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What I see is pictured (see post #7 with the pencil lines) IMO is venners for 5-1/2 points. But your suggestion is correct. Do one more straight cut on the right side (mirroring the left side) to get one more half for a total of 6. The only trouble is that the jig (see post #2) does not have the...

....as long as it is a short collar pleeeeese!!!!:thumbup:

Cored with Purple Heart? I see a maple handle here... Absolutely LOVE Hard Curl and Ebony- 6 pointer w/ 2 veneers high and low! WOW!!! You going with 1/2 Stainless on the joint or ivory? The traditional South West style (black collar w/ matching rings) would be great as well :wink: ~Chris

Thanks! I hang mine by the tip end. I used to hang a few ounces of weight from the bottom of them as well. Not anymore. I cut the center hole and a bit past that off from every shaft so I have no danger of having a hole there. Paul- I could see that it MIGHT have a chance to crack the shaft...

Do you care to elaborate a bit more? Are you saying that it is best to not have gravity interfere? That the weight or gravity inhibits some movement of the shaft it it wants to move? Not challenging here, just looking for additional thoughts:) Thanks in adavance! ~Chris

I use a spring loaded live center when turning the shaft- very little spring! For cleaning and sanding, I run my "cup" live center against the tip end, but back it off just a hair. That way if the drive or shaft runs loose for some reason, the "cup" catches the tip end and the bearing starts to...

Nice!!! Hey Kevin! Lookin good! Just thinking to myself, the ring work might could use the darker linen in them~ bordering the white? Just an observation:wink: Keep up the good work! ~Chris

Dick, This is probably the reason I bugged up the groove in the first place! I have since then changed my process.:o Now if we could only discuss the "chewed up" threaded ferrule tenon (again- before I started "live tooling" them) He is getting one heck of a refurb. New wrap groove & wrap...

Thanks Ryan! Great pics!! My task is to build-up and then even out. I also took notice that you chucked up on the handle vs. doing the work between centers? ~Chris

Maybe I can get his question across? What the OP is asking: There are several cuemakers, like Gina and JossWest to name two, who use what look like "traditional" v- groove points, wrapped in spliced veneers- AND the outermost veneer (often black in color) is rounded at the top- making it look...

It's a McWorter.... JERRY McWorter! 2008 Cuemaker of the Year! He does some of, if not The finest Silver Work in the business too...the only silver done better is B.B.!! (IMHO) www.mcwortercues.com You are welcome Jerry:wink: ~Chris

Dave, HOW would you "clean it up?". Being epoxy- Would you sand it? Or would you "turn it" with your sharp single point tool? PS. To everyone~ thanks! PSS. And the deeper groove is in then HANDLE, right up against the PRONG... I think the viewers have gathered that already? Just proof...

Thanks! Probably apply it with a block against the wood so it forms nice and flat right? Then work it down?? Then single point?, square edge UTILITY BLADE?, or sand ? ~ to form? ~Chris

So...I'll show my @ss here :smile: When I built my 1st cue, I gave it to my best friend as a gift. His "graduation" present if you will. I had been showing him the game for 3-4 years and meanwhile I was beginning to "hone" my cue-making skills. (Still am by the way!- always!!) I see some of my...

A short time ago I didn't even know about coring. I made several cues out od BE and HC and still do, ( I love the hit!) but I believe I properly season my wood MY WAY and- knock on wood- have never had a cue come back for warp issues. TO THE ORIGINAL POSTER- With that said, the moral of the...

Actually, the reference to "chewing gum" is a half-truth- not literally but figuratively. If you let your epxoy set-up some, to the consistency of "chewing gum" before you apply it, in SOME circumstances, it has been known to minimize the starving of the glue joinery/ application AND prevent...

WOW!!! Great eye for detail! I thought I was the only one who would see that :wink: (IMO: the builder actually sacrificed a little bit of the ring alignment and focused more on the grain alignment- at least according to my eyes- lol!) When I first started, I used to make damn sure that I used...

Dave- pm on it's way!

I like his idea of the screw to hold your parts tight when press-fitting in place. I used to use a pipe clamp but I cringed everytime I would tighten the thing down as the cue would bow in the middle. I would change a few things: Make your screw and washer out of delrin. Switch the ratchet...

Yes. Great points that have crossed my mind. I was thinking I would mount a flat plate to the top of the block, and press-fit a bearing in the arm on the slide. The arm for the straight taper would have multiple holes and be attached via a screw or ground pin of some sort that would pass thru...