A Joint Handle Construction vs. J/B construction?

Wes Moran

Wes Moran

The Crappy Cue Guy
Silver Member
Okay so Im looking to have a one piece butt made into a J/B and while I was thinking it over today I began to question something.

Why is it common practice for cue makers to add joint collars at the handle joint of a J/B...But when cues are made with A joints (not spliced handles) and the joint is flat faced there is no need to reinforce the joint with any form of collar?

Just curious.
 
I'm going to take a shot that I am reading your question correctly.
I've read it 3 times now and could still be wrong, so we'll see.

The 'A' joint of most cues is not flat-faced, it's of a tenon construction.
Also, the 'A' joint is not intended to be unscrewed.
Once the forearm is joined to the wrap handle, the connection should be such as to mimic a single piece of wood with a little wght. added.

Did that answer your question?
 
Kinda

Well it kinda answers it...I guess Im just wondering why a well done joint that is tightened well can't be just as strong as a glued joint.

IDK...I understand that collars will keep it from splitting tho. So...IDK
 
Wes Moran said:
Well it kinda answers it...I guess Im just wondering why a well done joint that is tightened well can't be just as strong as a glued joint.

IDK...I understand that collars will keep it from splitting tho. So...IDK
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The collars in a J/b protect the face from getting bumped and damaged whilst the cue is apart plus with no collar if dirt gets in there it makes the joint look like shit. Ever see an old sneaky with dirt ion the facing? You can see that joint from a mile away!
 
magnetardo said:
The collars in a J/b protect the face from getting bumped and damaged whilst the cue is apart plus with no collar if dirt gets in there it makes the joint look like shit. Ever see an old sneaky with dirt ion the facing? You can see that joint from a mile away!
Click to expand...

Okay that makes alot more sense....IDK why I wasn't thinking about that.
 
JoeyInCali said:
The collars are there to prevent the wood from splitting.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Make a radial sneaky without a collar on the shaft...give it to a typical careless gorilla...it won't last but a few hours at most before it splits. Put a phenolic collar on the shaft and then it'll last for life.:wink:
 
> From the wisdom I've gathered here,when doing an A joint,it is most certainly weaker to join 2 pieces of flat end grain together than it is to have a little bit of a gap in there when you add glue to the equation.

This is why you see a short piece of phenolic at the very top of the handle section under the wrap on a lot of cues.

Of course,adding glue negates the possibility of the J/B joint.

The reasons for using short phenolic rings on a jump joint have been very capably explained above. Tommy D.
 
Wes Moran said:
Okay so Im looking to have a one piece butt made into a J/B and while I was thinking it over today I began to question something.

Why is it common practice for cue makers to add joint collars at the handle joint of a J/B...But when cues are made with A joints (not spliced handles) and the joint is flat faced there is no need to reinforce the joint with any form of collar?

Just curious.
Click to expand...

I've read this a few trimes and maybe it's that I haven't had my coffee yet but I'm still not sure what you're asking, BUT, The ring at the "A" joint is more than for reinforcement of that area. It's commonly known among cuemakers as a "buzz ring" ,meant to keep cues from "buzzing" when you hit a ball. Without the phenolic ring in place, when the cue is built, you would have 2 pieces of wood end grain being glues together. The end grain tends to wick or draw the glue into the grain and away from the joint, thus causing a poor glue joint and future "buzzing". By using a phenolic ring in between the 2 pieces you effectively reduce the wicking as the end grain in both positions are being glued to the phenolic. It's almost alway a bad idea to glue end grain to end grain.
 
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