Wax to seal a cue

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Sorry, I tried searching but I can't seem to find anything, maybe it's the Tapatalk app. I want to keep my new Meucci Pro shaft looking like a new maple shaft for years to come. I'm not a fan of grains showing on a otherwise nice clean wood due to dirt and chalk. What wax can I use that can be bought from a local vendor?

Thanks.

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JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
French polish plus Renaissance wax.
But, eventually the shaft will still look really dirty .
Will need re-cleaning and resealing .
 

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
French polish plus Renaissance wax.
But, eventually the shaft will still look really dirty .
Will need re-cleaning and resealing .
A dirty shaft is what I'm trying to avoid. Is this just a wax characteristic or is it just this type/brand of wax.

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mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
-Wax

No wax known to man will seal a cue shaft that is made of wood permanently .
Least not for anything over 40 hours of play …


Carnauba wax melting point is about 185/F
Pure polymer car synthetic wax has a harder surface and higher melting point.



If the pro shaft is a laminated wooden shaft I am not sure that
I would use wax on it..

The black dot shaft had major issue delaminating , Carnauba car waxes are petroleum based .


Any defect where the wax can get pressed into it could cause delamination if your cue is a laminate shaft .

Laminated shafts cannot use your normal waxes and solvents to be clean and protected .

Synthetic waxes have melting point and surface hardness that exceed the natural waxes by a considerable amount .

Personally most the cues made by that company didn't hold up that well, Meucci didn't honor their own warranty 10 12 years ago .allot of dealers were burnt .

My point is I don't know what to suggest that might not void your warranty.
You might want to call Meucci and ask them before using anything .
 

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
No wax known to man will seal a cue shaft that is made of wood permanently .
Least not for anything over 40 hours of play …


Carnauba wax melting point is about 185/F
Pure polymer car synthetic wax has a harder surface and higher melting point.



If the pro shaft is a laminated wooden shaft I am not sure that
I would use wax on it..

The black dot shaft had major issue delaminating , Carnauba car waxes are petroleum based .


Any defect where the wax can get pressed into it could cause delamination if your cue is a laminate shaft .

Laminated shafts cannot use your normal waxes and solvents to be clean and protected .

Synthetic waxes have melting point and surface hardness that exceed the natural waxes by a considerable amount .

Personally most the cues made by that company didn't hold up that well, Meucci didn't honor their own warranty 10 12 years ago .allot of dealers were burnt .

My point is I don't know what to suggest that might not void your warranty.
You might want to call Meucci and ask them before using anything .
The Meucci Pro is not laminated. This was a big selling point for me. It's got less than 4 hours of play on it now. It's so clean and bright maple, I just wish I could keep it that way.

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mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
The Meucci Pro is not laminated. This was a big selling point for me. It's got less than 4 hours of play on it now. It's so clean and bright maple, I just wish I could keep it that way.

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Well hell ,, I take it the shaft is cored on the tip end , still I think it should be treated like any other solid maple shaft .


White cotton rag 4inch X 4 inch and a Can of lighter fluid , soak the rag dripping wet with lighter fluid .
Straight up you need to plenty lighter fluid, it acts as a cleaning solvent , wood preservative and helps seal the shaft temporary because lighter fluid has paraffin oil in it .

Clean and buff , several times then apply some kind of car carnauba wax or synthetic pure polymer car wax .

This is what I do with all the solid maple shafts that come in my shop that don't have some stupid resin on them ..
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Wax

PS I have several lathes and all my work is done with the shaft rotating as fast as my lathes will spin .
 

Ron Padilla

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Mortuary I am a little confused and forgive me for asking again I had posted a 2 paragraph answer maybe I didn't hit the enter key right but, it sounded to me like in one sentence you are saying carnuba auto wax is bad and in another it is good? or is that incorrect in my part! As I said in my posting I use a drill press and joint bolt I bought to act like a poor mans lathe to wax and burnish my shafts, with a variety of different things and as I have read here, bowling alley wax, carnuba, the English wax the name always escapes me.
 

MitchAlsup

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have waxed my Z2 and Z2-S-tuned with Mothers Carnauba car wax about twice a year for the past 5 years. I wash the cue with alcohol (rubbing 90%) and a terry cloth to clean the pores. THen I put on several (3) coats of wax and let it dry lightly. After the last coat I let it dry for a couple of hours then buff out with a soft terry cloth. The cue will then need a couple of strokes with talcum so it does not stick in your clean hands.
 

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Well hell ,, I take it the shaft is cored on the tip end , still I think it should be treated like any other solid maple shaft .


White cotton rag 4inch X 4 inch and a Can of lighter fluid , soak the rag dripping wet with lighter fluid .
Straight up you need to plenty lighter fluid, it acts as a cleaning solvent , wood preservative and helps seal the shaft temporary because lighter fluid has paraffin oil in it .

Clean and buff , several times then apply some kind of car carnauba wax or synthetic pure polymer car wax .

This is what I do with all the solid maple shafts that come in my shop that don't have some stupid resin on them ..
Bob M. claims it it full solid but I can't see how it would be LD if it wasn't cored on the tip. I believe it does have the XTC ferrule, or so I assume. But it plays great too and is definitely LD.

But on another note, I have heard many times about lighter fluid. I have also heard denatured alcohol too. Any thoughts?

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tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have waxed my Z2 and Z2-S-tuned with Mothers Carnauba car wax about twice a year for the past 5 years. I wash the cue with alcohol (rubbing 90%) and a terry cloth to clean the pores. THen I put on several (3) coats of wax and let it dry lightly. After the last coat I let it dry for a couple of hours then buff out with a soft terry cloth. The cue will then need a couple of strokes with talcum so it does not stick in your clean hands.
I use a glove and am all too familiar with the way a freshly waxed cue gets sticky. Kinda of like the old Cuetec cues with the fiberglass outer shell, they would get so sticky over time.

I do like to treat my cues with conditioners like Cue Silk. Makes it nice and slick. I assume this would be fine over wax.

https://goo.gl/pQ5Hqa

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HawaiianEye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have used both alcohol and lighter fluid to clean my Meucci Pro shaft.

I also use Renaissance Wax on all my shafts, to include the Meucci Pro.
 

greyghost

Coast to Coast
Silver Member
Bob M. claims it it full solid but I can't see how it would be LD if it wasn't cored on the tip. I believe it does have the XTC ferrule, or so I assume. But it plays great too and is definitely LD.

But on another note, I have heard many times about lighter fluid. I have also heard denatured alcohol too. Any thoughts?

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You lost me at bob claims


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Ghosst

Broom Handle Mafia
Silver Member
I use Q-wax and there's no "sticky period" after if it's buffed. For the denatured alcohol you can find, "Methyl Hydrate" at Home Depot stores.
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Meucci history

Mortuary I am a little confused and forgive me for asking again I had posted a 2 paragraph answer maybe I didn't hit the enter key right but, it sounded to me like in one sentence you are saying carnuba auto wax is bad and in another it is good? or is that incorrect in my part! As I said in my posting I use a drill press and joint bolt I bought to act like a poor mans lathe to wax and burnish my shafts, with a variety of different things and as I have read here, bowling alley wax, carnuba, the English wax the name always escapes me.

Hi Ron

I will try to help explain my replies,, the shaft in question Meucci Pro ,
Meucci has a bad history of producing pool cues with defects and using cheap materials and not backing their warranty .
That is why I said the op should contact meucci before doing anything.....
Their are some laminated shaft makers that will do anything to not warranty their products .
That's why I asked if the shaft was laminated ….
Me suggesting anything that would void the OP warranty would be unwise. .


Waxes ,,,, LOL I haven't tested one car paste wax that didn't improve the shafts smoothness and ability for the shaft to glide easier.
I haven't seen one bad suggestion in this thread ..



I only suggest Synthetic pure polymer wax because it has the hardest surface and the highest melting point then all of the three know natural commercial waxes .
Paraffin , Bees and carnauba .
I don't believe I read your other thread or reply stating you said pretty much what I did .

This might interest you .
https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=394833
 
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