A bit of help

O

outlaw

Registered
Hi guys,

I don't know if I'm posting in the right area cause I'm new around here. Please help me with some advice regarding the following:

First off, I've been playing in amateur competitions in my youth so I'm not a complete beginner. After not playing for about three years, I came back to the table recently and started toying with the idea of purchasing a cue stick for the first time in my life.

Due to other hobbies (Photography and MMA) that demand money, I decided to go with a cheaper McDermott S30 or a Players HXT99. Someone offered me a used Kruger Gold series or a Viking (new price 250 euros) for about the same amount as the new McD or Players.

What do you guys recon I should do? Which should I buy? Please share your wisdom and guide me.

Much appreciated.
 
Any of those would likely serve you equally well. If you have a chance to shoot with them that will help you make your decision. I highly recommend it.

Take some pressure off yourself on the decision too. It isn't permanent. You can always sell it and buy something different or better when and if you like.




.
 
Get a cue that has a "professional taper" -- a fancy term that means the first 12 to 15 inches of the shaft (starting from the ferrule end) is a constant diameter that then begins to taper towards the screw end (the stick's assembly joint).

Unless you play the great majority of your shots with an "open bridge" -- as is common in places where they use the term "Euro" when referencing prices (as you did) you'll appreciate the feel of an unvarying diameter of a "pro taper" whenever you use a closed bridge.

That said, a few players do say they like the hit of a shaft that doesn't feature a pro taper.

Arnaldo
 
Outlaw...Between the Player and the McD, the McDermott will have a lifetime guarantee, and should serve you well as a longtime player...plus it's made in the USA vs China (although you sound like you're in Europe). I haven't heard of Krugar cues.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
 
I think I would opt for the McDermott, as well. Sometimes those Chinese shafts are from a very loose grain maple that, over time, can look like a Chinese noodle. :smile:
 
I believe Oliver Ortmann ran a 150 & out against Earl Herring Accu- Stats Player review (highly recomended ) with a Kruger Cue .Just Saying. It's the carpenter not the tool.
 
under your price range

1t3i026.jpg

1t3i030.jpg

its straight 99% new and I am going to install a new ultraskin tip on it.
It is under your budget and comes with a tube case and tip shaper .
if you are interested pm .
were do you live?
MMike
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all your answers. MMike, unfortunately, I live in Europe. Are both McDermott and Players cues made in China? or only Players? I mean, for the european market...
 
cues

outlaw said:
Thanks for all your answers. MMike, unfortunately, I live in Europe. Are both McDermott and Players cues made in China? or only Players? I mean, for the european market...
Click to expand...

Hi outlaw

If I was to buy a cue in you price range it would be used ................
any mcdermott made in the usa with a solid shaft. is playable in my books.
I like 3/8x 10 pin flat face joints, < thats just me or my opinion>.

I dont know that much about new production cues except most are not offering solid wood shafts, they all seem to be going to some hi tech state of the art improvement over solid maple .
Me I like solid maple shafts, Once again my opinion.

if you want this cue i am going to replace the tip with ultraskin med.
and i can get this cue to you for a price that is with in your means. It really doesnt make any difference where you live I ship cues everywhere.
Hands down this cue with the right tip will give you great cue ball control.. and the cue will hold together.


This is the best I can do to get you into a good playing cue.


Best of luck finding a cue.
MMike
 
McDermott makes a good quality cue and has a solid warranty.
I have hit with a few players cues that other people were using and I would personally never play with one but that's just one of many opinions.
 
I think I found a bargain: 80 euros for a well maintained Viking. It is 5 years old and has two golden rings above the Viking signature... Don't know the model - perhaps someone remembers/knows it...

Thanks again to all that gave me advises
 
The absolute best advice in this thread is at the start of the third post. Hit balls with a cue before buying it. You never know when a cue will somehow bother you, even if it sounds good "on paper" and even if it's a good price.

If the cue bothers you, it will affect how you play. The only way to know for sure is to try before you buy. Ask around local pool halls to see who's selling cues. In my area, someone always is. You don't need to look far or special order your first cue. A good used cue from a local is good enough.
 
outlaw said:
I think I found a bargain: 80 euros for a well maintained Viking. It is 5 years old and has two golden rings above the Viking signature... Don't know the model - perhaps someone remembers/knows it...

Thanks again to all that gave me advises
Click to expand...

If it's not warped, it will be FINE. The CUE is certainly not one of the Top 5 factors leading to a superior game...and may not be in the Top 10.

As others have suggested using different words...a top speed player can beat you like a rented mule with a warped house cue so concentrate on what COUNTS.

#1 is KNOWLEDGE

#2 Is PRACTICE.

So, get Jimmy Reid's entire video library and review his website EVERY DAY. His videos are super-discounted right now.*

Next, you MUST adopt an aiming technique.

Since I'm selling other people's instructional DVDs I would get BOTH
Stan Shuffett's CTE/Pro One dvd and Gene Albrecht's "Perfect Aim."*

Just Google for the web sites. Get DEEPLY into one at a time spending at least 3 months on each and finally pick one that works best for you.

There is a 100% chance that either system is FAR superior to how you now approach aiming.

Finally, regardless of what aiming technique you use...including your own trial and error method...make yourself a promise that you will hit your next1,000 shots using ZERO english (side)...just dead center ball cueing because, if you don't you can't know whether your aim was off or you messed up corrrect aim with deflection/swerve/curve etc. caused by off-center CB contact.

You may not...probably won't...get the shape you need on the next shot with pure center ball CB contact but trust me...perfect shape will do you ZERO good if you miss the shot!!!

So, learn how to aim and THEN learn how to use english as needed to get shape.

EagleMan

*I have nothing to do with anyone's video sales.
 
Thanks EagleMan! Sound advices. Usually, I miss maximum 2 balls/times per game. usually if I pocket from the break, I run the table. But I never had formal training so I will be looking into what you said.

Once again, thanks to everyone that helped
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top