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Joss = 14 tpi. .071" mtrl removed from the face per 1 rev. of the shaft. That fancy ring you're wanting to preserve is now .070" thinner. Don't worry, no one will notice except maybe everyone. Probably one of the more efficient options would be to have a new decal made, the old one removed and...

The pin has very little if any direct influence on 'performance'. In a non-steel jointed cue, the pin can and will be influential in defining the 'hit'. ie; G-10 vs SS. Pitch also matters. Ask yourself; $6K cue & 18 tpi, why ? A steel jointed cue's hit will not be affected by pin choice. That...

Who am I to argue what you choose to believe.

Still dead area - Cul de sac.

If he ever has the opportunity to read this thread, I would like him to know that I considered him an asset to AZB. I enjoyed my conversations with him and wish for him to live long and prosper. Be well Craig/Manwon and THANX.

Buy a shoe, a house, a cue that fits. Why would you even consider something that doesn't ? " I'm just tossin a thought around and you act like I'm trying to ruin the cue makers intentions of his build. " Well, aren't you ???

These companies knew of the ivory taboo but invested anyway. These two companies have added to the illegality of ivory by knowingly and willingly making illegal sales. Surely you're not proposing some sort of sympathy for 'these two companies'. Karma works in mysterious ways. They get what they...

Instead of hacking-up a size-10 shoe to fit a size 8-foot, why not just buy the correct size shoe/cue in the beginning ? There's no additional cost and it fits, right out of the box. On the other hand, 'a player will adapt' (or find a shoe that fits). What you are requesting is to destroy the...

The need of a pilot has expired. Contemporary pin technology and tolerance have evolved. The greater the FLAT-faced surface area, the better the transfer of energy across the jnt. The pilot does not improve this, it stifles it. Continued use of a pilot is traditional. Case in point. Most of...

Ya done good David. What you've accomplished, few will attempt. What you've learned is priceless.

This is clearly an example of : to each his own. That's the way it should be. We have options and plenty of them. I didn't wake up one morning two weeks ago and decide I was going to be a cue-maker. I've been doing this 28 yrs. Here's my point. I've developed techniques and procedures that are...

As fate would have it, I had a similar experience; Walmart. They stocked the 2T Devcon (5min also) but decided to discontinue and started selling a lesser brand. I bought all the remaining 2T in the store. Well, I use a lot of epoxy and would run-out soon; what to do ? The '2-part in one'...

The orig. Aegis was my absolute favorite ferrule mtrl. I liked it so well that I used all I had, mistakenly thinking I could easily secure more. Some things in life you find-out the hard way. Years went by and I thought my dreams dashed when behold; Aegis-2 is now being offered. Kelly, I don't...

Predator shaft joint diameters are determined by the thread of the shaft. 18 tpi - .835" 14 tpi - .840 Rad & Uni - .842 10 tpi - .850 Anything else is considered uncommon and custom. HTHs, KJ

Kim, You're certainly welcome to use any epoxy that you find suitable. I think everyone else already does. While 5-min may work for you with apparently astonishing success, some of us have found otherwise. As has been stated, the biggest advantage to 5-min is it's cure-spd. That can also be a...

Ivorine-3 may be a good guess. The weave pattern and porosity are telling, maybe not conclusive but suggestive. This may be a good time to address Melamine/phenolic and I'm open to a discussion that adds clarity to my ignorance. My understanding is that Melamine is white (white linen, white...

I'm sure a good 5-min has it's place. I use Devcon 2t on every assembly, even ferrules. I'm done being in a hurry. 8 hr min. cure time, rock solid after 24. I use different epoxies for sealing prior to clear-coat. I thought I'd better add this before the jury convenes. Brand-name means very...

Joey is correct, LBM and a rather porous variety at that. To clean you might start with a soft-scrub type cleaning agent, mildly abrasive. Should chalk residue remain, move on to a slightly 'hot' solvent. Even at that you may not get it all. How do you feel about a slight turn-down ? That may be...

One of our more notable specialists for cues of that era would be Dale, aka, pdcue. Until he gets here I'll suggest a form of hyde-glue. Not sure when epoxy was available.

Please explain the 'theory' that led to your conclusion.