3/8 - 10 pin

Roadkill said:
If you really want a flat-faced joint (which is inferior to piloted), I would probably go with a brass 3/8-11.
Why is flat-faced inferior?

-td
 
3/8 and radial

some great info in this thread..can someone tell what is the size difference between 3/8 and radial? is radial a bigger pin?
 
joeboxer said:
Joey was talking about the A-joint, which is where the forearm is connected to the handle of the cue.
But i agree the G10 makes for a nice main joint pin also.
Any heavy metal on cues really is a potential buzz source.
G10 being more flexible, lighter and better gluing properties is very unlikely to cause a buzz imo.
 
pixies2 said:
some great info in this thread..can someone tell what is the size difference between 3/8 and radial? is radial a bigger pin?
Radial IS 3/8. Just different thread configuration. It has 7.5 rounded threads instead of 10 v-shaped on regular 3/8 10.
 
Roadkill said:
They are inferior in terms of mechanical strength.

Very interestering and educational. However, wouldn't a fatter pin be prone to cracking the wood the pin since there's not as much wood surrounding a 3/8 pin unlike the smaller pins that are protected by brass inserts? Also, as far as strength, wouldn't all be about the same if they're tight? Just wondering.

JED
 
Roadkill said:
They are inferior in terms of mechanical strength.
Please explain for the class.

I'm sure lots of current and future readers (if they figure out how to use the search functoin) will appreciate it.

;)

-td
 
Wouldnt the best be NO pin or joint? OK..then the closest to NO joint pin would be a similar connecting material as the 2 pieces you are connecting. ie a wood pin. Why dont cue makers use a hard wood as a pin? Yea I guess it would be more fragile and you have to take care of it...but wouldnt the resultant connection be closer to a 1 piece cue? Enquiring minds wanna know. My shaft does not have any metal in the threads...only a wood female thread. It seems to be holding up fine. Why not a wood male pin? Seems you would want the most homogeneous connection possible. Wood would be the material of choice to achieve that goal.
 
NaturalEnglish said:
Wouldnt the best be NO pin or joint? OK..then the closest to NO joint pin would be a similar connecting material as the 2 pieces you are connecting. ie a wood pin. Why dont cue makers use a hard wood as a pin? Yea I guess it would be more fragile and you have to take care of it...but wouldnt the resultant connection be closer to a 1 piece cue? Enquiring minds wanna know. My shaft does not have any metal in the threads...only a wood female thread. It seems to be holding up fine. Why not a wood male pin? Seems you would want the most homogeneous connection possible. Wood would be the material of choice to achieve that goal.

this is how the deano cues are, there are a few for sale over in the wanted/for sale section.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=97305
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=96937
 
I'd love to know more.
Much thanks for any info, friends.

AnitoKid

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td873 said:
Please explain for the class.

I'm sure lots of current and future readers (if they figure out how to use the search functoin) will appreciate it.

;)

-td
 
Bill the Cat said:
IMHO, I really think it's all in your head. There are so many other aspects to a cue that influence the hit (wood choice, shaft taper, tip, ferrule, stainless vs. phenolic joint, etc.) that the joint pin is of little consequence. The joint pin's purpose is to hold the cue together. I would challange anyone to hit with two similar cues that have different joint pins and tell me which is which.
As a relative newby, I agree. Every component from your backhand forward affects the hit IMO. For the last two years I've been playing with McDermotts, both Cocobolo and Maple, with phenolic collars. Recently I acquired a mostly Maple Joss with stainless collar, 5/16 piloted. The harder. stiffer hit I was anticipating never materialized. Blindfolded, I probably couldn't tell which was which. There was probably more noticeable difference between Maple and Coco McD's than between a Coco McD and a Maple Joss.
Bill
 
jed1894 said:
Okay, but what about a 5/16 or other pin that connects wood-to-wood? Wouldn't that be the same? Seems that once the two pieces are connected wood-to-wood the pin would a non-issue. Or, am I missing something? Is the 3/8 pin the only that truly connects wood to wood?

JED

Most 5/16 pins are piloted and have a brass insert to stregthen them. 3/8 10/11 or radial all are stronger joints IMHO and the hit is closer to a one piece cue. I am not a fan of stainless steel joints but if I was to choose a SS jointed cue I would choose a schon....hits really firm and is closest to flat face wood to wood joint.....as far as the pin possibly damaging the wood, use a phenolic insert...joint will come together tighter and it last longer.....just my 2 cents...
 
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td873 said:
Please explain for the class.

I'm sure lots of current and future readers (if they figure out how to use the search functoin) will appreciate it.

;)

-td

Well, I am not a cue maker, but whenever you are building let?s say structures. If you use a tongue and groove or duck tail or biscuits, etc... It is a lot stronger than just screwing it to the opposing surface. In the case of a piloted cue not only is it joined, it is also screwed. How strong is strong enough. I don?t think I have ever seen a flat faced cue break at the joint if tossed into a wall or across a table. It usually holds together fairly well and breaks at another spot.
 
strength

PROG8R said:
Well, I am not a cue maker, but whenever you are building let?s say structures. If you use a tongue and groove or duck tail or biscuits, etc... It is a lot stronger than just screwing it to the opposing surface. In the case of a piloted cue not only is it joined, it is also screwed. How strong is strong enough. I don?t think I have ever seen a flat faced cue break at the joint if tossed into a wall or across a table. It usually holds together fairly well and breaks at another spot.

A flat faced joint is stronger than a piloted joint in the direction that is most important, along the length of a cue. The bigger the pilot, usually the less actual contact area on the plane perpendicular to the impact created by hitting the cue ball. However, there is another issue. Typical threads are not meant to locate anything radially. Since there is almost always some side force on a joint when the cue ball is hit there seems to be some advantage to either a small pilot or one of the different types of threads that can be used to locate something radially. Acme threads, radial threads or a special modification of "standard" threads that someone uses that gives them a flat top.

Hu
 
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