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also since ebony is quite heavy compared to maple, you will get a lot more deflection

good question...i know snooker tables are taller than american pool tables, dunno about official heights for an english pool table.

i got one too, but mine was different than neil's experience. could just be variance from tip to tip. the tip i installed was on the medium hard side, and held shape well. it terms of hit, it was kind of a blend between a good firm triangle and a hard lepro. it held chalk really well. i...

some of the tables they use for UK 8 ball are even smaller, you see a lot of 6 footers out there. not as easy as you might think though....lots of congestion on the table, balls are smaller (smaller target contact area), pockets are tight and have a different cut. odd thing is the cueball is...

the meucci quality is truly horrendous these days, stay away!

the hp2 is stiffer because of the composite core. it also has a different tone due to that....the wd700 feels more like a maple shaft. deflection-wise i can't tell the difference between the two, but my wd700 is slightly under 12.5 and my hp2 is slightly over, which could be throwing things...

i definitely am planning to get to ayer soon to play snooker. that is cool that billiards cafe is getting a carom table...one place to play pool, snooker and carom! there's no real carom tables in boston proper. there's some in a place in dorchester, but i heard the tables are awful and...

yeah, LD is a term thrown about pretty loosely these days. I think a lot of people market laminated shafts as LD shafts, either out of ignorance or just trying to pull the wool over people eyes. the D2 isn't a bad shaft, but it's not really LD as there's nothing really in the design to lower...

could be a snooker cue maybe, they often use brass joints with the pin on the shaft

mike webb the dominiak shafts aren't low deflection, i've had one. it's just a solid shaft, with a pretty standard ferrule design. yes, it's laminated, but lamination have nothing to do with deflection.

sounds like the same design on the tiger x shafts....

replace the ferrule, painting won't work out well

i installed and tested a medium and i really like these tips. some background on me....i prefer non-layered tips, they have a much more solid hit to me. most layered tips just don't hit solid to me, sometimes have a very slight clicking or tick sound, or feels like something just isn't put...

the samsara isn't as hard as phenolic, so you do lose a tiny bit of hop with it, but IMO it's very small and really shouldn't be a big issue. Unless you are doing trick shot type jumps or something. Cutting down the tip won't change anything, the samsara's are the same whether they're tall or...

i think royce told me the tapers were the same too. but my classic is definitely a different taper. i measured with calipers, but it is also pretty obvious to the naked eye. I like the new classic taper better though. it's a fair difference, it seems too much to be just normal manufacturing...

there's a whole thread in the main forum about the specs on earl's cue....specifically if the shaft is stock cuetec, taper, does it have fiberglass, etc. since you have one of earl's old cues, perhaps you could shed some light on the specs?

my ob classic has a different taper than my ob-1's, it's a bit stiffer

i just got an i2 and also have had an ob classic for awhile. i like the classic better...it is stiffer more solid. the i2 is a little too whippy for my taste and has a lighter, hollowish hit. if low deflection is something you desire, the classic has lower deflection...the i2 is only slightly...

i tried one once....they're ok for a cheaper layered tip. medium soft...mushrooms a bit, does hold chalk pretty good. just basically ok for the price, nothing spectacular.

i agree....i've tried these tips, they mushroom unless pressed. pressing makes the tip kind of thin though. it's basically a layered elkmaster that isn't really any better than a regular elkmaster if that is the kind of tip you like.