I paid $2500 southwest cue that is warped !

JB Cases

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Offering a refund if the buyer is not satisfied is the only way it should be done. I mean seriously, if the seller was in the same town as the buyer and they met in a pool hall, would the seller demand payment from the buyer without letting him examine it, and then only after the seller has left the premises? And would any buyer alive agree to this?

Conversely I've very rarely heard of a deal where the seller sends the cue to an unknown buyer up front, with the buyer's promise to send the payment when he's received the cue.

Because these transactions are long distance and the buyer doesn't have the opportunity to examine the cue first, the only right thing to do is offer his money back if he doesn't like what he receives.

As I said earlier this is the problem with long distance sales. Add in the international factor and it gets more complicated.

With a wire transfer the receiver often has to go to the bank and wait for the bank to fill out the paperwork to release the money. You can't simply reverse a wire transaction. The seller has to find out the information then fill out the paperwork etc... now with SOME banks this can be done online but not with all of them.

Then there is the question of the shipping costs, who pays? etc....

At the end of the day refunding the money means that the international seller takes a pretty good hit financially. When deals are done in person all these costs are minimized and come down to pretty much time.

Yes, the default position ought to be satisfaction guaranteed. But the buyer should also be doing extra diligent questioning and ask for every possible bit of information on the product before pulling the trigger. At the end of the day this isn't WalMart here, it's non-commerical people doing off-the-books private deals.

Whoever said over-describe was right. This is the only way to insure that there is no disappointment.

I once ran a sale on Ebay that I called the Crappy Cue Sale. I had a batch of junk cues that I had to get rid of. They were usable but in horrible condition. So I put up the description with every flaw and probably threw in some flaws that weren't there just to be sure. Surprisingly I started to get feedback where people said things like, "this cue is just fine" and "not nearly as bad as described" and even "best cue I ever used". Which only helped to spur more sales. The net effect was that I made a $1700 profit when all the cues were gone with many of the cues bid up to $40-50 on a no reserve $1 starting bid item.

You really can't go wrong with over-description. No one is misled, intentional or otherwise. And buyers are much more likely to be flexible in their expectations when an item is described accurately warts and all.
 

cuesblues

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I don't think that the taper causes the nose to lift on the butt of a South West.
I've check the two I own and they don't have it.
90% of the time that lift comes from the handle, and warped is warped.
Sometimes the cue rolls just fine screwed together, but the warp is there, and even if it doesn't
bother you from a playability standpoint, it does affect the value.
 

justabrake

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For those SWs I bought or sold in the past 10 years, most of them are not dead straight. Most of them got a roll in the forearm close to the joint in a couple of months after they left SW's shop. Personally I think the taper of the forearm is the problem. All SW cues are 21mm on the joint. Unfortunately most SWs have fat handle and buttsleeve. With small joint diameter and fat handle, the taper of forearm has to shrink dramatically. That causes a weak point on the nose. It's just my theory.

I thought SW offers two size handles
 

Heyalex40

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Three years ago I drove from Arizona to Atlanta in August to visit a friend of mine. We both love playing pool so I took my Southwest cue. I
play with the cue several times a week and I know for a fact the cue is dead straight. We went out and played one night in Atlanta and when I rolled the cue on the table it had a major warp age. My heart sank and I immediately knew I should have left the cue in Arizona. I drove home a few weeks later. When I returned home I took the cue to a local cue builder to see if anything could be done to straighten it out. He rolled it on a table at his place to see how bad it was and much to my surprise the cue was Dead Straight. I could not believe my eyes.

I would bet that you rolled your cue on a 9ft table with a 3 piece slate and one of the slates was off...
 

embassy147

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I have owned many Southwest cues and very few butts roll nicely because of the taper. However, most of them are very straight indeed. This is a simple method I check the straightness of a cue without the need of a lathe and it is very accurate. In most cases, it will show you how straight a cue is and where the problem is if you see a warp.
1. lay your cue with the buttend on the table surface and the joint area on the rail. so now the shaft is hanging outside the table.
2. roll the cue and see if there is any wobble at the tip.
3. you will hardly see no wobble at all unless the cue is perfectly straight or fresh from a cuemaker lathe.
4. most of the times you will see a minor wobble when rolling a straight cue.
5. in some cases, even you see some obvious wobbles, the cue may not be too warped. sometimes could be the roundness of the cue. but in most cases, obvious wobbles mean warp.

You may try different shaft length hanging off the rail. The longer the length, the truer the test is. With this method alone or sometimes combined with other simple tests , you should be able to find out what and where the problems are.

Hope this helps to find out how straight(or how warped) your cue is.
 

kvinbrwr

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If it is straight and round, It will not wobble when it rolls on a flat surface. Period. There is no exception for South West cues only. Only a variance in straightness or roundness will cause a wobble. Let do away with the magical SW taper roll.

Jayman

Are you saying the "SW Roll" is BS like "acceptable taper roll" ?????

If you say it, I'm buying it and that's a fact.

I'm off it.

Thanks

Kevin
 

classiccues

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The SW roll is not a magical myth. If you use two different tapers lets say 1 degree from the butt cap to the A joint then change the angle 1/4 of a degree. What will happen is that the joint will now NOT touch the table as a result of the taper change. When you roll it you will see light under the joint, but it should be consistant.

Because of this it will accentuate any wobble. Because now it will be very clear when there is a wobble by the light and gap change. A bump in the wrap will show as a huge. A lathe check is the only sure way to check a cue.

JV
 

kvinbrwr

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Oh great, 2 guys whose opinions I respect.

My straightness test is hand the cue to Ernie and let him spin it.

1) His old cue that spins straight ? - "someone made that thing pretty well"

2) Someone elses' cue that wobbles ? - "piece of crap"

3) His old cue with a wobble ? - "stored wrong"

LOL

Thanks guys

Kevin
 
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classiccues

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Oh great, 2 guys whose opinions I respect.

My straightness test is had the cue to Ernie and let him spin it.

1) His old cue that spins straight ? - "someone made that thing pretty well"

2) Someone elses' cue that wobbles ? - "piece of crap"

3) His old cue with a wobble ? - "stored wrong"

LOL

Thanks guys

Kevin

LOL yep.. and never ask a cuemaker about his secondary market... they ALL go up in value.. , even Wheats... :grin:

JV
 

kvinbrwr

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LOL yep.. and never ask a cuemaker about his secondary market... they ALL go up in value.. , even Wheats... :grin:

JV

JV

I was surprised that Tasc was so kind to this SW. Sounds like he actually convinced Steven to be happy with another maker's cue.

Your opinion is just like Tate's I think you are both saying that the taper, while not being the wobble if you see one, accentuates it if there is one.

Kevin
 

cobracop

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sounds like my luck. i hope you get your money back. at the very least, you sir, have a very expensive break cue :groucho:
 

TATE

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The SW roll is not a magical myth. If you use two different tapers lets say 1 degree from the butt cap to the A joint then change the angle 1/4 of a degree. What will happen is that the joint will now NOT touch the table as a result of the taper change. When you roll it you will see light under the joint, but it should be consistant.

Because of this it will accentuate any wobble. Because now it will be very clear when there is a wobble by the light and gap change. A bump in the wrap will show as a huge. A lathe check is the only sure way to check a cue.

JV

That kind of taper will show a roll at the joint like nothing else.

I took a cue to a cue maker to have the joint faced, because I could tell from sighting it wasn't aligned, even though the shaft and handle were dead straight.

He sighted it, marked it with a pencil, and took out a sharp pocket knife. He took a fine shave of the inside of the shaft face, assembled the cue and it was dead perfect.

This guy fits hundreds of shafts a month. I still have no clue how he did it, but I can't argue with success!
 
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saint1

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That kind of taper will show a roll at the joint like nothing else.

I took a cue to a cue maker to have the joint faced, because I could tell from sighting it wasn't aligned, even though the shaft and handle were dead straight.

He sighted it, marked it with a pencil, and took out a sharp pocket knife. He took a fine shave of the inside of the shaft face, assembled the cue and it was dead perfect.

This guy fits hundreds of shafts a month. I still have no clue how he did it, but I can't argue with success!


There was a little finish that got into face area and he simply scaped it away. A common thing to happen.
 

TATE

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There was a little finish that got into face area and he simply scaped it away. A common thing to happen.

Thanks for the info - and that's pretty much why rolling a cue isn't the best way to test for warp.
 

saint1

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I don't think that the taper causes the nose to lift on the butt of a South West.
I've check the two I own and they don't have it.
90% of the time that lift comes from the handle, and warped is warped.
Sometimes the cue rolls just fine screwed together, but the warp is there, and even if it doesn't
bother you from a playability standpoint, it does affect the value.

Lay the butt down on the table. If it is Simonis cloth then you should see a little day light under joint area. You can slide several sheets of paper under. If it is traditional type cloth with more nap and fibers then it may fill in the slight gap and you will not see it. Of course when rolled this tiny gap should stay the same and not wobble up and down.
 

snowmon34

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I hope this gets worked out so both parties are happy...Communication is key!!..I did a deal with a low life dirt bag his azb name is huysmall, and he has created a thread announcing a resolution, and has decided to hide..What f'n pos!!
 

justabrake

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I hope this gets worked out so both parties are happy...Communication is key!!..I did a deal with a low life dirt bag his azb name is huysmall, and he has created a thread announcing a resolution, and has decided to hide..What f'n pos!!


Originally Posted by justabrake
Youll never be trusted here again you do know that right you might be able to buy but you won't be able to sell here

Verwirre replied and this is what he said;

Yes I know it, you re the one who doesnt know the wobble that almost in every SW cues, and you blame it on me. Idc what ppl think, if I can't sell any cue here, its ok with me. Let's see the next time I sell anything here, I'm sure it can sell. I have many friends who respect me here, I suggest you just buy mass production cue and live with it


Well that was his reply
 
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