How Do You Get Out Here?
- Thread starter DrCue'sProtege
- Start date
Yup. Doable. Corey Deuel is also on you tube doing it. Crossed my mind as I thought about the shot but I've tried that several times and can't get it to stay off the first rail. Not an option for me.
Only two.
The cut it the side coming 4 around is a natural scratch, speed control shot, I'd take that shot on a 9', but not a 7'.
7'...... I'd come off the long rail to the bottom rail and out to the middle.
To go short for the 9 if it sits a diamond or more out from the pocket is tough though, cb always wants to go long. Also, that 8 has to be struck thinly and I think it.is far from the side pocket for a thin slice.
Im side pocket retarded though.
Imma gonna say something you pool players don't want to hear: you don't need side spin.
Draw into center of long rail win no English and know you're shooting that 9 from somewhere like the foot spot.
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Sheeeeeat! One can pretty easily go 5 rails to the lower R corner on a billiard table.
Don’t like much side spin on these shots either, just have a tip off first rail. I found the speed and weight of ball perform better if you have to go a few rails as long as it’s a pretty natural route
You got it figured out then.
Like Bill said, drawing into the corner with a lot of spin wants to scratch (or hit a side pocket point for maximum thrills).
No. There is too much cut angle to avoid hitting the upper side rail immediately. Here is the ChalkySticks diagram for reference. ( Remember -- the balls on CS are sized too large for a 9-foot table.)
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
This is what I was thinking too. When the spin hits the 3rd rail it opens the angle/checks it and sends it on it's merry way.
I just set up the shot on my table (didn't shoot). I really think this diagramed version is possible, now that I'm standing at the table. The 8 may have to be a bit fuller and closer to the rail though. This shot is super common in 3 Cushion.
I carefully marked the table with donuts and I'll try the shots tomorrow. I did this at midnight, so was too late to bang the balls tonight. I'll have a video tomorrow and try the various shots in the thread. I'm trying my 3 shots first, of course
I carefully marked the table with donuts and I'll try the shots tomorrow. I did this at midnight, so was too late to bang the balls tonight. I'll have a video tomorrow and try the various shots in the thread. I'm trying my 3 shots first, of course
Hydraulic shot.I just set up the shot on my table (didn't shoot). I really think this diagramed version is possible, now that I'm standing at the table. The 8 may have to be a bit fuller and closer to the rail though. This shot is super common in 3 Cushion.
View attachment 832595
I carefully marked the table with donuts and I'll try the shots tomorrow. I did this at midnight, so was too late to bang the balls tonight. I'll have a video tomorrow and try the various shots in the thread. I'm trying my 3 shots first, of course
View attachment 832596
I tried all the options in this thread. Nothing came remotely close to the position this option got. It took me 20 min of practice to get it (that time is including trying the other options), but once I did, I got perfect postion 9 out of 11 times. These last 11 trials are without edit, just skipping the setup time between shots. The key is to follow through super good so the CB arcs. It will work out great with a hair inside or a hair of outside, as long as the follow through is a 10/10. Cloth is Simonis 860 installed in 2012. CB is @nataddrho DigiBall. Video is 1 min 40 sec long.
The CB was very helpful in nailing down the shot. I was looking at the screen after each shot and seeing how I hit it. That's how I figured out both inside and outside work, depending on how much arc the CB gets.
The CB was very helpful in nailing down the shot. I was looking at the screen after each shot and seeing how I hit it. That's how I figured out both inside and outside work, depending on how much arc the CB gets.
Here is my setup. I copied DCP's diagram as closely as I could.
I just tried the setup on my carom table but I put pretty much Max Draw and just a hair of Right and basically got the same pattern/path you got on most of those attempts. The difference IMO between your attempts and mine is draw doesn't take as much cue tip speed as with follow.
It will surprise some, what can be done with the CB on a thin hit and straight draw or maybe just favoring right or left spin.
The 1st and 3rd shot is what I'm talking about. Thin hit, Max draw. It may not be obvious but he can't see the short rail in the corner, so has to go thin so the 1st rail is further down table for the short rail to become available.
The second shot is drawing the CB off the rail after a thin OB hit.
Here is the entire group of shots (all shots mentioned in this thread that I remembered when I set it up and video'd it). Edited to remove all dead space, and the shots are labeled. Some of them were quite interesting where the cb can end up. Shot 10 was my ah-ha moment for the force follow version that I did at the end of the video.
Shots tried: Force follow, double the first rail reverse (not possible), natural 3 rails to mid table, natural 3 rails to the short side, reverse 4 rails (very difficult, not a good result), and force follow again.
Shots tried: Force follow, double the first rail reverse (not possible), natural 3 rails to mid table, natural 3 rails to the short side, reverse 4 rails (very difficult, not a good result), and force follow again.
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I want to add, I just went to the table (no video) and moved the OB about .5" fuller. From that position, the 3 rails natural path can be way longer, and get a really nice shot on the 9. In fact, the CB can be crept so far down the first rail that I actually scratched a couple times (with draw outside, not with force follow).
This is all to say that fractions of an inch matter when setting up a shot, and its almost impossible to get the exact layout from one table to another.
This is all to say that fractions of an inch matter when setting up a shot, and its almost impossible to get the exact layout from one table to another.
And ChalkySticks is a bad tool for diagramming because the balls are not to scale for a 9-foot table. The price is good, though.
Yes, correct. I spent a lot of time years back trying to find one that was a true 9' table, even emailed the developers to fix. Some of them based it on real table sizes (but not 9'), some were just random pixel sizes of the balls relative to the table. It was a needle in a haystack.
Event Dr Dave's stuff is not correct, he's on an 8' table from memory.