If zero deflection is the goal,why aren't aluminum shafts...
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The more the cue shaft flexes/deflects, the less it affects/deflects the cb. It's really an end mass thing.
Light shaft end mass and shaft flexibility combined. If the cue shaft were super stiff, no flexibility at all, it wouldn't matter how light the end of the shaft was... it would still cause a lot of cb deflection.
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I had an aluminum shaft years ago and OMG was it awful, like something from an old time gaff carnival game. It was relatively the same weight as a wood shaft but it was useless. So bad it was funny to watch...
hey some dude said the laws of physics state that a billiard ball must deform from an impact
the dude wanted to know how much,
but why......
the dude wanted to know how much,
but why......
It's easy to actually measure the deformation which is to say the diameter of the flat spot that both balls develop during contact. You don't have to trust someone else for the answer.
As for why, maybe he was thinking about how shots work and the way he was thinking was affected by ball-ball contact time. You can easily calculate the contact time if you know the size of the flat spot. (It's about 200 microseconds, for those who were wondering.)
As for using aluminum, I once got a solid 5/8-inch aluminum rod and put a tip on it. It gave a huge amount of squirt. That answered the question, does a stiff cue have less squirt. Some people at the time -- about 1987? -- thought that a stiffer cue would have less squirt.
Zero deflection isn't necessarily a good thing. For more info, see:
advantages and disadvantages of LD shafts
The only thing that affects CB deflection is the endmass of the shaft. For more info, see:
shaft endmass
what causes squirt
Graphite shafts have advantages, but I don't think they necessarily improve play. For more info, see:
NV J.12 - How to Select a Pool Cue, Cue Ball Deflection, Carbon Fiber, Revo vs. Cuetec
This depends on how you apply sidespin. For more info, see:
getting more spin with an LD shaft
I hope you and others find the resources helpful,
Dave
AlumiNIum 
And then, it's one of the worst materials for pool, as it's only stiff. It does not flex, compared to other materials.
I also has a tendency to be deformed instead of flexing (and returning to original shape without damage), like steel/wood would be.
Stiff means a lot of cue ball throwing off line.
Zero deflection (which is a misnomer) is meant for cue ball, and the cue actually shall have maximum deflection capabilities.
And then, it's one of the worst materials for pool, as it's only stiff. It does not flex, compared to other materials.
I also has a tendency to be deformed instead of flexing (and returning to original shape without damage), like steel/wood would be.
Stiff means a lot of cue ball throwing off line.
Zero deflection (which is a misnomer) is meant for cue ball, and the cue actually shall have maximum deflection capabilities.
what would determine the sideways movement of a cue ball propelled by having bb fired at it or a burst of air?
I did the same thing with a 3/8 steel rod. The weight and stiffness caused rediculous cb squirt.
Wouldn't a super low endmass shaft that was extremely stiff (zero deflection) cause the cb to squirt? I mean, if the shaft does not bend, allowing the light endmass to deflect away from the cb, then the cb would have to deflect/squirt.
Yes. The "endmass" depends on shaft stiffness. For more info, see:
shaft "endmass" and stiffness effects
Regards,
Dave
10,000 thank you very muches!! I've been waiting, literally, MONTHS for someone to say that!!
Squirt is useful....
no deflection is impossible, aluminum shafts produce an overage of squirt.. for me the sweet spot is solid maple with a short ferrule and a hard tip....
worry about your body movement to get better.. low deflection is a misnomer predator and ob are in actuality HIGH deflection shafts as they deflect MORE than conventional shafts.
it's all intentionally confusing jargon to create a debate among medium to lower skilled players.. the guys that can really play can get used to anything those of us lower on the food chain would do well to remember that consistency is easier to create if the cue influence stays the same ...
the guys that are always looking for the next cue thinking it will make even a tiny difference in their game are right it will make it worse
you have to settle on a cue before improvement has a valid baseline and 10 times out of 10 its body movement that needs improvement.
no valid instructor or honest pro will tell you that you are perfect all you need is a different cue..... Not One....
no deflection is impossible, aluminum shafts produce an overage of squirt.. for me the sweet spot is solid maple with a short ferrule and a hard tip....
worry about your body movement to get better.. low deflection is a misnomer predator and ob are in actuality HIGH deflection shafts as they deflect MORE than conventional shafts.
it's all intentionally confusing jargon to create a debate among medium to lower skilled players.. the guys that can really play can get used to anything those of us lower on the food chain would do well to remember that consistency is easier to create if the cue influence stays the same ...
the guys that are always looking for the next cue thinking it will make even a tiny difference in their game are right it will make it worse
you have to settle on a cue before improvement has a valid baseline and 10 times out of 10 its body movement that needs improvement.
no valid instructor or honest pro will tell you that you are perfect all you need is a different cue..... Not One....
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It should move mostly along the direction of the contact point through center cb line, like a good miscue.
In a manner of speaking you want the amount of squirt in your shaft to equal the amount you're most comfortable with.
The one thing I don't see in any of these threads is a technique that breaks it down into distance and shot types.
How in the name of Pete are you going to get used to your 13mm, 12.75, 12mm or wonderful new LD shaft if you don't spend some time practicing shots at various distances and cuts getting used to applying Spin in a way that you now know if you add more tips of spin you allow more or if you use less tips of spin you allow less.
You'll virtually never not allow for something so it pays to practice with your shaft and in that way stock allowances for distance are achieved from which feel leads to other shots.
For me using a 13mm 8in taper wood shaft it might be easier because I simply understand the allowances with it because I know they are more dramatic allowances and when I know the center ball coordinate is 1/4 ball at said shot and said distance that that the line up for this distance is 1/2 ball with a medium selection of side spin.
People just need to be accustomed to their playing cue and few practice it the way they need to get to know their shaft to start with.
A no deflection shaft would probably cause as much problems as anything.
I am currently playing with the Jacoby Hybrid. I think its great because the allowances are less but its just as problematic as all the others.
The one thing I don't see in any of these threads is a technique that breaks it down into distance and shot types.
How in the name of Pete are you going to get used to your 13mm, 12.75, 12mm or wonderful new LD shaft if you don't spend some time practicing shots at various distances and cuts getting used to applying Spin in a way that you now know if you add more tips of spin you allow more or if you use less tips of spin you allow less.
You'll virtually never not allow for something so it pays to practice with your shaft and in that way stock allowances for distance are achieved from which feel leads to other shots.
For me using a 13mm 8in taper wood shaft it might be easier because I simply understand the allowances with it because I know they are more dramatic allowances and when I know the center ball coordinate is 1/4 ball at said shot and said distance that that the line up for this distance is 1/2 ball with a medium selection of side spin.
People just need to be accustomed to their playing cue and few practice it the way they need to get to know their shaft to start with.
A no deflection shaft would probably cause as much problems as anything.
I am currently playing with the Jacoby Hybrid. I think its great because the allowances are less but its just as problematic as all the others.
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At 72 years old I have less stiff and less squirt
:rotflmao1::rotflmao::rotflmao1: