A warp that can only be noticed when rolling the cue back and forth very fast.

J

justinb386

Banned
I purchased this really nice looking Viking cue at a pawn shop today.

Well, I took it to my local bar tonight, and rolled the butt by itself back and forth very slowly, and could barely see the joint come up off of the table (maybe a 10th of an inch I am guessing, but that is just a guess, but it really looked like a very slight roll out in the joint).

Then I rolled the shaft by itself, and the tip remained flat on the table when I rolled it, but there was quite a bit of taper roll out.

Then I rolled the cue together (butt and shaft screwed together), and the warp in the joint looked much more noticeable when rolled together, but the tip still appeared to stay flat on the table when rolled.

Anyways, when rolling the cue really fast back and forth the cue appeared to hop up and down pretty badly, so the warp really looked much worse when I rolled the cue really fast back and forth (it actually looks like the entire cue was bouncing up and down).

I just do not understand why the warp is so hard to see (and looks barely warped at all when rolling the cue very slowly back and forth), but looks so much worse when rolling the cue much quicker back and forth?

Sorry if these are stupid questions.

Just curious about any thoughts on this.

The cue also looks warped when sighting down the cue (held in the air, and looking down it).

Other then using a lathe, what is the best method for seeing how straight a cue is?

I think there are a couple different opinions about this.

Does the cue sound to be worthless, but the sound of what I explained about the way the cue rolls?

Do warped production Viking cues carry any value?

Thanks.
 
Warp

I could be wrong, seems like you could have a facing issue, the butt and shaft joint faces aren't square. I have had this problem on more than one Viking in the past.
 
Anyways, when rolling the cue really fast back and forth the cue appeared to hop up and down pretty badly, so the warp really looked much worse when I rolled the cue really fast back and forth (it actually looks like the entire cue was bouncing up and down).
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1st of all, don't do that anymore, ok. Then it won't look so bad.

2nd. You didn't mention that you rolled just the butt and if the joint moved a bit.

You said that the shaft had a bit of a roll but the tip didn't leave the table. Thats a pretty good thing so far.

Rolling them together, the tip didn't leave the table, so thats even better.

You have nothing to worry about. Of course, no one likes to see even a bit of a roll on any of their shafts but for most of us, its a fact of pool playing, cue owning life.

You bought the cue at a Pawn Shop so there is a chance that the previous owner didn't keep everything nice and clean.

If you have the least little bit of dirt, chalk, what ever, on the face of either joint, that can make your shaft look like its got the nastiest roll to it.

Have a look and see. Even if there isn't anything totally visible to your eye, take a paper towel, wet it with a bit of alcohol, vodka or isopropyl etc, and give it a wipe.

If there is a bit of visible grime on the faces, you can do that plus use your finger nail to remove any of it.

Then re check the cue again.
 
The 1/10th inch rollout at the joint is probably a warp coming from the handle, also very common with old Vikings.
I would not spend any money on facing, I doubt facing is the problem, just get a good tip, clean the cue up and play with it.
 
Here is a youtube video that I just finished uploading to youtube (showing how the cue rolls together and apart). Thanks for looking, and thanks for any opinions about the warp.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FS6OG2xcqy8&feature=youtu.be

I paid $140 for the cue. Is it junk, and not worth anywhere near what I paid for it? Please be honest in your opinion. Thanks.

Poolhalljunkie said:
I could be wrong, seems like you could have a facing issue, the butt and shaft joint faces aren't square. I have had this problem on more than one Viking in the past.
Click to expand...
 
Beer for my horses. Yippe Kai Yay. Willie probably fed them more than just hay.

They were Happy Ponies.

Anyway, as much as I would like to tell you that the warp in your butt might be caused by an uneven wrap, I can't. Looks like the butt is warped close to the joint.

Your shaft also has an extra nasty roll. As Cues mentioned to you, retip it and have fun using it.

$140. For a double warped cue. Sorry, I'm not quite so sure that $140 would have been a deal on the cue even if it was dead straight. Doesn't look like an older model to me.
 
I guess this is an expensive lesson to not buy pool cues at pawn shops. Does sighting down the cue work as a good test to see if a cue is pretty or fairly straight, or what do you guys do when shopping for cues at a pawn shop? I will try my best to get a refund. Thanks for your help.

cuesblues said:
That cue is real bouncy, I would return it for an in-store pawn shop credit.
Click to expand...
 
Yeah, well I am just not too bright about buying cues. I was without a cue, and really wanted to get one for a tournament I wanted to play in, and it was all I could find. There is a plain jane Joss at this other pawn shop for $130? Fair deal? Not sure if it will be straight either. Also seen a really old window Viking with a piloted joint (and it has a huge pilot on the shaft pilot). Never seen a pilot that big before (and not on a Viking). Sorry for going completely off subject. Also found a plain jane Will Adcock cue for $140, but I have no idea what his cues are worth.

Blue Hog ridr said:
Beer for my horses. Yippe Kai Yay. Willie probably fed them more than just hay.

They were Happy Ponies.

Anyway, as much as I would like to tell you that the warp in your butt might be caused by an uneven wrap, I can't. Looks like the butt is warped close to the joint.

Your shaft also has an extra nasty roll. As Cues mentioned to you, retip it and have fun using it.

$140. For a double warped cue. Sorry, I'm not quite so sure that $140 would have been a deal on the cue even if it was dead straight. Doesn't look like an older model to me.
Click to expand...
 
I only watched 30 seconds of that video and I'll tell you that cue is only good for firewood. A slight lift at the joint is one thing, but when you can see the pin bob up and down like that, no bueno.

Search around the wanted/for sale forum here, there are good sneaky pete's and plain janes by reputable makers that can be found for under 300. Also, if you're on facebook, join the "open billiards market" group. Good deals on there all the time.

*edit: I just watched the rest of the video. That cue is in bad shape. My opinion, if the pawn shop won't take it back, donate it to a youngster learning to play the game. That way you can turn a loss into a good investment.
 
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I have a millennium series Viking. It does the same thing. You can't really notice it on a pool table, but on a flat hard top table you can see it. The shaft by itself is perfect. The butt does some wobbling though. Thought about sending it to Viking as I am the original owner, but it really isn't that bad. It plays very well.

Without seeing the video, my suggestion is to use the cue, but don't give the wobble any thought. Just forget you know about it and play the crap out of it. It could still turn out to be the best cue that you will ever own.
 
Will Adcock is from Evansville. He used to hang here but haven't seen him in some time.

I had a couple of his cues and for that price, is worth the money. They play nice and you would consider them to be more of a custom.

Most Pawn shops have glass display cases. Hopefully you can find one that will fit the cue to roll it on. I would see if you can return it. Just tell the guy that you paid for a pool cue, not a pretzel.

Or if they have the Adcock cue, ask for a straight up trade in. I would offer the guy $100 for the Adcock and see what he says. Then maybe $120 and if it rolls ok, you will have a nicer player than the Viking.
 
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Blue Hog ridr said:
Beer for my horses. Yippe Kai Yay. Willie probably fed them more than just hay.

They were Happy Ponies.

Anyway, as much as I would like to tell you that the warp in your butt might be caused by an uneven wrap, I can't. Looks like the butt is warped close to the joint.

Your shaft also has an extra nasty roll. As Cues mentioned to you, retip it and have fun using it.

$140. For a double warped cue. Sorry, I'm not quite so sure that $140 would have been a deal on the cue even if it was dead straight. Doesn't look like an older model to me.
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Too much wobble to be a wrap problem.
The finger joint between the handle and forearm ( Viking joins their cues that way ) makes their cues susceptible to warpage imo.
They are finger-jointed while square then turn round together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=HrceEGmUgRM#t=25
 
Thanks. Maybe I will try to get that Adcock if I can get a refund, because the Adcock is actually at a different pawn shop. Thanks for your replies. The Viking looked really horrible when I rolled it on the display case at the pawn shop, but I thought that maybe the display case just was not level. I did this after purchasing it too (stupid me, lol), but the guy told me to bring it back tomorrow if I was unhappy with it. I hope he will give me a refund, because there is nothing in that place that I would want on store credit.

Blue Hog ridr said:
Will Adcock is from Evansville. He used to hang here but haven't seen him in some time.

I had a couple of his cues and for that price, is worth the money. They play nice and you would consider them to be more of a custom.

Most Pawn shops have glass display cases. Hopefully you can find one that will fit the cue to roll it on. I would see if you can return it. Just tell the guy that you paid for a pool cue, not a pretzel.

Or if they have the Adcock cue, ask for a straight up trade in. I would offer the guy $100 for the Adcock and see what he says. Then maybe $120 and if it rolls ok, you will have a nicer player than the Viking.
Click to expand...
 
justinb386 said:
I guess this is an expensive lesson to not buy pool cues at pawn shops. Does sighting down the cue work as a good test to see if a cue is pretty or fairly straight, or what do you guys do when shopping for cues at a pawn shop? I will try my best to get a refund. Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...


You have to roll them on a pool table.
I could usually tell rolling the cue on the glass, but it has been years since I've bought a pool cue in a pawn shop.
There are people who pick up some good deals at pawn shops, but if you're going to spend $140 on a pawn shop Viking,
you have to make sure it's straight.
Store credits blow

I think if you are willing to spend $140 in a pawn shop, you should be willing to spend a little more here on AZ to get something
nice, that is straight.
 
For a player it is fine because the tip does not leave the table and I will feel okay shooting with it but for resale a warp in the butt is no good for most buyers even if it is playable.
 
Warps and bumps

justinb386 said:
I purchased this really nice looking Viking cue at a pawn shop today.

Well, I took it to my local bar tonight, and rolled the butt by itself back and forth very slowly, and could barely see the joint come up off of the table (maybe a 10th of an inch I am guessing, but that is just a guess, but it really looked like a very slight roll out in the joint).

Then I rolled the shaft by itself, and the tip remained flat on the table when I rolled it, but there was quite a bit of taper roll out.

Then I rolled the cue together (butt and shaft screwed together), and the warp in the joint looked much more noticeable when rolled together, but the tip still appeared to stay flat on the table when rolled.

Anyways, when rolling the cue really fast back and forth the cue appeared to hop up and down pretty badly, so the warp really looked much worse when I rolled the cue really fast back and forth (it actually looks like the entire cue was bouncing up and down).

I just do not understand why the warp is so hard to see (and looks barely warped at all when rolling the cue very slowly back and forth), but looks so much worse when rolling the cue much quicker back and forth?

Sorry if these are stupid questions.

Just curious about any thoughts on this.

The cue also looks warped when sighting down the cue (held in the air, and looking down it).

Other then using a lathe, what is the best method for seeing how straight a cue is?

I think there are a couple different opinions about this.

Does the cue sound to be worthless, but the sound of what I explained about the way the cue rolls?

Do warped production Viking cues carry any value?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

If you drive your car rapidly down a bumpy road, it will feel bumpier than if you drive slowly, because the car will bounce higher. Same for the table and the cue.
 
Justin, please give me a call. My contact information can be found on my website. It's true Adcock has quit pool business but we can help you out.

We're you at river city last weekend? I heard someone was looking for me by the name of Justin and thought it might be you.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, I mention your name a lot (asking about you, and where you shoot at). Been wanting to see you shoot, and maybe play you some for a long time. Do not have money for lessons, but it would be nice to shoot some with you. Is that River City Eagles? Yeah, I was there and played in a couple of these little race to 1 8 ball tournaments that they had.

boyersj said:
Justin, please give me a call. My contact information can be found on my website. It's true Adcock has quit pool business but we can help you out.

We're you at river city last weekend? I heard someone was looking for me by the name of Justin and thought it might be you.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
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