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If the cue stays together you're all set.

I have a cocobolo ivory jointed Hoppe that needs another set of finishing coats,

Put the cue in the case, the case in the box and ship it. It'll be fine. I've shipped about a thousand cues over 20 years and the only problem I ever had was a special, very thin walled ferrule that cracked. I just shipped 7 cues in a case in a box and never gave it a second thought.

I think you should start at the beginning before just trying stuff with your lathe and its tools/parts. If the lathe can work on metal and wood, it can certainly tear you apart and the first clue you will have is when the deed is done. As mentioned, google is a good place to find things out.

Yes, but some of it might not be right. As far as balancing on Kamuui chalk, you're alright as long as you have the right side up and the north face, facing SSW at 2 pm.

After years of careful measuring with a state of the art laser interferometer calibrated to offset the most recent sunspot flare it has been determined that cues perform optimally if the observed motion change when a cue, rotated along its Z axis at a rate changing from 2 rpm to 3.725 rpm over...

Slow play.

What is centrfigual? According to my trained baboons, no such word exists. I question the OP's motives among other things. Maybe he's not from around here. Or there, for that matter.

Sure you can but since it costs about 5 to 10 cents extra for a dowel why would you If you could do 1 square every 30 seconds total time, you'd be saving $6.00 to $12 an hour not counting anything else. One every three minutes, a more likely pace, would be a whole dollar or two an hour saved...

I start with an acceptable 1" dowel, find the straight grain line and drill centers. The straight grain line can be found on the quartered faces of the dowel. Make the end with the most offset the ferrule end.

I try to maintain my normal double taper ans diameters but if a customer wants something different for a specific reason I would rather have it be me making the changes than someone else he takes the cue to. There are things I won't do because they would affect the playability too much. Any...

Gorilla glue will work but as a poster mentioned it is a foam and can't transmit vibration or feel as cleanly as a solid such as epoxy. Epoxy needs a gap of about .005" which allows a core that can fit through the hole and it doesn't require any clamping for strength. Coating both surfaces...

It looks like you will have to shorten the butt between 1/2" and 3/4" to get a decent looking Hoppe butt. Traditionally they are about 5/8" total white and black.

I've been steaming out dents for over 50 years without any problems yet. If I can just go another 50 I won't care. Or I won't know I do. Let the wood thoroughly dry before sanding smooth. Don't use anything coarser than 600 grit and you shouldn't have any change in the shaft diameter.

There are also plastic fine line finishing tapes available at some Automotive finishing supply stores that leave a very sharp line and are low tack with no glue transfer but they don't do much better than blue painters tape in our line of work. BTW it is always a good idea to get the tape off as...

Probably. I use both on my cues and figure that either will weigh about 14 gm but there could be a gram difference. Extra glue might also add a gram. I've built a lot of cues over a long time and I don't believe anyone would feel a gram difference spread over a 12" area in the butt of the...

Before cuemakers could demand specific properties from manufacturers they would have to be ready to order and pay for an industrial size run of the material as well as come to agreement among themselves what exactly they all want that is the same. That isn't likely as some like one thing others...

Dick is right. thread and face the cap and tenon. assemble tightly, and turn it down. My tenon goes all the way through and has the center hole I turn with. When you are very close, .007" or so clean cut the dellrin and remove it while you finish turning the cue to final size. File a deep...

In a local room tournament when the last two players left decide to split first and second and go home who could possibly care. It's none of the business of any of the other participants, they lost and are gone. If it is a regular tour event chopping can't be allowed.

A matched set of shafts should include weight, and flexibility as well as the other normal factors. Apparently identical shafts can and do have wide differences in how they bend under identical loads and it is not necessarily gpi or weight that is the determinant. It's just the particular...