9' table... Real world room size needed

JazzboxBlues

JazzboxBlues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am currently shopping for a new home and one of the requirements is being able to have a 9' table unobstructed. I've seen room size recommendations and question if they're really enough. What size room have you found to be the minimum. The width so far seems like the biggest obstacle.
 
JazzboxBlues said:
I am currently shopping for a new home and one of the requirements is being able to have a 9' table unobstructed. I've seen room size recommendations and question if they're really enough. What size room have you found to be the minimum. The width so far seems like the biggest obstacle.
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Ideal minimum width without furniture is about 14' 10", based on a 58" cue and 6" backstroke if the cue ball is against the cushion, and you need to stroke perpendicular to the cushion.

I had a table that was in 14' 3 width room", which was certainly less than ideal, but I could stand it. YMMV.

I'll request that the first person that points to a silly website that shows silly room sizes be banned or flogged.

Freddie <~~~ let the flogging begin
 
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Probably impractical, but I need a room that would house two tables....
...just to put in one.
...turned down a few invitations to play on private tables where the walls are too close...
....like doing time.

You need a space where people can sit.
 
ShakesSea said:
I followed the suggestion of having minimum 5' clearance on all sides. So a 4.5x9 fits comfortably in a 14.5x19 space. I only had one wall that wanted to be at the minimum on to make as much space as possible for furniture and such on the other side of the room and this five foot rule works great for my space.
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I know this won't make any sense, but 5' clearance on a 9' table has never and will never result in 14.5' x 19' . This has been known for decades, yet people still say it. You'll be short on the width. Measuring will make this clear.

Then there's the push shot...
 
I'm also shopping for a house and I have the same requirement. I'm only looking at places with a room 15' X 20' minimum. Hoping for bigger.
 
here is the right answer for the minimum size. your playing surface is 50 by 100 inches.

so for your width you need 50 inches plus two 58 cue lengths = 166 plus 3 inches on each side for when you are on the rail and level cue , you dont stroke very much when this happens.

so 172 inches = 14 feet 4 inches. for the width of the room to still be able to shoot all shots.

add 50 (4 feet 2 inches) inches to this for the length.= 18 feet 6 inches.

all this only applies when you are shooting straight across from a wall. which isnt often.
 
maha said:
here is the right answer for the minimum size. your playing surface is 50 by 100 inches.

so for your width you need 50 inches plus two 58 cue lengths = 166 plus 3 inches on each side for when you are on the rail and level cue , you dont stroke very much when this happens.

so 172 inches = 14 feet 4 inches. for the width of the room to still be able to shoot all shots.

add 50 (4 feet 2 inches) inches to this for the length.= 18 feet 6 inches.

all this only applies when you are shooting straight across from a wall. which isnt often.
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I like the analysis.
 
I just had a new 9 foot installed today in a room that was 14' 7" by 18' 9". I can play every shot from every position with a 58" cue.
 
ShakesSea said:
I get it but regard it as a kind of rule of thumb that works out. The math is favorable. 9' table has a 50" surface width. 14.5 ft is 174". Minus playing surface = 124". Divide by the two sides and you're at 62" clearance for a 4" back swing if you're shooting straight off the rail. Tight, maybe, but how much back swing are you ever using when shooting off the rail? I'm either jacked up or taking a careful short level stroke trying not to miscue.

I'm fortunate that my room is 15'6". But on the wall I wanted to be close to, which is the long side, I centered the table on 19' relative to that wall and there's plenty of stroke room on that side.

Now, actually using a room that is 14.5x19 means having nothing in that room except a pool table. My room is something like 22"6' long and I'm going to have to be creative getting a work bench and seating in there.
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As I said, my answer wouldnt make sense. Let me say another way... adding 5' clearance does not ever get you 14' 6" x 19'. Ever. Impossible.

if you add 5' clearance to the length of a table, and you end up with an actual measurement of 19' (completely possible), then the width would have to be 14' 10", not 14' 6". That's the math if the table and nothing to do with personal preference.

So if we go by the helpful "rule of thumb" of adding 5' clearance (or 10' to the table sizes or whatever), you'll always be starting with less room on the width compared to the length of you simply use 9 x 4.5
As your references . Always.

So if someone starts to buy a house, I think the "rule of thumb" better make sense. Adding 10' clearance is great, but you actually have to measure your table or do the math. Or else you might get a surprise when you compromised a little on the size and end up scratching your head saying "why don't I have as much room on the width as I do the length?"

If you come up with a length of 19' (great!), then the corresponding width has to be 14' 10", not 14' 6". That's the math.

Freddie <~~~ still won't make sense
 
The outside dimensions of a 9 footer are 5x10....add 58'' to each side, this should be your minimum.
 
I have 62" from the rail to the side wall(14.5' wide room). Plays fine even with the cue ball sitting on the rail and shooting directly across. 58" cue.
 
Sometimes the cue having room isn't the only thing you should consider. I'm a bigger guy and have a pretty wide stance, just because the cue fits, doesn't mean I do.
 
we can play Pool or Snooker at my house, my Living Room is 35 x 45 , that's where the tables are.
 
pt109 said:
Probably impractical, but I need a room that would house two tables....
...just to put in one.
...turned down a few invitations to play on private tables where the walls are too close...
....like doing time.

You need a space where people can sit.
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Very true, you need to factor that in.
 
look for a floor plan thats 20x15, that should fit it fine.... The exact dimensions are not really needed as your not going to find a house with dimensions as some have stated like 14.5x19 etc..... 20x15 (Or 20x20) is a common size game room
 
ShakesSea said:
I think you're making sense! Your point being that the formula yields 2" more clearance on the long sides than the short sides? Fair enough, but I still contend that it's a basic rule that gives enough clearance.

Also, I might as well admit that I lied. I probably cheated about 2 extra inches away from the wall I needed to be closest to just to be safe.
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Yes, exactly!
 
easy-e said:
Sometimes the cue having room isn't the only thing you should consider. I'm a bigger guy and have a pretty wide stance, just because the cue fits, doesn't mean I do.
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I had that problem also....I'm only six feet, but I like to keep my head a long way away
from the cue ball....and my back foot is really far back.
If I'm crowding the cue ball, I lose my perspective.
 
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