In many instances, you have to aim off to compensate for sidespin.
In my scenario, you need to cut a half ball on the right hand side of the object ball for the object ball to go into the left hand corner pocket. Due to sidespin, you need to compensate by aiming to cut the ball thinner, let say somewhere between three eighth to one quarter ball.
My questions are:
1. Do you immediately aim at the approximate three eighth to one quarter ball as you place your bridge hand on the table, or
2. Do you look at the point of contact (which is not where you aim since it is point of contact to point of contact) and then shift it slightly to the right and focus on this new point of contact, and then stoop and aim at this new point of contact, or
3. Do you aim at the original point of contact, go down for the shot and then shift your bridge hand by moving it sideways (like crab) to the left and aiming slightly to the right of the object ball, or
4. As in s/no 3, but you pivot your bridge hand at your forefinger and rotate clockwise hence changing your aiming line.
When you watch the pro, you don't see them moving their bridge hand. In some junior world championships, I did see some younger players shifting their bridge hand to compensate for their sidespins.
How do you do it and what do you think is the best method when you have to compensate for sidespin?
For me, I use pivoting and not parallel aiming for my sidespin. I used to aim at the original point and then compensate by shifting my bridge hand (not sure whether I rotate or move sideways). I found it cumbersome and the end results are not ideal. Thereafter, I change to looking at a different point on the object ball from the actual contact point. That works well as long as the new contact point I am focusing on is still on the object ball. Sometimes, the contact point falls out of the object ball and that is when I have a real problem aiming off. Accuracy suffers.
Over the weekend, I tried another method and it works well. What I do is, I shift my "V" by moving my thumb. In the case scenario above, what I do is to move my thumb upwards. That inevitably shift the "V" to the left. Your true line of aim has changed and it is now pointing slightly to the right of the object ball from your original aim.
In my scenario, you need to cut a half ball on the right hand side of the object ball for the object ball to go into the left hand corner pocket. Due to sidespin, you need to compensate by aiming to cut the ball thinner, let say somewhere between three eighth to one quarter ball.
My questions are:
1. Do you immediately aim at the approximate three eighth to one quarter ball as you place your bridge hand on the table, or
2. Do you look at the point of contact (which is not where you aim since it is point of contact to point of contact) and then shift it slightly to the right and focus on this new point of contact, and then stoop and aim at this new point of contact, or
3. Do you aim at the original point of contact, go down for the shot and then shift your bridge hand by moving it sideways (like crab) to the left and aiming slightly to the right of the object ball, or
4. As in s/no 3, but you pivot your bridge hand at your forefinger and rotate clockwise hence changing your aiming line.
When you watch the pro, you don't see them moving their bridge hand. In some junior world championships, I did see some younger players shifting their bridge hand to compensate for their sidespins.
How do you do it and what do you think is the best method when you have to compensate for sidespin?
For me, I use pivoting and not parallel aiming for my sidespin. I used to aim at the original point and then compensate by shifting my bridge hand (not sure whether I rotate or move sideways). I found it cumbersome and the end results are not ideal. Thereafter, I change to looking at a different point on the object ball from the actual contact point. That works well as long as the new contact point I am focusing on is still on the object ball. Sometimes, the contact point falls out of the object ball and that is when I have a real problem aiming off. Accuracy suffers.
Over the weekend, I tried another method and it works well. What I do is, I shift my "V" by moving my thumb. In the case scenario above, what I do is to move my thumb upwards. That inevitably shift the "V" to the left. Your true line of aim has changed and it is now pointing slightly to the right of the object ball from your original aim.
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