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Just for the heck of it try warming up the bottle by sticking it in a pan of hot water. It won't hurt the chemical properties of the hardener and the color might disappear. I learned about this cure from a Canadian epoxy manufacturer who recommended if for his hardener.

Well built and well maintained furniture from 200+ years ago doesn't come apart on its own and the glues don't fail. It takes a lack of care on some scale, be it too humid, too dry, too hot, physical abuse or something else, to produce the sort of glue failure seen on the OP's cue. If a...

For 10 years I have had an osage orange board in the dirt under my shop air conditioner condensate drip. It has held up very well and I expect it to continue to do so for many more years. The color has gone from a weak yellow to light brown to black and muddy but it blends in well with its...

I've been staining forearms with veneered points off and on for a very long time and the most important thing is to have a black veneer on the outside of the points, then the right brush, the right stain, good light, tons of patience, a steady hand, a solid work surface and paper towels at the...

I've seen .080 tooth 10" blades but their quality of cut was poor, .090 is the thinnest decent one I've used with a clean kerf.

OP, Maybe the guy just wanted to do something he enjoys, What business is it of yours? Buzz off punk!

K, You need to clean up your PM folder.

You can bore out the front and glue in a long, maple dowel that has glue relief slots cut in the sides of the dowel using the West system epoxy thickened with Cab-o-sil. Fully coat the inside of the hole in the front as well as the dowel itself then assemble these pieces making sure that the...

! do, but so do a lot of other guys. Your question is a little open ended.

As long as the cuemaker is using truly seasoned ivory, doesn't heat it up when working with it and you don't subject it to rapid temperature changes, you've done all you can do. After that it is chance. I put my ivory butt caps over at least a 1" sleeve and occasionally a 1.1" sleeve of aegis...

Babe Cranfield used to run rack after rack of wing shots. They're not that hard as long as you're in stroke.

The three rails and out is easy with minimal practice and there is very little chance that any balls will get in the way of the cue ball until it is off the third rail and up the table. One rail and up the table has a higher chance of the cue ball getting kissed.

I used the Uni-Loc screws for years then finally came to the conclusion that they only added my cost. As long as your machining is good any screw will work. Buying threaded rod is the cheapest and allows changing weights as mentioned but you can also order all thread studs to your size for...

Just remember that copper is a really soft metal and color change from raw polished copper to darker is inevitable, even under the finish.

As long as you made your called shot, anything else that goes counts as a point. You rack all 15 balls and the cue ball remains where it was except if it is in the rack in which case it goes behind the head string. The usual name for the last shot you took is Oops, or something a little more...

The last two sentences listed above are as complete an answer as anyone can offer and it has been that way since the 1950's. Today, there are hundreds of other things to do with your time including just about everything we do.

I saw the same thing. Actually it isn't a bad layout. Minimum cue ball movement. The only potential problem would be the 6 and the 7?

Is that really 35,000 lbs. That's a $700,000 burl.

Ornamentation doesn't change weight enough to notice. I've made cues with chisels and a wood lathe and the shafts are still straight 25 years later.

Yep, there is a 5 billion dollar loss but it isn't because of the post office. It is a requirement that congress decided to impose on the PO that they had to fully fund their retirees medical plans in advance so they have to come up with an extra 7 billion dollars a year to put into an account...