while you might slow them down a bit and maybe get a turn at the table, they still break clusters better than you and have offensive firepower to get out. A smart player, which most good players are anymore will just out move you until the time is right.

Now, if you were playing a really dumb and purely offensive player with no safety knowledge, it might help you beat them. But the truth is that anymore unless you're playing in some bar league you'll not see a player like that. Players with the skill to run a rack mostly have all their ducks in a row nowadays. 2 Decades ago sure, cluster the balls. Now the bastards have gotten smarter. :ROFLMAO:

If you're playing a similar level player that you are and you can't run more than 4 balls, it might favor you but even that is questionable if you can't break clusters.

I think at best it's situational advice. I see this all the time in our town leagues: The older ladies and lesser skilled casual players will do second ball break. It extends the innings but they still get tromped into the ground by better players. The absolute worst matches are between two lesser skilled players, neither of which can deal with clusters, yet they insist on second ball breaks. It makes a 10+ inning match where you might as well flip a coin.

The best 8 ball I've seen lately is the Ultimate Pool USA format. You have to get a 3 point break. A combination of made balls or balls past the center line of the table. It gets rid of slow play, and when you're on a shot clock and a match clock and might be spotting 4-5 games you literally don't have time to play pitty-pat pool. You have to either run out or have a plan. I love 1P but on a weeknight league I don't want to be there till 2AM. There's not near as much just bunting balls around and buying time, because time is one thing you don't have. The funniest part is if you do an illegal break (doesn't meet the 3 point rule) you lose the break and your opponent breaks. Sometimes they too do an illegal break so you get it back. But... it's alternate break, if you lose your break and they break that rack legally, they still get to break on the next rack. It sounds nuts but it really does improve the game, gives you a bit more urgency which is something pool leagues can lack.
 
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Me too (though I hate playing 8 ball). Tips in the video re: checking the rack, are rather irrelevant in a social setting (considered rude). Slug racks are common, and you just live with it. On a 9 footer, english that brings you back into the pack can leave you stuck if the rack is loose.
I check racks but never say anything. You can glance at a rack and see most of what you need to see. If I'm playing in a league that's more social I'll do the ultimate faux pas. I'll pop break it head on with just enough speed to stick the CB to the 1B. It's loud but nothing much happens. I'll then look at the table and say "Huh, that rack seemed funny." 😂 Might be a dick move but I find it amusing, and generally after that they will rack tighter. Even league players who are known for giving slug racks usually won't repeat the offense if you say it loud enough for the spectators to hear. 😁
 
I will drop a bit of wisdom your way.

There is not much of a difference between a good head ball break and a bad one.

The good one makes a ball, the bad one doesn't. Either you run out of your opponent does.

Now a good 2nd ball break not only makes a ball, but opens the table up for an easy runout.

A bad 2nd ball break creates a problem for your opponent, not a roadmap run.

Which one would you rather employ as a break strategy?
again, maybe on a toy bar box
 
Me too (though I hate playing 8 ball). Tips in the video re: checking the rack, are rather irrelevant in a social setting (considered rude). Slug racks are common, and you just live with it. On a 9 footer, english that brings you back into the pack can leave you stuck if the rack is loose.

I watch the rack as the triangle is lifted. A lose or slugged rack gets hit behind the head ball, whereas a tight rack gets hit on head ball 1 diamond off the side rail and 1 diamond off the end rail shooting at the crease between 2nd and 3rd ball at the back of the rack.
 
Hey guys, just had a question for those of you who are proponents of hitting the 2nd ball on your 8 ball break (either ball behind the head ball).

What english/spin do you like to use when using this break? I've heard just draw, low inside, and low outside from several different sources. It's very difficult to make a ball on the break where I play due to the balls never being cleaned. Hitting the head ball with a power break either doesn't produce much spread or the balls just never seem to make a line towards any pockets. Most of the players that have success on the break tend to use the 2nd ball break.

I observed one player who had great results drawing the cue ball off the 2nd ball, into the rail, then back into the stack. He would repeatedly make between 2-3 balls with either a wide open or fairly open layout after. I asked him how he was hitting the break and he responded with low inside. I tried the break myself but my cue ball would spin off the side rail and behind the rack rather than back into it. Any advice on how I can duplicate his break? Thanks in advance for the help!
I recommend using a dead center hit on the 2nd ball, hitting as much ball as possible. If done correctly it will leave the cue ball in the center of the table, if it isn’t kissed out by an object ball. It’s very effective and you will have a higher percentage of 8 balls on the snap.

Good luck!
 
FYI, the 2nd ball break is covered in fairly good detail on the 8-ball break resource page. Check it out.

Whether you use a touch of backspin or sidespin depends on how square you hit the 2nd ball. I like to hit it fairly square with stun (no top or bottom spin), with no sidespin, to send the CB straight across the table back into the rack area. This gives the best chance to not scratch, to break out any balls remaining in the rack area, and to get a shot after the break (usually on the bottom half of the table).

Regards,
Dave
Great post, I was taught to break 8 Ball using the exact same technique you described above by St. Louis Louie Robert’s back in the 1970s. It’s very effective with a stun or center ball hit.

Thanks for sharing, I hope these listen to you!!👍👍👍👍👍
 
Hey guys, just had a question for those of you who are proponents of hitting the 2nd ball on your 8 ball break (either ball behind the head ball).

What english/spin do you like to use when using this break? I've heard just draw, low inside, and low outside from several different sources. It's very difficult to make a ball on the break where I play due to the balls never being cleaned. Hitting the head ball with a power break either doesn't produce much spread or the balls just never seem to make a line towards any pockets. Most of the players that have success on the break tend to use the 2nd ball break.

I observed one player who had great results drawing the cue ball off the 2nd ball, into the rail, then back into the stack. He would repeatedly make between 2-3 balls with either a wide open or fairly open layout after. I asked him how he was hitting the break and he responded with low inside. I tried the break myself but my cue ball would spin off the side rail and behind the rack rather than back into it. Any advice on how I can duplicate his break? Thanks in advance for the help!
You didn't ask me but I don't recommend it, ever.
 
The best 8 ball I've seen lately is the Ultimate Pool USA format.

...where (in the tournaments I've seen), the best players mostly use a 2nd ball break. One guy (British, I forget who) had it dialed in and played to make the other 2nd row ball (not the one he hit) cross-side. He was very consistent w/it. Broke with his bridge hand on the pocket. I think it was the Boston tournament, it's somewhere on YouTube.
 
FYI, the 2nd ball break is covered in fairly good detail on the 8-ball break resource page. Check it out.

Whether you use a touch of backspin or sidespin depends on how square you hit the 2nd ball. I like to hit it fairly square with stun (no top or bottom spin), with no sidespin, to send the CB straight across the table back into the rack area. This gives the best chance to not scratch, to break out any balls remaining in the rack area, and to get a shot after the break (usually on the bottom half of the table).
Great post, I was taught to break 8 Ball using the exact same technique you described above by St. Louis Louie Robert’s back in the 1970s. It’s very effective with a stun or center ball hit.

Thanks for sharing, I hope these listen to you!!👍👍👍👍👍

Here another pertinent quote from the 8-ball break resource page:

If bridging from the side rail using a rail bridge, which is recommended, place the CB as far from the rail as possible to get the cue more level while creating the desired bridge/stroke length (longer is better if you can control it). With the CB farther from the side rail, the more-level cue lets you use more speed without risking jumping the CB off the table. You can bridge from the table or end rail instead to get the cue even more level, but more speed will be required to deliver the same energy into the rack, and the CB will retain more speed after the hit. The 2nd ball target will be also smaller, making a square hit more difficult.
 
Here another pertinent quote from the 8-ball break resource page:

If bridging from the side rail using a rail bridge, which is recommended, place the CB as far from the rail as possible to get the cue more level while creating the desired bridge/stroke length (longer is better if you can control it). With the CB farther from the side rail, the more-level cue lets you use more speed without risking jumping the CB off the table. You can bridge from the table or end rail instead to get the cue even more level, but more speed will be required to deliver the same energy into the rack, and the CB will retain more speed after the hit. The 2nd ball target will be also smaller, making a square hit more difficult.
Breaking from the side rail, is exactly how I was taught.

Thanks for your reply.
 
Here another pertinent quote from the 8-ball break resource page:

If bridging from the side rail using a rail bridge, which is recommended, place the CB as far from the rail as possible to get the cue more level while creating the desired bridge/stroke length (longer is better if you can control it). With the CB farther from the side rail, the more-level cue lets you use more speed without risking jumping the CB off the table. You can bridge from the table or end rail instead to get the cue even more level, but more speed will be required to deliver the same energy into the rack, and the CB will retain more speed after the hit. The 2nd ball target will be also smaller, making a square hit more difficult.
Very true, it's why....

I created my target using ball contact points.
Right handed player... breaking 8 ball second ball hit.
I aim at the inside edge of the second ball.
I've found I can't hit em any other way more square than there, whitey wants to track back/to the rack Quickly.
 
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...where (in the tournaments I've seen), the best players mostly use a 2nd ball break. One guy (British, I forget who) had it dialed in and played to make the other 2nd row ball (not the one he hit) cross-side. He was very consistent w/it. Broke with his bridge hand on the pocket. I think it was the Boston tournament, it's somewhere on YouTube.
A few examples from one match; the other guy :cool: used the same break (he broke the first game actually):
 
might work on a toy bar box, not on a real pool table ;)
You might end up making a ball but more clusters and a bad spread with little chance of running out.
good
i want the incoming playing to not be able to run out, make 5 balls and give over control of the table

works like a charm (y)(y)(y)
and people rush to hand over control 9/10
 
might work on a toy bar box, not on a real pool table ;)
You might end up making a ball but more clusters and a bad spread with little chance of running out.
I played 15 years of 8 ball on 9' tables. Second ball break worked fine for me. Ran out plenty of racks.
 
I played 15 years of 8 ball on 9' tables. Second ball break worked fine for me. Ran out plenty of racks.
good for you
I guess that's why in most pros event they go for the head ball, maybe you know something that they don't...
 
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