accuracy of Hightower Deluxe is superb

JoeyInCali said:
You're better off marking chuck number one then make your own collets .
If you're not making your own collets, you deserve all the trouble.

For collars, you're better off using a router and a good spiral end mill.
Angle the tool post to match half the taper of the shaft and butt .
Usually .007" per inch would be good enough as .014" taper is the cookie-cutter taper .
Drill the hole then route the finish size at the angle needed. Slowly move that router to the wall and route that hole with an angle.
Mark where chuck one was.
Cut the slit near that chuck mark. Go back to it every time you use your collet . Move it around if needed.
Click to expand...

Both Joey and Kim are dead nutz about getting dead nutz. After following what they say get some dowel wood at Home Depot and practice doing holes and threading as you tweak yourself to a point that both ends screw in and marry perfect. This thread should be a standard for tweaking your Taig type lathe. My hats off to what they both shared.
 
Dirtbmw20 said:
Is this with a 3 or 4 jaw chuck ???

Concerning where you put the t-bars, on mine, the left side has 3 holes, the right side (the side the jaws are on) has 4 holes.

Sent from my SCH-I535
Click to expand...

It's a 3 jaw on a Hightower deluxe. There are 3 holes on the headstock side of the chuck........ those are the holes I am talking about.

Kim
 
A dial indicator is your best friend for eliminating run out. Another trick that works when doing joint work and such is to put the dial indicator in and just push on the high side of the cue with your thumb while chucked up. 90% of the time no shimming will be needed as you can get it within a half thou just by doing that and then snug it up some more. A chuck can run dead true and still chuck up off center. That is just he nature of things. So a little push or two will often get it centered just right. It is not just on small chucks that do this. I have a large metal lathe that I do metal work on that runs out less than .001" and I can put round steel in it and see noticeable wobble. Then I can loosen the chuck rotate the piece slowly and tighten it while doing so and it will get dead true.
 
This is definitely one of those topics I need a "visual" on our someone to actually show me with hands on experience. On something I have never seen or encountered before, an actual "demostration" is probably the most helpful thing to me.
 
whammo57 said:
I will let you in in a little secret that I learned after a year of fighting the wobble/run out in the scroll chuck. I would put in the dead center and it I could see the point moving. An indicator showed about 15 thou run out at the tip. I recut/trued up the chuck jaws many times to no avail.

Scroll chucks are not noted for their accuracy and .001 to .002 run out is common even when spinning true.

There is another little known fact about scroll chucks. The 3 holes that you put your tommy bar in to tighten it clamp differently. Put the center in the chuck and put an indicator on it. Run the spindle on the slowest speed and watch the indicator.

Mark the 3 holes in the chuck with a marker 1, 2, 3. Tighten and and loosen the chuck while watching the indicator. (turn the lathe off each time) You will find one of the holes consistantly runs the center truer than the other 2 holes.

Because of this, I never need to use paper to shim anything except a warped cue. I can always find one of the holes to make most anything run true with a little play of turning the shaft a 1/4 turn and re clamping and/or using another hole to clamp the chuck ......and reading the indicator.

try it you will see.........

Kim
Click to expand...

I had a similar problem with my rear three jaw cheap chuck, one jaw #2 was consistently off...after doing most of the things you did I permanentely glued a shim unto...:) no more papers or turning the stock to get it just right.

Mario

Mario
 
Get Hightower dvd and watch him

Get Hightower dvd and watch him


Dirtbmw20 said:
This is definitely one of those topics I need a "visual" on our someone to actually show me with hands on experience. On something I have never seen or encountered before, an actual "demostration" is probably the most helpful thing to me.
Click to expand...
 
oke doke

oke doke.................


cueman said:
A dial indicator is your best friend for eliminating run out. Another trick that works when doing joint work and such is to put the dial indicator in and just push on the high side of the cue with your thumb while chucked up. 90% of the time no shimming will be needed as you can get it within a half thou just by doing that and then snug it up some more. A chuck can run dead true and still chuck up off center. That is just he nature of things. So a little push or two will often get it centered just right. It is not just on small chucks that do this. I have a large metal lathe that I do metal work on that runs out less than .001" and I can put round steel in it and see noticeable wobble. Then I can loosen the chuck rotate the piece slowly and tighten it while doing so and it will get dead true.
Click to expand...
 
I have been spoilt with high end chucks that have repeatability better than 0.01mm ,but they cost a lot of money.
What Chris is referring to to will help to counteract the swash that occurs in the taig type chucks.
 
cueman said:
A dial indicator is your best friend for eliminating run out. Another trick that works when doing joint work and such is to put the dial indicator in and just push on the high side of the cue with your thumb while chucked up. 90% of the time no shimming will be needed as you can get it within a half thou just by doing that and then snug it up some more. A chuck can run dead true and still chuck up off center. That is just he nature of things. So a little push or two will often get it centered just right. It is not just on small chucks that do this. I have a large metal lathe that I do metal work on that runs out less than .001" and I can put round steel in it and see noticeable wobble. Then I can loosen the chuck rotate the piece slowly and tighten it while doing so and it will get dead true.
Click to expand...
Chris,
I showed Bill the same thing, except I indicate from the front of the lathe and pull the drive center from low to high. It's a little easier for me it seems that way. Your dial indicator on a toolpost holder is something I wouldn't live without anymore.

Thanks much,
Alan Phelps
 
measuring with verniers

the kidd said:
Cant even measure with my Verners never could
Click to expand...

Nobody can measure well at the start. I worked in the rubber hose industry for three years, everyone in the plant had a different reading on the i.d. or o.d. of a hose. The trick is get a feel for it and use YOUR own feel, and don't compare to other people. This way you'll always know if your work is over or under a thou or whatever.
my opinion anyhow.
Bill
 
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Gizmos

JoeyInCali said:
Here's my fancy indicator.
Half a thou per click. Not one thou.
I glued a wooden disc at the bottom.
Them two earth magnets.
Voila, will stick to the tool post , with or without the tool holder or tool bit, your choice
I don't like the big ones with one thou per click display.

This one gets me accuracy.
It'd be your choice what accuracy you want before turning or facing.

I have other gizmos to help.
Click to expand...

What other gizmos do you have? Wanna sell anything? I am a buyer of stuff. I buy everything....Nuts /???
 
sticking around

Dirtbmw20 said:
Hello Bill,

Glad you sticking around, I can always use another person to learn from,lol.

I'm with everyone else in the thread, we all wanna know what you learned and what was done. :)
Click to expand...


Thanks a lot, made me feel appreciated...lol
 
JoeyInCali said:
Here's my fancy indicator.
Half a thou per click. Not one thou.
I glued a wooden disc at the bottom.
Them two earth magnets.
Voila, will stick to the tool post , with or without the tool holder or tool bit, your choice
I don't like the big ones with one thou per click display.

This one gets me accuracy.
It'd be your choice what accuracy you want before turning or facing.

I have other gizmos to help.
Click to expand...


Joey,

You're gonna hate me!

http://www.shars.com/products/view/1435/Magnetic_Indicator_Back
 
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