8-ball on a 7' vs 9'

W

WhatsTheSpot

Banned
It is frequently stated that 8-ball on a 7' table provides a greater challenge due to increased clustering and the need to play more precise position.

The entire story has not been told, and the situation has not been looked into with sufficient depth.

While the target area for position on a 7' table may be smaller, one cannot ignore that perhaps the shot itself may require the cueball to travel less distance than it would on a 9' table. If the cueball is required to travel less distance, it provides less difficulty, all else being equal.

This first notion is easy to understand, even though it is never discussed. There is a further compounding issue. On a 7' table, the shots themselves are easier to pocket. When the shot is easier to pocket, more emphasis can be placed on the position of the cueball. This is difficult to quantify, yet can make all the difference in the world.

When you face a shot that is difficult to pocket, your cueball can often end up getting a bit wild. On the 7' table, there much fewer shots that are difficult to pocket.

So you have easier shots, and the ability to place more of your attention on cueball control.

Another difference is that on a 7' table, you can easily leave the cueball on the other end of the table. You need not make the cueball travel and risk getting hooked. On a 9' table, you may be required to make the cueball travel to get closer to your next ball. I have not seen this factor discussed. It is an important difference in 8-ball on a 7' vs 9'.

I'll be interested to hear what you all have to say on this subject.
 
Last edited:
All I know is that I always ran more consecutive tables on a barbox than a 9 footer. I know most will say that 8 ball on a 9 footer is much easier (in fact not even a challenge to a pro), but I always saw more 5 and 6 packs (and higher) on a barbox than on a big table--at all levels of play. Position play and clusters aside, the break is more consistent on a small table, and it's easier to nudge balls apart and keep runs alive on a small table...and as you said, it's generally easier to pocket balls on a 7 footer and you usually need lots less pepper to control the whitey there than on a big table.
 
I know the reason they haven't closed a good percentage of the pockets to at least 4 1/4" on BB's like they have 9' tables. Most 7' tables in bars and poolrooms are coin ops and they want you to make balls easily to get more coins in them. With over 90% of all pool tables being 7' now and probably near 95% in a lot of areas, I would like to see an open BB tournament on tables with 4" to 4 1/4" pockets on them. This is the only way to make the 7' tables play harder. Valley's can have extended Ridgeback rails put on for around $200 to make them play tough enough to surprise a lot of bar box players that never played on them with the tight pockets and very lively rails. I don't know how much it would cost to make the pockets that small on a Diamond. Johnnyt
 
WhatsTheSpot said:
It is frequently stated that 8-ball on a 7' table provides a greater challenge due to increased clustering and the need to play more precise position.

The entire story has not been told, and the situation has not been looked into with sufficient depth.

While the target area for position on a 7' table may be smaller, one cannot ignore that perhaps the shot itself may require the cueball to travel less distance than it would on a 9' table. If the cueball is required to travel less distance, it provides less difficulty, all else being equal.

This first notion is easy to understand, even though it is never discussed. There is a further compounding issue. On a 7' table, the shots themselves are easier to pocket. When the shot is easier to pocket, more emphasis can be placed on the position of the cueball. This is difficult to quantify, yet can make all the difference in the world.

When you face a shot that is difficult to pocket, your cueball can often end up getting a bit wild. On the 7' table, there much fewer shots that are difficult to pocket.

So you have easier shots, and the ability to place more of your attention on cueball control.

Another difference is that on a 7' table, you can easily leave the cueball on the other end of the table. You need not make the cueball travel and risk getting hooked. On a 9' table, you may be required to make the cueball travel to get closer to your next ball. I have not seen this factor discussed. It is an important difference in 8-ball on a 7' vs 9'.

I'll be interested to hear what you all have to say on this subject.
Click to expand...
All good points. That's why I and others have proposed the following solution to make the game of 8 ball more difficult and interesting...

8 ball with 21 balls
 
Johnnyt said:
I know the reason they haven't closed a good percentage of the pockets to at least 4 1/4" on BB's like they have 9' tables. Most 7' tables in bars and poolrooms are coin ops and they want you to make balls easily to get more coins in them. With over 90% of all pool tables being 7' now and probably near 95% in a lot of areas, I would like to see an open BB tournament on tables with 4" to 4 1/4" pockets on them. This is the only way to make the 7' tables play harder. Valley's can have extended Ridgeback rails put on for around $200 to make them play tough enough to surprise a lot of bar box players that never played on them with the tight pockets and very lively rails. I don't know how much it would cost to make the pockets that small on a Diamond. Johnnyt
Click to expand...

I wholeheartedly agree with this statement. I love bar box 8 ball, and bar box 10 ball, but the tables play too loose, and too inconsistent. I am never going to be a world beater, but I think making the equipment better and a bit tougher would be good for the game all around. I think on a good, tight 7ft table, 8 ball can be just as tough as on a 9ft. Valley needs to rais its standards. It is fine wanting to make money, but the bars that host leagues could have their tables modified to be tighter, and same for the state and national tournaments as well.

Great thread!!

Braden
 
WhatsTheSpot said:
I'll be interested to hear what you all have to say on this subject.
Click to expand...

FWIW, I have always found 8-ball easier to play on the barbox as opposed to a 9'er.

Depending on the skill level of the player I'm shooting, I will use clusters to my advantage (unless they can be broken-out by myself). Potting balls and cueball positioning are indeed easier, imo. The less the cueball has to travel, the less mistakes are going to be made.

These opinions of mine are only formulated by MY experiences in the matter. Your conclusions may vary!!!

Maniac
 
Tuff call

We had a Bar Box in our basement growing up, so I always looked for action on the BB because of my high comfort level there, but I now prefer the 9' for most games.

If cash is involved, then I would rather be on the 9' for 8 Ball, doesnt matter for 9 Ball or 10 Ball, but the game of 8 Ball seems to get a little sloppy?
 
WhatsTheSpot said:
It is frequently stated that 8-ball on a 7' table provides a greater challenge due to increased clustering and the need to play more precise position.

The entire story has not been told, and the situation has not been looked into with sufficient depth.

While the target area for position on a 7' table may be smaller, one cannot ignore that perhaps the shot itself may require the cueball to travel less distance than it would on a 9' table. If the cueball is required to travel less distance, it provides less difficulty, all else being equal.


I'll be interested to hear what you all have to say on this subject.
Click to expand...

My take is that this is no argument. This idea of what make 7' 8-ball hard in your first statement is a retort, not the initial statement. Your answer is the normal statement and now you are using it as the retort. No argument. You've created this scenario:

Johnny: I'm better than you because I'm bigger
Jimmy: No, I'm better than you because I'm smarter
Johnny, No I'm better than you because I'm bigger, which you have never considered
Jimmy: No I'm better than you because I'm smarter, which you have never considered.
.

The table being bigger is what makes the 9' table tough; the table being smaller is what makes the 7' table tough....

Conclusion: 8' table is the right table for amateurs...

Freddie <~~~ leaping without logic
 
In my opinion, this comparison has more to do with equipment than the actual game being played. If you're used to playing on 9-foot tables, playing 8-ball on a 9-foot table isn't that big a stretch. If you're used to playing on 9-foot Gold Crowns and playing 9ball and you switch to 7-foot Diamonds and playing 8-ball, trust me, you have a lot to be concerned about.

This is the summary:

1. 9ball player who
2. plays on 9-foot
3. Gold Crowns

will have a really hard time playing

1. 8ball on a
2. 7-foot
3. Diamond


If any of these variables are in common, the transition is going to be less severe.
 
The lesser amount of difficult (i.e. long shots) on a seven foot table makes it easier. It is also easier to make balls on the break on a bar box simply because for any given cloth speed the balls don't have to travel as far to reach a hole. The instances of congestion are increased on the BB but I don't think all in all the seven footer is more difficult. The big table is harder when it is all said and done, imho.
 
randyg said:
The probability of a scratch is higher on a bar table!
randyg
Click to expand...

Yeah, especially if the barbox is really ragged, with those corner pocket metal plates lifting up -- they are often sharp!

The probability of getting gashed is very high on these bar tables, much less a scratch!

:p
-Sean
 
DogsPlayingPool said:
The lesser amount of difficult (i.e. long shots) on a seven foot table makes it easier. It is also easier to make balls on the break on a bar box simply because for any given cloth speed the balls don't have to travel as far to reach a hole. The instances of congestion are increased on the BB but I don't think all in all the seven footer is more difficult. The big table is harder when it is all said and done, imho.
Click to expand...

Mitch:

I agree. I've made some ridiculous straight pool runs on a barbox that had its side panel removed (i.e. "free pool Wednesdays") -- hitting breakshots that I wouldn't even think of attempting on a 9-footer.

The much shorter distances, and mushy rails/cushions (on a Valley, anyway) make for near-vacuum-powered pockets that allow for some really fun 14.1!

-Sean
 
I grew up playing on a bar box that I had at my house. I've had many break and runs playing 8 ball on my home table and in the local bar leagues.
I've since moved to an area where its mostly 9' tables and I can say that I'm no where close to the speed I play on a bar box. You do need tighter position on a 7 footer, but I find it much more difficult to play position on a 9'. Once I get more comfortable shooting longer shots I believe it will be easier but for now I miss my bar box :frown: .
All of this is probably irrelevant but its still my 2 cents.
 
Looks like I’m the odd man out...
I have ran 6 racks in a row on a 9' table three different times over the past 20 years. How many times have I done that on a 7' table? ZERO. Most I’ve ran on a 7' table in a row, 4.

I think a 9' table is easier, sure some of the shots are longer, but as long as I’m in the same angle its ok most of the time. To me 2' shot and 3 or 4' shot at 25 degree angle is the same. No worries. Bigger landing areas help with this. 7’ table your landing area is way smaller, you can go from a 25 degree shot to 70 degree shot in just a few inches.

Executing a safety shot on the 9 footer is easer too. Leave someone long and hooked by half a ball and you are ok. But on a 7’ table, there is never a great place to play safe.

Then there are the clusters. On a 9’ table you might get one or two (MIGHT) areas where you need a break out. On a 7’ table you have to break out two clusters almost every game.

Last but not least, the good old ITP Tour. I watched those events when they were on and those guys ran out from everywhere on the 9’ table. Same guys at the barbox tournaments, run outs were not even as often.

My .02
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
In my opinion, this comparison has more to do with equipment than the actual game being played. If you're used to playing on 9-foot tables, playing 8-ball on a 9-foot table isn't that big a stretch. If you're used to playing on 9-foot Gold Crowns and playing 9ball and you switch to 7-foot Diamonds and playing 8-ball, trust me, you have a lot to be concerned about.

This is the summary:

1. 9ball player who
2. plays on 9-foot
3. Gold Crowns

will have a really hard time playing

1. 8ball on a
2. 7-foot
3. Diamond


If any of these variables are in common, the transition is going to be less severe.
Click to expand...

Best explanation of the thread!

It really depends on the player. I have always primarily played rotation on 9' tables. For me, eight ball is annoying on a 9'. I have ran more racks of 8-ball on a bar box as long as you only look at racks ran. Percentages, I'm way ahead on a 9 foot. But I've probably only played it on a 9' somewhere around 10 times. And that includes the first few times that I picked up a cue.
 
Cornerman said:
My take is that this is no argument. This idea of what make 7' 8-ball hard in your first statement is a retort, not the initial statement. Your answer is the normal statement and now you are using it as the retort. No argument. You've created this scenario:

Johnny: I'm better than you because I'm bigger
Jimmy: No, I'm better than you because I'm smarter
Johnny, No I'm better than you because I'm bigger, which you have never considered
Jimmy: No I'm better than you because I'm smarter, which you have never considered.
.

The table being bigger is what makes the 9' table tough; the table being smaller is what makes the 7' table tough....

Conclusion: 8' table is the right table for amateurs...

Freddie <~~~ leaping without logic
Click to expand...

I like this guy.
 
DukeOfAim said:
Best explanation of the thread!

It really depends on the player. I have always primarily played rotation on 9' tables. For me, eight ball is annoying on a 9'. I have ran more racks of 8-ball on a bar box as long as you only look at racks ran. Percentages, I'm way ahead on a 9 foot. But I've probably only played it on a 9' somewhere around 10 times. And that includes the first few times that I picked up a cue.
Click to expand...

I've had to do the transition so I have a little familiarity with it. I also play primarily on 9-foot tables and have been playing on Brunswicks for most of my life. Making the switch to 8ball on 7-foot Diamonds was tough initially. That "edge" you think you have because you play on big tables is lost by your unknowing conservative play. On a 9-foot table there is the "correct side" of a ball. On a 7-foot table, all the shots are short so the correct side is far less of a concern and most people who routinely play on 7-footers are very aware of this. The key to strong 7-foot play is minimal cueball movement. Do things that are predictable and the most predictable thing is the stop shot.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
I've had to do the transition so I have a little familiarity with it. I also play primarily on 9-foot tables and have been playing on Brunswicks for most of my life. Making the switch to 8ball on 7-foot Diamonds was tough initially. That "edge" you think you have because you play on big tables is lost by your unknowing conservative play. On a 9-foot table there is the "correct side" of a ball. On a 7-foot table, all the shots are short so the correct side is far less of a concern and most people who routinely play on 7-footers are very aware of this. The key to strong 7-foot play is minimal cueball movement. Do things that are predictable and the most predictable thing is the stop shot.
Click to expand...

This. :thumbup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top