9 foot table room size 34x13

purpdrag said:
Exactly, I had gotten a pamphlet somewhere that said 14'7" x 19'2"" or something like that for a 9' with standard langth cues. I used this when I was looking to buy my current house. If the house listing gave room dimensions I could save myself a trip if it didn't have a room at least that large. For those listings that didn't give room dimensions, I took my tape measure with me to every prospective new house. The real estate agent started getting a little annoyed because there were several houses that might have worked but the "pool room" was a little too narrow. So sorry, that's how it was. We started going directly to whatever room I thought might work for the pool table so I could measure it and we wouldn't waste time looking at the rest of the house first.

I did find 13' wide is a very common dimension. We had requirements for a 2 car garage, a nice kitchen, 2 or 3 bedrooms, and a good room to accomodate the 9' pool table. The pool table requirement was the hardest to meet. But eventually we found it.

I guess my point is you really should have thought of all this BEFORE you bought the house, but now that you have, if you can't do anything to widen the room you're just going to need to buy a short cue for shots from the side rails. :(
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Did the real estate agent accommodate you? When I eventually look for a house, a pool room sufficient for a 9 footer will be the one absolutely non-negotiable aspect. I would like to think a real estate agent would understand if you say it is 100% non-negotiable, but I've heard stories of agents who try to get you to "compromise" no matter how much you explain it.

I've also heard that it's tough explaining to an agent that a 15x20 room is not the same as a 300 square foot room with different dimensions.
 
ballafish said:
I like the post from ATLARGE if you want to use this table for practice his option of turning the table gives you unrestricted stroke on over 50% another option is the living room. I don't know the family situation so that might be a problem but the smaller room could be for tv viewing.
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I don't mean to "turn" the table, just put it closer to one side wall than the other, creating a fully usable table on three sides and a "short-stick" table on the fourth side. That gives an unrestricted stroke on over two-thirds of the table.
 
AtLarge said:
I don't mean to "turn" the table, just put it closer to one side wall than the other, creating a fully usable table on three sides and a "short-stick" table on the fourth side. That gives an unrestricted stroke on over two-thirds of the table.
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I like this approach. It makes the best of a bad situation.

The alternative is to take AtLarge's approach and cut a hole in the wall on the short side. There may be a few minor side effects to this solution but clearly the benefits outweigh them.
 
Depending on what you want the table for you could make it work.

Place the table with the distance required from one wall. There will still be enough space along the narrow side to make some shots and have access to that side. When playing or practicing just change the rules. If you can't use a regular length cue then you have either bank, masse, jump or kick at a ball.

This will give a good practice table and help with banks and kicks.

Personnally I would just get a 7ft Diamond. You will end up being happier with it.
 
msubilliards...No, you have to figure from the outside dimensions to accomodate a full backswing. Steveharn has it right. Add 10' to the length and width, and you'll be fine for a 9' table.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

msubilliards said:
You don't have to add it to the outside dimensions since you can cue over the outside. You need to add to the playing dimensions 100"x50".
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TSW said:
Did the real estate agent accommodate you? When I eventually look for a house, a pool room sufficient for a 9 footer will be the one absolutely non-negotiable aspect. I would like to think a real estate agent would understand if you say it is 100% non-negotiable, but I've heard stories of agents who try to get you to "compromise" no matter how much you explain it.

I've also heard that it's tough explaining to an agent that a 15x20 room is not the same as a 300 square foot room with different dimensions.
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You'd be surprised at how little they care. They just want to show you the house and hope you'll compromise.

Before I found my house, I gave different agents the requirements I had (a room at least 15x20 with no poles, etc). They would call to have us look at a house. When we went, often times they would say "this room has to be big enough". I would measure it and it would be 14x20 or 15x18 or some other iteration that wouldn't work.

I told them it wouldn't work and they would get pissed at me. Many times they would try to get us to look at the rest of the house. I stopped dealing with them and went looking on my own, eventually finding a house that works perfect for us.

Apparently they didn't realize how important it was to me...that or they didn't care.
 
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Scott Lee said:
msubilliards...No, you have to figure from the outside dimensions to accomodate a full backswing. Steveharn has it right. Add 10' to the length and width, and you'll be fine for a 9' table.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
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If you only add 10 feet then don't plan on playing one pocket with any good players. I promise it will get old quick when you have no stroke room after you get left frozen to the end rail over and over.

My room is 17 x 20 (just over by an inch or so) and there is barely enough room to stroke with the ball frozen.
 
brandoncook26 said:
You'd be surprised at how little they care. They just want to show you the house and hope you'll compromise.

Before I found my house, I have different agents the requirements I had (a room at least 15x20 with no poles, etc). They would call to have us look at a house. When we went, often times they would say "this room has to be big enough". I would measure it and it would be 14x20 or 15x18 or some other iteration that wouldn't work.

I told them it wouldn't work and they would get pissed at me. Many times they would try to get us to look at the rest of the house. I stopped dealing with them and went looking on my own, eventually finding a house that works perfect for us.

Apparently they didn't realize how important it was to me...that or they didn't care.
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I've worked with a couple of agents selling and buying my home. I must say, in my experiences they are useless. Probably the only edge they have over the regular shmo is they have done it a few times, so they know the steps to take. I've seen tons of listings with poor grammar, spelling errors, etc. Its all a sham in my opinion, the whole real estate industry.
 
Worried

This thread has me worried. After reading numerous posts here planned on buying 9' Diamond Pro and I am building a house - built a room 14 x 18 because that is what Diamond site says:

(sorry can't post link as I don't have 5 posts)

No way to go back as there is brick involved - and really wanted 9' table (complete novice) am I making a mistake?
 
jhugo said:
This thread has me worried. After reading numerous posts here planned on buying 9' Diamond Pro and I am building a house - built a room 14 x 18 because that is what Diamond site says:

(sorry can't post link as I don't have 5 posts)

No way to go back as there is brick involved - and really wanted 9' table (complete novice) am I making a mistake?
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This is the link: http://www.diamondbilliards.com/index.php/about/pool-room-dimensions

I don't know why Diamond and Brunswick say that. I can't imagine a 14x18 room would be sufficient for actual play on a 9 footer.
 
brandoncook26 said:
You'd be surprised at how little they care. They just want to show you the house and hope you'll compromise.

Before I found my house, I gave different agents the requirements I had (a room at least 15x20 with no poles, etc). They would call to have us look at a house. When we went, often times they would say "this room has to be big enough". I would measure it and it would be 14x20 or 15x18 or some other iteration that wouldn't work.

I told them it wouldn't work and they would get pissed at me. Many times they would try to get us to look at the rest of the house. I stopped dealing with them and went looking on my own, eventually finding a house that works perfect for us.

Apparently they didn't realize how important it was to me...that or they didn't care.
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Yeesh. I figured that if I was clear that it's a 100% absolute deal-breaker, they would listen.

I'll be in the market soon and will share any experiences (good or bad) with the board.
 
jhugo said:
This thread has me worried. After reading numerous posts here planned on buying 9' Diamond Pro and I am building a house - built a room 14 x 18 because that is what Diamond site says:

(sorry can't post link as I don't have 5 posts)

No way to go back as there is brick involved - and really wanted 9' table (complete novice) am I making a mistake?
Click to expand...

jhugo,

I built my great room around my Brunswick Sport King with a playing surface of 90" x 45". Your room would be fine for that. I think it would be small for anything bigger. In fact they shot down one wall on the wrong side of the line & I had one spot for shots down the rail that was tight for a stroke & it was aggravating.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Best Wishes to You &
 
Ok just constructed mock table with sawhorses, a 4x8 plywood, and some taped cardboard to simulate 50 x 100 space - walked around don't seem to have any cuing issues - it might be tight to have 4-6 people but with just 2 or myself practicing it seems fine - what am I missing?
 
jhugo said:
Ok just constructed mock table with sawhorses, a 4x8 plywood, and some taped cardboard to simulate 50 x 100 space - walked around don't seem to have any cuing issues - it might be tight to have 4-6 people but with just 2 or myself practicing it seems fine - what am I missing?
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If the cue ball is frozen to the rail, you won't have enough space for a full backswing.
 
9 ft table.........

Not enough room............24x30..........is good......need 6 ft on all sides plus............room for ur chairs couch etc. 30x13 way to small.....work good for bar box 3-1/2x7!!!!!
 
jhugo said:
Ok just constructed mock table with sawhorses, a 4x8 plywood, and some taped cardboard to simulate 50 x 100 space - walked around don't seem to have any cuing issues - it might be tight to have 4-6 people but with just 2 or myself practicing it seems fine - what am I missing?
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90" + 116" + 206" / 12" = 17' 2" with not stroke room add 5" x 2 + 10" + 17' 2" = 18' that for an official 8' table 90" x 45" playing surface.

45" + 116" = 161" / 12 = 13' 5" + 10 for stroking = 14'3"

So for a 90" x 45" You would need a 18' x 14'3" room & that only allows for bar stools in the four(4) corners.
 
Re

50 playing surface plus 58 inch cue off both sides assuming ball on rail, is 13 feet 8 inches, thus 2 inches of cue stroke, tight but I guess I see where diamond is coming from
 
jhugo said:
50 playing surface plus 58 inch cue off both sides assuming ball on rail, is 13 feet 8 inches, thus 2 inches of cue stroke, tight but I guess I see where diamond is coming from
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Exactly - 2 inches of stroke room is nothing.

I believe one of the levels of Dante's Inferno consists of a beautiful 9 foot pool table in a 13.5 x 17.5 foot room.
 
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