What is the best quality Aramith cue ball to buy?

I think this would beat out those 2 for quality. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SUPER-A...574?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337b963c96

I like how it plays, it's a bit more livelier off a rebound with other balls, if you like that sort of thing.

The red one is good also, the blue is eh..., it's used in a cheaper set.

justinb386 said:

I am curious about opinions on which of the Aramith cue balls is the best playing cue ball?

I found a red logo Aramith cue ball, and a blue logo Aramith cue ball (in the links below).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160889353445?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160889415889?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Does one play any better than the other, or is there an even better quality cue ball available to buy?

I am guessing that all of the Aramith cue balls weigh the same (6 oz?), so they all play about the same?

Thanks for your help.

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I have read that they have different surface aspects that affect play.

I know that I cannot get the same draw on the measles ball. I was told it was heavier than the others but I weighed it and it is the same.

go figure

Kim

whammo57 said:

I have read that they have different surface aspects that affect play.

I know that I cannot get the same draw on the measles ball. I was told it was heavier than the others but I weighed it and it is the same.

go figure

Kim

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That's the funny part about the cueballs, you can have 3-4 very good quality ones, that weigh withing a few % of each other, yet they react way differently. The only ball set that I found tougher to play with, that needs a good stoke to move them around, is the new Aramith Tournament set http://www.ozonebilliards.com/artoset.html If you don't hit them good, they are not moving.

It must be how tough and elastic the material is that they make it out of. And it also may be that the better quality cue ball is a lot closer in size and weight to the rest of the set and therefore reacts differently after contact.

The Aramith Super Pro Cup (measles ball) and the Red logo ball are made from the same Super Pro resin. Many players do testify that they play different but according to Aramith (and I got this directly from them) they are the same cue ball. Indeed, both balls come with the Super Pro sets (the red logo with the traditional set and the 6 dot with the TV set). Since the Super Pro sets are stated to be matched sets then the cue balls probably match the rest of the set which means both cue balls the same.

The blue logo ball is a lesser ball, made with the lower cost Premium resin.

As far as weight goes, the balls are not guaranteed to be exactly 6 oz. They are guaranteed to be within specification, which is 5 1/2 to 6 oz. Because of this, two otherwise identical balls may weigh different, and therefore behave differently. This is part of the problem with replacing a CB. If you have a set that is matched (like the Centennials or Super Pros) then the CB that came with the set should be very close in weight to the rest of the balls in the set. But any replacement CB may not necessarily weight the same as the ball it is replacing and therefore not seem to play the same.

I think this weight thing may be one of the reasons the measles and red logo seem to play different. Many people (myself included) bought a single Aramith measles ball to go with their Centennials or Super Pros, and it seemed to play differently than the red logo or blue circle (centennials) it replaced. It could be because the replacement ball doesn't weigh the same. But in reality, according to Aramith all three are the same ball made from the same resin.

i have a blue circle centennial,red logo aramith.and a measles ball
which i use with me set of centennials
buy the red logo aramith you will be happy its a very good cue ball
if you cant draw it well work on your stroke
if you are looking for a cue ball to maximize how much you can draw
buy the lightestweight cue ball you can find

best i could do, good luck

http://forums.azbilliards.com//showthread.php?t=287045&referrerid=79791

justinb386 said:

I am curious about opinions on which of the Aramith cue balls is the best playing cue ball?

I found a red logo Aramith cue ball, and a blue logo Aramith cue ball (in the links below).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160889353445?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160889415889?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Does one play any better than the other, or is there an even better quality cue ball available to buy?

I am guessing that all of the Aramith cue balls weigh the same (6 oz?), so they all play about the same?

Thanks for your help.

Click to expand...

I'd suggest you buy from the AZBilliards Marketplace, from a reputable seller. Lots of copies out there.

Might be a little more...but worth the $5 to get what you think you are buying.

I
M
O

justinb386 said:

Thanks for all of the helpful information. I am not too picky about the cue ball. I just want a good cue ball that will do what I want it to do. I just really hate a cue ball that is too heavy to draw back more than an inch. I do not have much money, so I was hoping to find a good cue ball for around $10. I do not mind buying a used cue ball either. I know that Aramith is the best, but are there any other cue ball makers that make a good light weight cue ball (that will respond good to any kind of english I put on it)? I guess that I may end up getting the red logo cue ball in the link below (if I can't find one just as good for cheaper).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160889353445?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Click to expand...

Cost being a consideration, go with the red logo ball. It is a Super Pro quality CB just like the measles ball, but is for some reason usually less expensive.

bbb said:

...if you are looking for a cue ball to maximize how much you can draw
buy the lightestweight cue ball you can find

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For anyone trying to to get more draw out of the CB rather than their stroke, buy a dozen CB's, weigh them all, then keep the lightest one and return the other 11. Oh, and hope you never need a lot of follow, lol. :wink:

hang-the-9 said:

The only ball set that I found tougher to play with, that needs a good stoke to move them around, is the new Aramith Tournament set http://www.ozonebilliards.com/artoset.html

Click to expand...

does anybody know whether Aramith offers a cue ball from this set for sale separately?

justinb386 said:

...I just want a good cue ball that will do what I want it to do. I just really hate a cue ball l]

Click to expand...

Join the club!
:grin::grin:

Black-Balled said:

I'd suggest you buy from the AZBilliards Marketplace, from a reputable seller. Lots of copies out there.

Might be a little more...but worth the $5 to get what you think you are buying.

I
M
O

Click to expand...

In your opinion, yes, but a good opinion! I agree, folks should be V-E-R-Y wary of counterfeit/copies out there, and trust me, counterfeit cue balls ABOUND on even reputable sites! (I think it was -- correct me if I'm wrong -- DogsPlayingPool who mentioned that Seyberts had to pull a cue ball product because they found out it was a counterfeit ball?)

The "price, price, price, and godammit, price" thing is going to get you in trouble. That's how you get a counterfeit ball in your hands.

Many vendors will unpack balls from their original display packaging, and throw them -- loose -- into a SKU box on a shelf somewhere, where a "picker" reaches in and grabs one to fulfill your order. Pay the $5/$10 extra, and be sure the ball comes in its original packaging (e.g. the blister pack that comes with the Aramith Pro Cup Measles ball is unmistakable).

-Sean

Take the plunge and buy the Aramith Super Pro in the blister pack. I know that $30 sounds like a lot for a single ball, but you will know that you are playing with the same ball the pros use. It is unlikely you will come up with a good cue ball new or used for $10.

For other questions about cue balls and object balls, get an inexpensive scale and WEIGH them, rather than guessing or depending on other people's opinions.

I also think it is a bad idea to get a lightweight cue ball in order to draw the ball as far as possible. It changes too many aspects of the game. Better to work on your stroke, maybe with the help of a few lessons, or coaching from friends.

DogsPlayingPool said:

The blue logo ball is a lesser ball, made with the lower cost Premium resin.

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I have the Premium set. So, my assumption is that the reason my CB has so many surface scuffs after only six months of play is that the resin is of inferior quality? Or maybe it's all the times it hit the basement floor (JK).

If you have a set that is matched (like the Centennials or Super Pros) then the CB that came with the set should be very close in weight to the rest of the balls in the set.

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I just went down and weighed all the balls. 12 balls are 166 grams (5.85 oz), two balls are 165 grams (5.82 oz) and one ball is 167 grams (about 5.89 oz.) The blue logo CB is a whopping 171 grams (6.03 oz). No wonder I can't get two table lengths of draw.:grin:

I would stay away from the blue logo ball based on my experience with it.

I prefer a red circle over all of them

sfleinen said:

In your opinion, yes, but a good opinion! I agree, folks should be V-E-R-Y wary of counterfeit/copies out there, and trust me, counterfeit cue balls ABOUND on even reputable sites! (I think it was -- correct me if I'm wrong -- DogsPlayingPool who mentioned that Seyberts had to pull a cue ball product because they found out it was a counterfeit ball?)

-Sean

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Sean, I don't recall saying that but I do recall discussions on the topic. I doubt that Seyberts "discovered" it was a counterfeit. Since they move a lot of Aramith product and I'd assume deal with Aramith directly, they probably knew it wasn't an Aramith ball but didn't realize Aramith had a problem with it and were simply selling the other measles CB as a lower cost alternative - not trying to mislead anyone. I don't recall that they were presenting it as an Aramith product. Seyberts and other retailers were probably not really in tune that Aramith had a problem with it.

What probably happened is Aramith went to all their dealers and communicated they had an issue. They might have said they are asserting their exclusive right to the design and told their dealer network that they would have to make a choice - they would drop any dealer that sold a similar aftermarket ball (be it 4, 6, or 8 dots). Obviously reputable dealers like Seyberts would rather have the Aramith line in their catalog.

Sloppy Pockets said:

I have the Premium set. So, my assumption is that the reason my CB has so many surface scuffs after only six months of play is that the resin is of inferior quality? Or maybe it's all the times it hit the basement floor (JK).

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Have you tried polishing the balls yet, either by hand or with a machine? A lot of scuffs will come out when thrown in a quality ball polisher or by spending time and elbow grease.

If there are serious nicks or chunks make sure you don't have any hardware, screws or nails sticking out of the pockets where the balls could bang into them.

DogsPlayingPool said:

Have you tried polishing the balls yet, either by hand or with a machine? A lot of scuffs will come out when thrown in a quality ball polisher or by spending time and elbow grease.

If there are serious nicks or chunks make sure you don't have any hardware, screws or nails sticking out of the pockets where the balls could bang into them.

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No ball polisher. The scuffs are definitely cue marks, mostly miscues I imagine. I really push the offset limit when I'm practicing extreme spin shots and I keep going out until I miscue. Plus, I really warp them in at those times, so that kinda does a number on the CB surface. I tried using a jeweler's rouge cloth but have been reluctant to try anything more aggressive. Any recommendations for hand polishing compounds?

Sloppy Pockets said:

No ball polisher. The scuffs are definitely cue marks, mostly miscues I imagine. I really push the offset limit when I'm practicing extreme spin shots and I keep going out until I miscue. Plus, I really warp them in at those times, so that kinda does a number on the CB surface. I tried using a jeweler's rouge cloth but have been reluctant to try anything more aggressive. Any recommendations for hand polishing compounds?

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So if the scuffs are from your cue then they are only on the cue ball? The CB and OB's will also scuff from hitting each other and the back of the pockets.

Those should buff out but you need to work on them a bit. It takes a little more elbow grease than getting off chalk marks. I'd suggest either the Aramith ball polish or Maguiars Ultimate Quick Detailer. These are the two recommended by Diamond for use with their machine. Brillianize does a decent job too but I like the Maguiars better.

The Aramith is harder to work with and takes longer because it is more of a cream so it comes in a squirt bottle rather than a spray bottle. You really have to put a drop or two on each ball, rub it around with a finger and then rub them out with a cloth. Because it is thicker it might be a little more aggressive in getting out those scuffs, but it takes longer to apply. The Maquiars sprays on so it's faster, especially if you clean them every session when you put them away. One slow pull on the spray trigger while you rotate the ball gives full coverage and you go straight to polishing with the cloth.

I'd go with the Maguiars first just for the convenience. That's what I use in my Diamond machine. If you need to try the Aramith polish you can always use the Maguiars on your car.

discussion

whammo57 said:

I have read that they have different surface aspects that affect play.

I know that I cannot get the same draw on the measles ball. I was told it was heavier than the others but I weighed it and it is the same.

go figure

Kim

Click to expand...

Funny, I had a discussion with 2 premier players after my match last weekend. The cueball subject did come up, and from my understanding all three do have a different weight, thereby affecting control, (the reason for my loss, I was long on the felt).
The measles is the heaviest, followed by the red-dot, then the blue-dot.

Made sense to me as I usually play the red dot, .... had the blue then.

My understanding is the difference is ever so slight.