Can you get a fair idea on the quality of a pool cue shaft, just from a few pics alone?

vintagecollectibles831

Well-known member
Okay, I know this is a dumb question, but I need help with opinions on this shaft, if possible.

Could is be garbage quality, for example?

Or, does it appear to be a good quality shaft?

The pics might not even be good enough to get any good opinions, but they are not my pics.

Oh, and it is also from an unknown maker. Seller does not know who made it.

I really need a shaft though, and this would would fit perfect, other then the ringwork being mismatched.

It is said to be 3/8x11, and approximately 3.5oz, and the Diameter would fit perfect for what I need.

I just do not know if it is garbage, or good quality, or what.

Thanks for any thoughts.
 

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I would like to hear others opinions, but mine would be this:

If the tip diameter is large enough and the price is low enough, I can get it tapered to what I prefer.

There are a lot of knockoff SW cues out there that would be 3/8-11. Weight of the shaft would be a good way to know you are not getting cheap wood.

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First, the only way to know for sure if you will like the way a cue or a shaft will play is to play with it, and even then you often won't truly know how well it meets your preferences until you play with it for a few days/some number of hours. The only real arguable exception to this is if a shaft comes from a maker whose hit you love, and where that maker is known for making cues that all hit exactly alike (many cue maker's shafts only hit somewhat similarly but not exactly alike).

Second, when it comes to maple shafts from most any half reputable custom or production cue manufacturer, there really aren't inherently "garbage" shafts or "great" shafts, and the belief to the contrary is mostly myth. Due to people's differing personal preferences there are shafts that are going to be "garbage" for you specifically, simply because they don't meet your specific personal preferences, but that same shaft is going to be the holy grail for the next guy, and vice versa. So you have to evaluate a shaft based on what you know about your own personal preferences, and that is very hard to do with pictures but you can get some rough ideas sometimes.

Look at the diameter at the ferrule (in cases where the seller doesn't know and can't measure it for you). In pictures you may not be able to tell the difference between 11.9 and 12.1mm shafts, but at minimum you can see if a shaft is skinny, fat, or somewhere in between. If you like 11.9mm shafts, and you see an obviously fat shaft in the picture, you almost certainly aren't going to like it.

90+% of the way a shaft hits/plays is due to its taper, and I'm probably being conservative. You can't look at a taper and know for sure if you will love it, but sometimes you can tell enough to be able to know when you almost certainly won't like it. An example is if you know you like a really stiff hitting cue, and what you see in the pictures shows a shaft that grows very gradually and has a really long pro taper, you will almost certainly not like that shaft. Or if you like a hit that has a bit more flexibility and the type of feel that comes with that, and you see a taper that gets fat quickly, and is closer to looking conical, then you are almost certain to hate that shaft. I can tell the shaft in your pictures has a fairly thick taper which grows pretty quickly and will hit on the stiffer side, so I can know that if you don't like stiffer hitting cues you are almost certain to hate it. But for someone who likes stiffer hitting cues, you can't tell enough to know for sure if you will like this one or not as it may end up being a bit too stiff or still not quite stiff enough or otherwise not quite having the right hit for your preference.

For the people who believe that wood with a high number of (tightly spaced) growth rings gives a better hit, then you can sometimes see the growth rings well enough in the pictures to have an idea how tightly spaced they are. In this case you can indeed see them well enough, and they are fairly tightly spaced here.

In short, the only way to know if you will like a shaft is to play with it, and there aren't any exceptions to that, but you are often able to fairly accurately rule out shafts that aren't anywhere close to your preferences just by looking at pictures.
 
Take a step back- The features of any plain maple shaft include the following:

Weight, Straightness, Smoothness ( lack of dents/nicks) , tip diameter, shaft taper, Ferrule type and material, shaft tip hardness rating.

IMO- ALL of the above features contribute to the actual feeling of the playability in any given shaft.

The individual playing experience of any one person will dictate how much any of these shaft defining factors affects your thoughts on a shaft.

The more playing experience one accrues, usually the more specific they can become as to how each component of a shaft matters to them.

My ideal maple shafts are: 3.6 to 4 ounces, very straight, very smooth, 12.7 tip diameter, 14 to 16 inch pro taper, ivory ferrule, medium soft tip hardness.

A shaft photo alone will tell me very little about how a shaft fits my desires, a photo plus an honest detailed ( as above) shaft description, with specs , will help me a lot in deciding on a shaft, but nothing substitutes for in person trial on any given shaft.
 
Why not custom order a shaft that will fit your cue from a cue maker that you like/trust?
If it's about the time it takes to make the shaft and you need something fast, and this shaft is straight ans cheap then go for it as temp. shaft until you can get what you really need/want.
 
Honestly, if you buy from a production maker or distributor you are buying from pictures anyway, and it typically isn't even pics of the shaft you get. It's just a representative picture.

Typically, you are trusting the reputation of the maker and/or seller.

At least on eBay etc you can get detailed pics of the actual shaft.

You don't really know until it is in your hands. I have had pretty good "luck". YMMV

I have bought a few shafts from AZB sellers based on their word and pictures. I have yet to be disappointed.
 
Why not custom order a shaft that will fit your cue from a cue maker that you like/trust?
If it's about the time it takes to make the shaft and you need something fast, and this shaft is straight ans cheap then go for it as temp. shaft until you can get what you really need/want.
Justin is not spending ~$200 on a shaft, even if it would provide a top shelf item in top condition.

He's concerned with bargains, a purchasing perspective that comes with its own negatives.

I'm the same way about cars, I guess
 
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