Why is flat-faced inferior?Roadkill said:If you really want a flat-faced joint (which is inferior to piloted), I would probably go with a brass 3/8-11.
-td
Why is flat-faced inferior?Roadkill said:If you really want a flat-faced joint (which is inferior to piloted), I would probably go with a brass 3/8-11.
td873 said:Why is flat-faced inferior?
-td
Any heavy metal on cues really is a potential buzz source.joeboxer said:Joey was talking about the A-joint, which is where the forearm is connected to the handle of the cue.
But i agree the G10 makes for a nice main joint pin also.
Radial IS 3/8. Just different thread configuration. It has 7.5 rounded threads instead of 10 v-shaped on regular 3/8 10.pixies2 said:some great info in this thread..can someone tell what is the size difference between 3/8 and radial? is radial a bigger pin?
Roadkill said:They are inferior in terms of mechanical strength.
Please explain for the class.Roadkill said:They are inferior in terms of mechanical strength.
NaturalEnglish said:Wouldnt the best be NO pin or joint? OK..then the closest to NO joint pin would be a similar connecting material as the 2 pieces you are connecting. ie a wood pin. Why dont cue makers use a hard wood as a pin? Yea I guess it would be more fragile and you have to take care of it...but wouldnt the resultant connection be closer to a 1 piece cue? Enquiring minds wanna know. My shaft does not have any metal in the threads...only a wood female thread. It seems to be holding up fine. Why not a wood male pin? Seems you would want the most homogeneous connection possible. Wood would be the material of choice to achieve that goal.
td873 said:Please explain for the class.
I'm sure lots of current and future readers (if they figure out how to use the search functoin) will appreciate it.
-td
As a relative newby, I agree. Every component from your backhand forward affects the hit IMO. For the last two years I've been playing with McDermotts, both Cocobolo and Maple, with phenolic collars. Recently I acquired a mostly Maple Joss with stainless collar, 5/16 piloted. The harder. stiffer hit I was anticipating never materialized. Blindfolded, I probably couldn't tell which was which. There was probably more noticeable difference between Maple and Coco McD's than between a Coco McD and a Maple Joss.Bill the Cat said:IMHO, I really think it's all in your head. There are so many other aspects to a cue that influence the hit (wood choice, shaft taper, tip, ferrule, stainless vs. phenolic joint, etc.) that the joint pin is of little consequence. The joint pin's purpose is to hold the cue together. I would challange anyone to hit with two similar cues that have different joint pins and tell me which is which.
jed1894 said:Okay, but what about a 5/16 or other pin that connects wood-to-wood? Wouldn't that be the same? Seems that once the two pieces are connected wood-to-wood the pin would a non-issue. Or, am I missing something? Is the 3/8 pin the only that truly connects wood to wood?
JED
socks said:this is how the deano cues are, there are a few for sale over in the wanted/for sale section.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=97305
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=96937
td873 said:Please explain for the class.
I'm sure lots of current and future readers (if they figure out how to use the search functoin) will appreciate it.
-td
PROG8R said:Well, I am not a cue maker, but whenever you are building let?s say structures. If you use a tongue and groove or duck tail or biscuits, etc... It is a lot stronger than just screwing it to the opposing surface. In the case of a piloted cue not only is it joined, it is also screwed. How strong is strong enough. I don?t think I have ever seen a flat faced cue break at the joint if tossed into a wall or across a table. It usually holds together fairly well and breaks at another spot.