A very cool tip on shafts

[pete lafond]

One thing that drives me nuts is on a new cue shaft and its shiny coat. You have to get this crap off as nothing has a better feel than bare wood, at least to me.

Here is the best method;

Yep, Mr. Clean Magic eraser. Damp it and then go for it. What a great job, plus, it is not abrasive on the wood. Except; it will pull the tedious bothersome "hair" like fibers. These are the fibers that cuesmiths wish they could cut off. Now you can because Mr. Clean Magic eraser just surfaced them for you. Taking a super fine, 1000+ grit, abrasive, just work the shaft and most simply disappear.

Next, if you have a piece of leather, burnish the cue shaft. If you don't, then grab a clean white envelope and use it to burnish with. You cue should now look cuesmith new.

And if your really want to, then use our conditioner to protect the wood keeping it smooth and repelling grit. No other wipe or conditioner consistently repels moisture. More importantly, all other wipes, conditioners and slickers will mix with moistures, the reason for tackiness as they immediatly start to break down.

(Note: Depending on the amount of oils from your hands and the density of your cue's shaft, sometimes only one SlipStic Conditioner application will last for well over a year, sigh!! This is why some players will seldom apply and think their shaft no longer needs anything. The longest and most effective application is to apply and leave on the cue shaft for 24 hours, yep even fewer applications are then needed.)

 

[9 ball]

This is one thing about pool players that really gets me P****d, why do pool players feel it necessary to take a beautiful hand crafted cue such as a mcdermott, predator etc, and then sand it down until it looks like a peice of crap you'd find at a flea market?.

I myself have had my cues for 2 years and never once thought of taking sand paper to them to "get the shiny crap" off the shaft, I think you lot are just being stupid and picky, if it bothers you that much just wear a glove instead of making a cue go from beautiful to crap in the blink of an eye.

 

[MattRDavis]

I myself have had my cues for 2 years and never once thought of taking sand paper to them to "get the shiny crap" off the shaft, I think you lot are just being stupid and picky, if it bothers you that much just wear a glove instead of making a cue go from beautiful to crap in the blink of an eye.

Get off your high horse.

That "shiny crap" that you refer to is meant to be removed; it's sole purpose is to seal the shaft & prevent warping during the shipping process. A pool cue is a tool & requires maintenance & upkeep just like any other tool.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I've got to go repair my radiator; I just don't understand why it's so difficult, you know? I mean, how am I supposed to unscrew all the bolts with all this shiny packaging around my wrench? I'd take it out, you know, but I don't want to ruin it.

 

[seymore15074]

This is one thing about pool players that really gets me P****d, why do pool players feel it necessary to take a beautiful hand crafted cue such as a mcdermott, predator etc, and then sand it down until it looks like a peice of crap you'd find at a flea market?.

I myself have had my cues for 2 years and never once thought of taking sand paper to them to "get the shiny crap" off the shaft, I think you lot are just being stupid and picky, if it bothers you that much just wear a glove instead of making a cue go from beautiful to crap in the blink of an eye.

Why would I want to take my beautiful hand, and cover it with a glove?! I'm not going to sand my fingers down, so...

I don't even burnish my shafts, I like the feel of freshly sanded wood. Besides, what do you think people are doing taking a belt-sander to their shafts? It's not like you can see the difference from more than 3 feet away...

 

[Hierovision]

I did the OP's suggestion a while ago when I got my new 314-2. Used my q-smooth papers until it was smooth, burnished it, then applied some slipstic and let it sit for about 30 minutes (they say 2-4 minutes is most effective, but I forgot they were sitting out in the other room hehe) before wiping it off with a clean cotton towel. I've put easily 150+ hours of pool on that shaft since then and it's still EXACTLY like it was the first time I used it after applying slipstic. I wipe down my shaft about every other shot with a clean towel, so that definitely helps as well. Smooth as ever.

 

[pete lafond]

I did the OP's suggestion a while ago when I got my new 314-2. Used my q-smooth papers until it was smooth, burnished it, then applied some slipstic and let it sit for about 30 minutes (they say 2-4 minutes is most effective, but I forgot they were sitting out in the other room hehe) before wiping it off with a clean cotton towel. I've put easily 150+ hours of pool on that shaft since then and it's still EXACTLY like it was the first time I used it after applying slipstic. I wipe down my shaft about every other shot with a clean towel, so that definitely helps as well. Smooth as ever.

Thanks> One of the biggest problems we have is that some players have gone for well over a year (1.5 longest yet) and it still is effective. Hard to sell volumes if it lasts so long.

FYI, I now use a microfiber towel to wipe the shaft and it works really well. The trick is that the chalk and grit have a negative charge and the towel generates a positive charge. This means that the particles go deep into the towel rather than staying surface and rubbing them on your cue with a cotton towel. Try it, you can pick one up at the dollar store cheap.

 

[pete lafond]

This is one thing about pool players that really gets me P****d, why do pool players feel it necessary to take a beautiful hand crafted cue such as a mcdermott, predator etc, and then sand it down until it looks like a peice of crap you'd find at a flea market?.

I myself have had my cues for 2 years and never once thought of taking sand paper to them to "get the shiny crap" off the shaft, I think you lot are just being stupid and picky, if it bothers you that much just wear a glove instead of making a cue go from beautiful to crap in the blink of an eye.

The covering on the shaft is for protection during shipping, like a cell phone has a thin film you need to pull off the screen. Without this film on the stick, everyone who handles it will add dirt to it. It is has no other purpose, many high end quality cue makers do not add this film at all because it usually goes from them directly to the buyer. Adding it would otherwise spoil the beauty of the shafts wood.

 

[Handsumm]

This is one thing about pool players that really gets me P****d, why do pool players feel it necessary to take a beautiful hand crafted cue such as a mcdermott, predator etc, and then sand it down until it looks like a peice of crap you'd find at a flea market?.

I myself have had my cues for 2 years and never once thought of taking sand paper to them to "get the shiny crap" off the shaft, I think you lot are just being stupid and picky, if it bothers you that much just wear a glove instead of making a cue go from beautiful to crap in the blink of an eye.

I cannot disagree with you more. Beautiful to crap? I have nothing else to say about that.

 

[Handsumm]

I did the OP's suggestion a while ago when I got my new 314-2. Used my q-smooth papers until it was smooth, burnished it, then applied some slipstic and let it sit for about 30 minutes (they say 2-4 minutes is most effective, but I forgot they were sitting out in the other room hehe) before wiping it off with a clean cotton towel. I've put easily 150+ hours of pool on that shaft since then and it's still EXACTLY like it was the first time I used it after applying slipstic. I wipe down my shaft about every other shot with a clean towel, so that definitely helps as well. Smooth as ever.

Every other shot?! Wow, OCD anyone?

 

[pete lafond]

Every other shot?! Wow, OCD anyone?

Many tour player do, I think it has to do with making sure nothing affects your stroke. Or just a habit.

 

[Omar]

Get off your high horse.

That "shiny crap" that you refer to is meant to be removed; it's sole purpose is to seal the shaft & prevent warping during the shipping process. A pool cue is a tool & requires maintenance & upkeep just like any other tool.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I've got to go repair my radiator; I just don't understand why it's so difficult, you know? I mean, how am I supposed to unscrew all the bolts with all this shiny packaging around my wrench? I'd take it out, you know, but I don't want to ruin it.

Are you sure about that? When I bought my first Scruggs cue, Tim gave me a square piece of felt cloth and told me that all I ever needed to do to care for the cue was wipe it down occasionally. What he didn't say was "Take this home and and sand the sh-t out of it...".

 

[9 ball]

Thank you omar, finally someone understands were i'm coming from.

 

[MattRDavis]

Are you sure about that? When I bought my first Scruggs cue, Tim gave me a square piece of felt cloth and told me that all I ever needed to do to care for the cue was wipe it down occasionally. What he didn't say was "Take this home and and sand the sh-t out of it...".

I'm not sure if you know this or not, but there's quite a difference between a Tim Scruggs custom cue & a McDermott -- or any factory -- cue.

A Scruggs cue is being shipped one time, Priority Mail, packaged by itself & in a relatively controlled way.

A factory cue is being shipped multiple times, ground mail, in bulk.

Of the custom cues I've purchased not a single one has had a protective coating on the shaft. Of the factory cues I've purchased & handled, every single one has had it.

 

[JimS]

Are you sure about that? When I bought my first Scruggs cue, Tim gave me a square piece of felt cloth and told me that all I ever needed to do to care for the cue was wipe it down occasionally. What he didn't say was "Take this home and and sand the sh-t out of it...".

Nobody here has recommended sanding the sh_t out of anything. It was suggested to use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and then a quick sanding with 1000 grit which does not hurt anything.

I find dirt and chalk on the shaft to be bothersome so I followed Pete's suggestions about 2 or 3 years back when he first brought out the Slip Stic. (I even still have the sample bottle he sent me... but I have bought another Pete!)

Having followed those instructions for all this time I can testify that my shafts are consistently clean and slick and almost never need attention other than a wipe down with a microfiber towel and maybe a quick leather burnish. If I play daily for a couple hours I do a re-application of Slip Stic about once a month.

Missed you Pete. In fact some of the folks here were asking about you a week or two ago. Where ever you went... glad you're back and to all who haven't tried I'll testify anytime that Sip Stic is the real deal. I am one over-the-top super-picky-anal-sumbeech and I tried EVERY shaft product out there but I stopped looking once I found Slip Stic.

 

[pete lafond]

Are you sure about that? When I bought my first Scruggs cue, Tim gave me a square piece of felt cloth and told me that all I ever needed to do to care for the cue was wipe it down occasionally. What he didn't say was "Take this home and and sand the sh-t out of it...".

Right, Tim does not treat the shaft with a clear coat. Most top cue makers do not, so no need to remove it. On his cue he uses a wax and then applies SlipStic on it.

Can you post a picture of your cue. I'ld like to see it, he makes some great cues.

 

[Omar]

Nobody here has recommended sanding the sh_t out of anything. It was suggested to use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and then a quick sanding with 1000 grit which does not hurt anything.

I find dirt and chalk on the shaft to be bothersome so I followed Pete's suggestions about 2 or 3 years back when he first brought out the Slip Stic. (I even still have the sample bottle he sent me... but I have bought another Pete!)

Having followed those instructions for all this time I can testify that my shafts are consistently clean and slick and almost never need attention other than a wipe down with a microfiber towel and maybe a quick leather burnish. If I play daily for a couple hours I do a re-application of Slip Stic about once a month.

Missed you Pete. In fact some of the folks here were asking about you a week or two ago. Where ever you went... glad you're back and to all who haven't tried I'll testify anytime that Sip Stic is the real deal. I am one over-the-top super-picky-anal-sumbeech and I tried EVERY shaft product out there but I stopped looking once I found Slip Stic.

Well, actually my comments were not directed at the original post, but rather the one I quoted. It's going to take more than a little sanding with 1000 grit to remove the sealer applied by the manufacturer.

 

[Omar]

I'm not sure if you know this or not, but there's quite a difference between a Tim Scruggs custom cue & a McDermott -- or any factory -- cue.

A Scruggs cue is being shipped one time, Priority Mail, packaged by itself & in a relatively controlled way.

A factory cue is being shipped multiple times, ground mail, in bulk.

Of the custom cues I've purchased not a single one has had a protective coating on the shaft. Of the factory cues I've purchased & handled, every single one has had it.

Yes, I am aware of the difference between these two.

Over the years I have owned a Meucci, a Joss, a Pechauer, a Schon, and a Viking I used as a break cue. These were all purchased new in retail locations or mail order. Surely one of these meet the same criteria as your McDermott example. For the record, none of these came with instructions to peel the skin before use.

Now I have seen cues where the finish was so thick that it pretty much made the shaft unusable, but these were mostly of the Dicks Sporting Goods variety.

 

[pete lafond]

Yes, I am aware of the difference between these two.

Over the years I have owned a Meucci, a Joss, a Pechauer, a Schon, and a Viking I used as a break cue. These were all purchased new in retail locations or mail order. Surely one of these meet the same criteria as your McDermott example. For the record, none of these came with instructions to peel the skin before use.

Now I have seen cues where the finish was so thick that it pretty much made the shaft unusable, but these were mostly of the Dicks Sporting Goods variety.

Right, most have a very thin coat these days. Keeps the shaft clean while potential buyers handles it.

Try the Mr clean pad first though. It raises the broken fibers that are "hair" like. Then sanding will remove them much easier.

 

[JCIN]

This is one thing about pool players that really gets me P****d, why do pool players feel it necessary to take a beautiful hand crafted cue such as a mcdermott, predator etc, and then sand it down until it looks like a peice of crap you'd find at a flea market?.

I myself have had my cues for 2 years and never once thought of taking sand paper to them to "get the shiny crap" off the shaft, I think you lot are just being stupid and picky, if it bothers you that much just wear a glove instead of making a cue go from beautiful to crap in the blink of an eye.

I think you are being "stupid and picky" for talking out of your a$$ about a subject you obviously have no knowledge of what so ever.

I guess every shaft that Joe Blackburn reconditions at pro tournaments all over the country goes from "beautiful to crap" because he uses an abrasive on it. I wonder if all those champions know he turned their cues into crap?

You have had cues for 2 WHOLE years ?????? Wow. Must be a record. What other gems of information can you provide with your vast knowledge and experience with cues?

I normally don't jump on someone who makes a silly post. I do it all the time. But this is not the first time you spouted off rudely with absolutely no merit to your insult.

Oh yeah..while I have owned both Mcdermott and Predator cues and consider them well made for the money, if you really consider them "beautiful" and "hand crafted" you really need to get out more.

 

[Rich93]

Thanks> One of the biggest problems we have is that some players have gone for well over a year (1.5 longest yet) and it still is effective. Hard to sell volumes if it lasts so long.

Pete, is there any difference between SlipStic Conditioner and your all-in-one product on how long it lasts between applications?

FYI, I now use a microfiber towel to wipe the shaft and it works really well. The trick is that the chalk and grit have a negative charge and the towel generates a positive charge. This means that the particles go deep into the towel rather than staying surface and rubbing them on your cue with a cotton towel. Try it, you can pick one up at the dollar store cheap.

Do you recommend using a damp microfiber towel or should it be used dry? Would using a damp towel remove SlipStic conditioner?

Thanks for a great product.