coring maple
- Thread starter fugdbdt
- Start date
Crazy grain or speed up stability.
No one says you have to core maple but I always have because I am of the feeling that figured wood is less stable nor transfers the energy as well as straight grain maple. Why take a chance as it's so easy to core. The same reason that I use Nelsonite. Just extra insurance.
Dick
Eric Wynne
Banned
I core just about all my hardwoods but I don't use any maple that has to be cored . Doesn't have the hit or feel which is more important to me than looks ... The defective grain, even with a core, takes away some of the play ... Different strokes for different folks . 
I core just about all my hardwoods but I don't use any maple that has to be cored . Doesn't have the hit or feel which is more important to me than looks ... The defective grain, even with a core, takes away some of the play ... Different strokes for different folks .
I've heard a lot of things said on these forums that don't make sense to me but this statement is close to the top of the list. If you don't core any maple because you don't believe coring will make any difference, just why are you coring all of your other hardwoods?
Dick
Presto!
Hand selected coring dowel with perfect or near perfect grain alignment and high tone , give me the peace of mind.
IMHO, b/c they are not tapered makes them more stable as well.
I use rosewood dowels more often than maple.
Then it must not be stablilized yet.
EI Rosewood is so stable it is used to make marking/measuring instruments.
Have you tried Purpleheart?
Dale
Is the weight of EIR comparable to maple or more like ph?
That is it in a nutshell. I have cored straight grained Maple too, even though the grain was tight and straight.
Hey Dale, it doesn't leave Jackson without being cored. The only exception were the 30 year old 1 piece Maple cues.
I felt Eric made perfect sense. If I am taking it right, he feels Maple is pretty stable on it's own and plays better if not cored. He feels other woods really need to be cored for various reasons. Not trying to answer for him, I was just letting you know how I took it. And as one who only cores occasionally I find that logic sound. Maple has a feel and hit that is very hard to beat when left just like nature grew it. I am not saying it is wrong to core maple, but the only kind of maple I normally core is the less stable curly variety.
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Just seems to me that two woods glued together, won't resonate as well as a single piece of wood. Especially when they aren't a press fit. All I know is that epoxy, or poly glue doesn't resonate for crap.
I find it hard to believe that anyone could really tell the diference between
different coring material. Say purpleheart, rosewood or even straight grain maple. How about some empirical data for a change. Say a frequency chart for the different combinations. I'll buy weight and balance changes, but frequency, no way.
I find it hard to believe that anyone could really tell the diference between
different coring material. Say purpleheart, rosewood or even straight grain maple. How about some empirical data for a change. Say a frequency chart for the different combinations. I'll buy weight and balance changes, but frequency, no way.
Was that a yes or a no?
An emphatic yes. Straight grained handles are cored with straight grained dowels, fronts too.
I agree with this part of your statement. One solid piece of wood will resonate better due to the fact that there are no interruptions in the vibrations. This is the same basic principle as a full splice vs a half splice.
With all due respect, I disagree with this part of the statement. I believe the cue would play more like the core wood as opposed to the outer/host wood. Three maple cues, all built with different cores will resonate differently than each other, the same way three solid forearm cues, of three different woods will resonate differently. Also, a maple forearm with a PH core will resonate differently than a solid PH forearm.
I don't always think the tone is better, just different.