WTB Boring Bar

deadbeat

deadbeat

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am looking for a boring bar to do my pins with. I'm guessing I need something around 1/4 by about 2.5 inches bore depth. Not having much luck after looking for a while. Does anyone have anything like this that they would want to sell or any recommendations?
 
R

rhncue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Neil Lickfield, whose monicker is "cuttlefish", makes a very high quality, 6" long solid carbide boring bar. You can do no better.

Dick
 
Dirtbmw20

Dirtbmw20

Lee Casto
Silver Member
rhncue said:
Neil Lickfield, whose monicker is "cuttlefish", makes a very high quality, 6" long solid carbide boring bar. You can do no better.

Dick
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Dick is correct. Neil has them from time to time. That's who I got mine from..... sharpened on both ends so it's essentially 2 boring bars. Had it for awhile now and still just like new.
 
GBCues

GBCues

Damn, still .002 TIR!
Gold Member
Silver Member
Dirtbmw20 said:
Dick is correct. Neil has them from time to time. That's who I got mine from..... sharpened on both ends so it's essentially 2 boring bars. Had it for awhile now and still just like new.
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^^^^ Ditto ^^^^
 
DD Custom Cues

DD Custom Cues

Cues by Drew
Silver Member
Your not gonna get much business at a boring bar...sorry had to do it...lol

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
 
R

rhncue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
deadbeat said:
I read the solid carbide bits will not walk or move, is that true? Do they really make as true of a hole as a boring bar?
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Actually, drill bits do not drill round holes. They are a triangulated hole.

Carbide bits are extremely expensive (up to $1,000.00 a 1/2 inch set) and are very brittle and prone to break and chip.

When using a narrow, long boring bar I do always make at least two passes and often three to insure the hole is the same size to full depth.

I do have some carbide bits as they are much better than tool steel. I follow up with a boring bar however if I need precision.

Dick
 
Brickcues

Brickcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Using to put pins in go with the 3 fluke carbide. I use a center bit to start and then use 3 fluke carbide to drill all my 5/16 holes for my pins. You will find that the problem is not the hole but the tap as it will walk sometimes unless you cut threads.

You can also look for pins with barrels in the middle to help center the pin. This way you can drill the hole then bore to barrel size and length. If the tap walks the barrel will straighten the pin to the hole and the pin will be straight.

The problem I have with boring is that I have to make several passes and better measure after each pass as the bar will push or flex as it goes deeper into the hole or maybe I need to sharpen my boring bars better.
 
Tommy-D

Tommy-D

World's best B player...
Silver Member
I haven't needed to use it yet,but I have one that will fit into a .240 diameter hole,and go 2" deep into that hole.

I spent way longer than I probably should have,but I made it out of a slightly chipped 5/16 4 flute carbide end mill. Tommy D.
 
MVPCues

MVPCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
BHQ said:
i know what you're looking for,
but as always, there's more than one way to skin a cat

just throwing it out there as another option to consider

what i use for boring for pin, along with a .306" gage pin i made

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-1-4-SH...122153261?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item20db892b2d
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Do you drill a starter hole first? I live bore for installing pins also, but I use a 1/4" endmill after I drill a starter hole with an F drill. If I don't have a starter hole the endmill gets a bit toasty.
 
BHQ

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
MVPCues said:
Do you drill a starter hole first? I live bore for installing pins also, but I use a 1/4" endmill after I drill a starter hole with an F drill. If I don't have a starter hole the endmill gets a bit toasty.
Click to expand...

yes, .250"
 
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