Advice on buying and moving a used pool table.

I have moved my Gold Crown III four or five times. Took it across country one year for my kids to use.

From the photo posted I would check the rails to make sure they bounce right. Make sure you have all of the parts and check against the assembly manual. You can get a manual online if the owner doesn't have one. Make sure that none of the threads are cross threaded where bolts connect.

If you replace the bed cloth, replace the rail cloth as well. It is no more difficult than replacing the bed cloth. If you check around online you can save quite a bit buying new cloth from a good dealer. It usually comes with rail cloth and that is what you should buy.

Consider getting a small hand held metal brake tool from Home Depot for accurately stretching the bed cloth.

You can move the table with a Dodge Caravan. All of the pieces will fit in one run. I use packing blankets (or similar) between the pieces of slate (lay slate flat in the van). In the past I have used cardboard between the slate with no problem. You do need a blanket on top of the last piece of slate. This keeps the rails etc. from damaging the slate during transit. Just be careful. It take two men to carry the slate.

Store the slate flat when you get it home. This keeps the edges from getting small cracks. If chips or cracks develop use Bondo to fill and sand with a finish sander.

With two men here are my estimates:

Dis assemble and load in Dodge Caravan about two hours.

Reassemble about four hours including leveling.

Install bed cloth about two (maybe three) hours depending on your experience

Install rail cloth about three hours (lots of staples).

It is best to have help from someone who has done this before to avoid stupid mistakes the first time, like bumping the slate on corners etc.

$400 is an excellent price. I sold my 25 year old GC III for $1,000 when I retired to Florida about four years ago.

Thanks for the thorough info. I'll keep it in mind.
 
Yeah I don't think the slate is actually in the photo...
Looks like the rails are just laid out on top of the cloth.
As mentioned above, it would be practically impossible to remove just the slate and rails together...

Plan on replacing the cloth. You do not want to re-use that cloth.

Obviously check the slates for cracks or major damage. If cracked, don't buy it.
Scratches and pits can easily be fixed. Cracks are much harder to deal with.

Check for stripped nuts bolts and threads, especially on the bottom side of the rails and where the legs bolt to the frame.

Check where the pockets insert into the rails. If the wood is chewed up or cracked, don't buy it.

Check slate support beams for cracks and warpage

Check all legs and frame pieces for cracks or damage. If cracked, don't buy it.

If you do purchase it, store it somewhere with a steady temp. And protect it from direct sun and water. If you store the slate horizontally, only do so on a hard perfectly flat surface or you might warp slate. Otherwise store slates standing up.

I was questioning whether the slate was under there too; something I won't know for sure 'till tonight. Thanks for the heads up on stuff to look for. This is all really useful stuff. I'll post my findings/pics later this evening.
 
It still sounds like I could save myself a chunk of money with a scenario like this. Even if I were to find a new table for 1200, I'd still have to pay for shipping and set-up, right?

No, if you buy a new table set up is included as is shipping.... you are at their store, they certainly are not going to charge you to get it shipped, that is on them.

They will charge you to upgrade to a better cloth, and you really should pay it :)
 
I was questioning whether the slate was under there too; something I won't know for sure 'till tonight. Thanks for the heads up on stuff to look for. This is all really useful stuff. I'll post my findings/pics later this evening.

To much is uncertain here. I'd rather buy a table that is together, and not apart. You won't really know about the "missing" parts, bolts, etc until your guy starts putting it together.

At least low ball this guy,, don't look like there is a line camped out, and that is what you do when buying used furniture... you pay pennies on the dollar... it's used, scratched, and who knows what else.....that's why old pool tables are tough to sell...

Heck, when I get my new Diamond table, I'm just figuring on giving my table away just to save the expense of disassemble, moving, and storing....
 
To much is uncertain here. I'd rather buy a table that is together, and not apart. You won't really know about the "missing" parts, bolts, etc until your guy starts putting it together.

At least low ball this guy,, don't look like there is a line camped out, and that is what you do when buying used furniture... you pay pennies on the dollar... it's used, scratched, and who knows what else.....that's why old pool tables are tough to sell...

Heck, when I get my new Diamond table, I'm just figuring on giving my table away just to save the expense of disassemble, moving, and storing....

I agree with this, too many uncertainty's at this point. At the very least that is not a picture of a professionally disassembled slate table. The rails should be separate from the slate, usually the pockets are separated from the rails, the cloth has been removed yada yada yada. As it is in that pic I would not want to move it at all.......even for free.
 
To much is uncertain here. I'd rather buy a table that is together, and not apart. You won't really know about the "missing" parts, bolts, etc until your guy starts putting it together.

At least low ball this guy,, don't look like there is a line camped out, and that is what you do when buying used furniture... you pay pennies on the dollar... it's used, scratched, and who knows what else.....that's why old pool tables are tough to sell...

Heck, when I get my new Diamond table, I'm just figuring on giving my table away just to save the expense of disassemble, moving, and storing....

i will take that 7' diamond ok
 
Okay, sorry for taking a while for the update, but I have been moving.

The short version of the story is I decided not to get this particular table.

I went to see the table and I wasn't all that impressed with the way it looked. The nail in the coffin to me was looking at the accessory rack as I walked out. Pretty much all the cues had broken/missing tips.

Also, the room I *thought* I'd put it in probably won't work, but since I won't really need a dining room, I'm shuffling rooms around to make it work.

Thanks for all your help guys. I have a much better sense of how this will all pan out now.
 
You can try Carmen Lombardo owner of Crown Billiards in Pompton Lakes. He may have some tables in storage.
 
I'm in Elizabeth, NJ. I've checked local listings. Haven't come across anyone who was looking to get rid of a pool table like that outright, but then again, I have just been looking for tables for sale. I'll keep an eye out for stuff like that. In the meantime, any suggestions are more than welcome.

Thanks in advance!

I check craigslist daily for tables. I see at least a few a month.
 
Soooo.... I'm in the house now and got to take measurements. My original thought was to put a table in the basement, but it's a little less than ideal because it's a little short of the recommended size for an 8' table, it has a pair of lally poles that would interfere, and the floor feels a bit sloped as you move closer to the bottom wall.

I started looking at other rooms and decided the living room might actually be a more comfortable place to put it, but once I measured it, it came up even shorter than the basement on measurements. There are two 6 foot archways that open up to the foyer and dining area (repurposed to the living room, in this scenario) that would give breathing room for shots, but I'm still skeptical of putting an 8 footer in there.

The way I see it, I'd put the foot of the table close to the open archway, but I'd hate to get a table in there only to be frustrated with playing on it.

I wish there was some way I could figure out how an 8' would feel in there before I bought it lol... which is why I'm doing the closest thing to that, and posting here.

Does anyone have any experience playing on a table in a room that is less-than-ideal size? Should I even consider an 8' table? According to the info I've read the living room still falls short even for a 7' table.

I've attached diagrams of the rooms - the basement is the square 15x14 room. It's not completely enclosed/square like that but the areas where there is breathing room are at one side/corner of where a table would go, so it's somewhat negligible.

Thoughts?
 
If these are the only spaces you have available, (no garage, no possibility of tearing down a wall, etc, or moving again!, lol)...

Some people with limited space have put a table against a wall as an extreme. This table then is only useful for drills and practice shots.

You should draw the table in, and then draw a border around it at a 60" distance from the playing surface. The border should have rounded corners with their center at the corner pockets. This will represent the end of the cue for a 58" cue + a 2" backstroke. Then draw a few more borders using the same technique but adjust the cue length to represent using a short cue. Make the table and borders all one "assembly" on the CAD program, so you can move it around as a single entity.

Do this for a 7' table first, and then an 8' if you like what you see.

Then, move it around your space, considering your openings, to see what location would give the optimal space for "most" shots.
 
Attached is a CAD model I made for my friend when he asked me to see if a table would fit in his place. Feel free to steal from it:)

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