A lot of the finish is rubbed off near the joint. Can it be repair without a refinish

J

justinb386

Banned
I am curious if my cue can be repaired without needing to be completely refinished?

A lot of the finish looks to have been rubbed off near the joint of my cue, and it looks really ugly to me.

I am hoping that this can possibly be repaired without a complete refinish of my entire cue, because I do not have the money for that.

I was thinking that maybe a new white joint color would fix the issue, and be a lot cheaper then a complete refinish, or is there an easy way to get that area with all of the rubbed off finish looking good again?

Thanks.
 

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justinb386 said:
I am curious if my cue can be repaired without needing to be completely refinished?

A lot of the finish looks to have been rubbed off near the joint of my cue, and it looks really ugly to me.

I am hoping that this can possibly be repaired without a complete refinish of my entire cue, because I do not have the money for that.

I was thinking that maybe a new white joint color would fix the issue, and be a lot cheaper then a complete refinish, or is there an easy way to get that area with all of the rubbed off finish looking good again?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Well a refinish will more than likely be your best bet here. If you have the joint replaced it will need to be refinished then also. Then you will have the cost of replacing the joint and a refinish. So the cheapest fix is a refinish..
 
patrickcues said:
Well a refinish will more than likely be your best bet here. If you have the joint replaced it will need to be refinished then also. Then you will have the cost of replacing the joint and a refinish. So the cheapest fix is a refinish..
Click to expand...

Hi,

Doug is right and thats what I would also recommend.

If you are on a tight budget, a superglue blend job could do the trick. I am thinking that odds are your finish just may be superglue to begin with. Even with 25 coats of superglue the finish is very thin and may explain the wear from rubbing the rail.

JMO,

Rick
 
Thanks. It is a South East cue made by Nat Green, if anyone know what type of finish he uses on his cues. I am sad to hear that a complete refinish will be required. I was really hoping that the repair would be less expensive.

scdiveteam said:
Hi,

Doug is right and thats what I would also recommend.

If you are on a tight budget, a superglue blend job could do the trick. I am thinking that odds are your finish just may be superglue to begin with. Even with 25 coats of superglue the finish is very thin and may explain the wear from rubbing the rail.

JMO,

Rick
Click to expand...
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi,

Doug is right and thats what I would also recommend.

If you are on a tight budget, a superglue blend job could do the trick. I am thinking that odds are your finish just may be superglue to begin with. Even with 25 coats of superglue the finish is very thin and may explain the wear from rubbing the rail.

JMO,

Rick
Click to expand...

I have done a few CA fixes on problems similar to this. I usually sand it lightly with 1000 then put on 2 coats of thin CA then 1 to 2 coats of med CA. If you use a little mineral oil on the pad before you put on the CA, it goes on smoother. Hit it with kicker and then wet sand it with 1000 until it's smooth. Follow up with 1500 and 2000. Then use polishing compounds to get a shine. The problem is that sometimes CA is shinier than the original finish so you might not want to buff it too much.

Kim
 
You can stop this problem in the future and limit any further degradation through the use of joint protectors. Use ones that are slightly larger in diameter than your joint. At present, every time you insert your cue into your case friction is wearing your finish away. Notice that the deco-ring on the shaft has not been affected. That's because you are inserting the shaft in with the tip down.

Dick
 
Thanks for your reply, and thanks for all of the other replies I received. I have only had the cue for a couple of days. I received it on a trade (that I am kind of regretting now). The guy that owned the cue thinks that the wear was caused by the person that ripped the sticker price tag off, and then worn out the finish by trying to get the sticker residue off somehow. I have had many cues over the last 19 years (since I 1st started playing), and this is the 1st time that I have ever seen wear like that near the joint. I have never caused any kind of damage by putting cues in my case, and I have never needed joint protectors in the past. I have always taken very good care of my cues in the past though (never put a ding, or damaged them in any way). I can't imagine how that wear in the finish could have possibly happened. I can't imagine that it was a cue cases fault.

EightballJunkie said:
Before you jump the gun on a refinish, try polishing the area with a little automotive rubbing compound. Some of those scuff marks may disappear. If there are spots where the finish has worn away they won't polish out as shiny.

As Rick mentioned, the area could be touched-up with CA and blended in. If done well, it'll be hard to tell it was touched up.

Was this caused by your case?
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I recomend joint protectors for all cues. It is the only place on the cue that has no finish. moisture can escape & be absorbed there, (in the end grain)
...JER
 
If you just want it to not look dull at the joint SG will shine it up. Keep in mind that superglue is clearer than all finishes and will most likely look diffrent than the rest of the cue. If you want it done properly have the cue refinished. Just my $0 .02
 
whammo57 said:
I have done a few CA fixes on problems similar to this. I usually sand it lightly with 1000 then put on 2 coats of thin CA then 1 to 2 coats of med CA. If you use a little mineral oil on the pad before you put on the CA, it goes on smoother. Hit it with kicker and then wet sand it with 1000 until it's smooth. Follow up with 1500 and 2000. Then use polishing compounds to get a shine. The problem is that sometimes CA is shinier than the original finish so you might not want to buff it too much.

Kim
Click to expand...

I use baby oil, but it works just fine. I would have never thought it would work so well. Thank you Grey Ghost for that keeper!
 
Please explain to me on how I will be able to put thin coats of CA on it, and what is CA, and where can I buy it? Someone also mentioned Super Glue. How would I go about applying thin layers of super glue? Please forgive my stupidity. I do not care it it does not look perfect. I just want it to look a little better, and blend in a little better with the rest of the cues finish. I do not have the money for a refinish, so would really like to give this CA fix a try. Thanks.

whammo57 said:
I have done a few CA fixes on problems similar to this. I usually sand it lightly with 1000 then put on 2 coats of thin CA then 1 to 2 coats of med CA. If you use a little mineral oil on the pad before you put on the CA, it goes on smoother. Hit it with kicker and then wet sand it with 1000 until it's smooth. Follow up with 1500 and 2000. Then use polishing compounds to get a shine. The problem is that sometimes CA is shinier than the original finish so you might not want to buff it too much.

Kim
Click to expand...
 
justinb386 said:
Please explain to me on how I will be able to put thin coats of CA on it, and what is CA, and where can I buy it? Someone also mentioned Super Glue. How would I go about applying thin layers of super glue? Please forgive my stupidity. I do not care it it does not look perfect. I just want it to look a little better, and blend in a little better with the rest of the cues finish. I do not have the money for a refinish, so would really like to give this CA fix a try. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Super glue is a type of CA. CA stands for cyanoacrylate.
 
I am curious if this stuff might be worth a try?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvCHyrsk4pc

I am not sure what it really does, but it seemed to remove all of the scratches from the car in the above video. Will any automotive rubbing compound do about the same, and what would I do after using it? Would a Polishing Compound be a better option (like one of the ones in the below video)?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJ9w28MYuSU

I do not want to risk damaging the cue, so wanted to ask 1st. Thanks.

EightballJunkie said:
Before you jump the gun on a refinish, try polishing the area with a little automotive rubbing compound. Some of those scuff marks may disappear. If there are spots where the finish has worn away they won't polish out as shiny.

As Rick mentioned, the area could be touched-up with CA and blended in. If done well, it'll be hard to tell it was touched up.

Was this caused by your case?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
I was recommended this stuff (in the link below) after I told the employee at Auto Zone about my pool cue, so I thought that it was my best bet at removing the very light scratches and wear, but it did not do anything to the issue.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...l-remover/_/N-26m4?itemIdentifier=269030_0_0_

Would the regular rubbing compound be worth a try too, or is it a bad idea? Does it look like some of the finish is still on the cue, or does it appear to all be worn off? Please watch the 1st few seconds of this video I created, and tell me what you think?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SOIad2OKuw

Thanks.
 
Can someone please explain to me how I apply super glue to the area, what type of super glue (and where to buy it), and how to do it without a lathe (that I do not have)? Thanks.

Jon Spitz said:
If you just want it to not look dull at the joint SG will shine it up. Keep in mind that superglue is clearer than all finishes and will most likely look diffrent than the rest of the cue. If you want it done properly have the cue refinished. Just my $0 .02
Click to expand...
 
Find a competent cue maker near you and get it done correctly.
The quick fix you are looking for will only end in tears no matter how much typing myself or someone else does in trying to explain the process..
 
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