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Absolutely beautiful work, Sheldon. Thanks for the close-up pics.

See the bottom of the page: http://www.dzcues.com/cnc_photos.htm

I use the OLD Triangle chalk. From back when it was made by Kieckhefers. It really has a different consistency than the new stuff. It's much smoother & "creamier" than Tweetens Triangle or even Masters. I'm lucky enough to have found a few gross that should last my lifetime...

This shows both my tip & ferrule lathe & my main lathe.

I agree with all of your ideas. See pics at bottom of this page http://www.dzcues.com/hoppe_&_core.htm I also mount a tool sideways to score a groove running the length of the core and/or thru the sleeves themselves.

I know this isn't a picture of a cue but I thought you might like to see pics of the new light I got for my pool table. Very nice work by some clever professionals. http://www.dzcues.com/lights.htm PS They'll build one for you, too.

I didn't know that about the red circle ball. The one I weighed is darker than both the blue circle ball and the measles ball - much creamier in color. I would assume it is the heavier of the two styles.

Personally, I like the measles ball. It really allows you appreciate the finesse with which a good player can manipulate the cueball. As for the distraction, I got over that the first game. When I play with a normal "whitey" now, I miss seeing exactly what my opponent is trying to do and/or...

Just catching up here & saw this thread. Shaft was left with me last night to have a Talisman Med installed. Original tip (looked to be a Triangle) was pretty spongy. Cue itself is very nice. Different technique for accentuating grain. Pretty clever! Nothing about this thread was mentioned.

Never tried Titan. I found Ivorine 4 to be too hard for me - both in play & in machining. It's abrasive enough to rapidly dull carbide & I thought I got more squirt than from Ivorine 3 or Aegis 2. I don't like the look of the linen, either. Ivory is so pretty that I don't care how it squirts...

Thanks for the clarification. You have a very nice day, too.

In other words, the bolt does nothing to draw the forearm & handle together. It is merely used for weight. The threads serve only as glue grooves. In fact, he could make the tapped hole 1/2-13 or 5/8-11 and just add more epoxy. I don't really see any problems except that I have a natural...

Hi Craig, I've heard of this technique before, where the tenon is threaded into the handle & there is also a threaded screw going into that same tenon & the handle. I've never tried it but upon thinking about it, I fail to see any advantage. First, you must use the same pitch for both sets...

Wow! I must be older than you guys. I was charging $20 for a machined cut on a shaft taper. Time to raise prices. $30 sounds fair. I always remove the tip & epoxy a 3/8" thick wafer of maple to the ferrule. I cut a fresh center in the maple before machining the shaft. It only takes a...

As Dick noted, it is the best way to handle short sections. I also prefer it over using front/rear chucks when working on flexible parts, such as shafts. Heres why: imagine chucking up on the joint end of a straight shaft in order to machine the joint face & threads. Before you tighten the...

First, replace the locking setscrews with quality hardware so you can trust it to really lock everything down. Purchase your bearings. I chose 2 sealed bearings which have the same OD but different IDs to span the range of diameters I work on. Set up one of the bearings in your steady rest...

Hi Arnot, I think the initial charm of the Radial Pin was the fact that it was the first system that allowed almost anyone to install a joint pin that ran concentric with the butt by virtue of its register diameter. The snug fit was a bonus. But with the Radial Pin, the only function of the...

Here's a pic comparing a 3/8-10 std thread vs. the 3/8-10 flat-bottomed thread. Contact is pretty good with the flat bottom. Difference in 10 pitch and 11 pitch is negligible - the design is the same. I'd venture to say the flat-bottomed style compares favorably to the radial design. And...

No. You've never heard of him. He's a local tip repairman that is branching out, looking for another way to make a fast buck. He's a player on one of the area's stronger teams & for some reason, that gives him credibility as a "cuemaker" to some of the beginners around here. In reply to...

You are correct. He does NOTHING to the cue except remove the Players name & add his own. The buyers - usually first time cue buyers - are led to believe that these are custom made. Ironically, the same Players SPs are available where they play at the $39 - $59 prices. Go figure...