aiming (the technique I was tought)

[microterf]

I was reading through some of the "aiming" post, and didn't have time to read a 17 page post, I just thought I'd share the aiming system that I use, it's the only part of my game that I can confidently say I'm happy with. I'm not sure what you would call it, but I just say it's connecting the dots (which it is for the most part). The contact point is obviously where you would hit the object ball with your cue if you don't have to hit the cue ball into it first, to get the correct contact you would make a parallel line through the object ball and the cue ball. then all you have to do is to connect the point of contact on the object ball with the point of contact on the cue ball (which will be exactly opposite where the point of contact on the object ball is) and if you stroke through dead center, you'd never miss a shot. (Obviously there are a lot of factors like squirt, english, and human error that you have to adjust for) I encourage anyone to try it out, it improved my shot making 10 fold on hard shots. I hope someone might benefit from it. Now if someone would teach me some speed control and cue ball control I might turn into a half decent player one day

 

[3kushn]

Practice lagging the CB to specific areas of the table not just all the way back to the rail. Practice this on the same table. Get it down on that table and you'll easily know all tables.

 

[Patrick Johnson]

... you would make a parallel line through the object ball and the cue ball.

This is a well-known way of aligning the cue ball and object ball contact points. It's called "paralleling", and is one of the few accurate ways of doing that (you might be surprised how many inaccurate ways there are). Other accurate ways are "ghost ball" (visualizing the cue ball sitting where you want it to be when it contacts the object ball) and "overlapping" (centering the object ball contact point between the overlapping edges of the cue ball and object ball).

... if you stroke through dead center, you'd never miss a shot. (Obviously there are a lot of factors like squirt, english, and human error that you have to adjust for)

Yep, this is where aiming gets messy - it's the great aiming challenge to factor these variables into your shots. Squirt and english are really the same topic, which also includes "throw" (the object ball doesn't really go exactly in the direction the contact point indicates). As for human error, if you can figure out how to adjust for that you'll get rich.

Now if someone would teach me some speed control and cue ball control I might turn into a half decent player one day

Don't be so modest - I bet you're half decent already. But nobody can teach you speed control; that's something you can only learn by hitting hundreds of shots and paying attention to how far the cue ball goes. There are some important things to learn about other aspects of cue ball control - I'd start by noticing what angle the cue ball goes after hitting an object ball with "natural roll" and learning about the importance of stop shots and the "tangent line" (the 90-degree initial path the cue ball takes momentarily after hitting an object ball - you can make it stay on this path with "stop shot english", better known as "stun").

pj
chgo

 

[Joe T]

I was reading through some of the "aiming" post, and didn't have time to read a 17 page post, I just thought I'd share the aiming system that I use, it's the only part of my game that I can confidently say I'm happy with. I'm not sure what you would call it, but I just say it's connecting the dots (which it is for the most part). The contact point is obviously where you would hit the object ball with your cue if you don't have to hit the cue ball into it first, to get the correct contact you would make a parallel line through the object ball and the cue ball. then all you have to do is to connect the point of contact on the object ball with the point of contact on the cue ball (which will be exactly opposite where the point of contact on the object ball is) and if you stroke through dead center, you'd never miss a shot. (Obviously there are a lot of factors like squirt, english, and human error that you have to adjust for) I encourage anyone to try it out, it improved my shot making 10 fold on hard shots. I hope someone might benefit from it. Now if someone would teach me some speed control and cue ball control I might turn into a half decent player one day

This is my method to a T but I labeled the matching cps with matching numbers to help make it easier to repeatedly pick them out and match them up. Two of the reasons I came up with my method is because I once read Willie Mosconi use to match up the cps and I learned equal but opposite from Jimmy Reid..

 

[acedotcom]

If you had read the other post, you would've found that this basic method was covered.

 

[microterf]

Yeah, I thought it might have been covered, but I had just seen the first 2 pages of it, and I didn't see anything close to it. I will try the lagging around the table to get speed control down.

...as for being a decent player. I'm trying to work on it, when I was in Korea with the Army, I did nothing but play pool on my time off, but when I got back to the states wife put and end to that fast. Divorced now, so trying to get re-married to pool. I can beat most people easily, but get killed against most real pool players (if that makes sense)

 

[av84fun]

Now if someone would teach me some speed control and cue ball control I might turn into a half decent player one day

CB Speed

1. Place an CB 2 diamonds below the right side pocket (looking from the foot end) and 1 thumb width (not length) off the rail.

2. Place the OB in front of the side pocket the same 3/4 inch from the "rail." Of course there is no rail there but just set of for a straight in shot.

3. Shoot the down the rail shot attempting to carry the CB in one diamond increments. 4 diamonds = the head rail.

4. For the 1 diamond distance, some part of the CB must be on the "string" line for that diamond to count.

5. For the next 3 lengths the CB must stop within 1 ball width on either side of the string line...i.e. a 2 ball width tolerance.

6. A 5 diamond length = a 1 diamond rebound off the head rail...still the same error tolerance. (and for 5-7 you have to move the CB SLIGHTLY closer to the rail so you can get to the head rail without scratching.

7. for the 6-7 diamond distances i.e. 2 and 3 diamonds back off the head rail, allow 1/2 diamond tolerance. Beyond 7 diamonds is not very practical for a straight in shot.

8. Start out by doing the distances consecutively. Once you have mastered those distances begin to mix it up...Do a 1 diamond length...then 3 then 6 then 2 etc.

9. Once you have those mastered, move the OB a ball width off the rail and then 2 ball widths in which case your "1 speed" will actually carry the CB over a longer distance. Get used to that. Always think in terms of your "basic" speed numbers. For example, my "1 speed" with the OB a ball width off the rail goes about 1 3/4 diamond distance and my "2 speed" goes about 4 diamonds. REMEMBER those distances are on an angle away from the rail so counting diamonds doesn't work. You have to use your cue stick to measure the distance and then hold it over the diamonds. But soon you will be able to SEE 2 diamonds etc. without having to measure.

10. Finally, move the OB 2 balls widths and repeat.

This drill has helped me considerably. I haven't shot the drill for a while since I "take it to the table" every day but just went to my table and shot my 7 speed missing by a full diamond on the first try and by 2 ball widths the second (those were the first two shots I shot today...and did it with no warm up.)

But you have to really COMMIT to this drill...like any other. You will find that your consecutive speeds will come fairly quickly up to the 4 speed but when you start mixing the speeds up it gets pretty frustrating.

I would guesstimate that in a month of doing this drill DAILY for a half hour you will have the 1-4 speeds pretty well nailed. Just figure what it would be worth to you to be able to roll the CB 51 inches (4 diamonds) and stop it within a 4 inch tolerance (which is only 2 inches on either side of your target) which is the MAXIMUM error. More often than not you will cut that error factor in half...up to the 4 speed. But with some frequency, you will hit your 6-7 targets on or almost on the string line at which time you can practice your fist pump in the mirror!! (-:

Hope this helps.

Jim

 

[microterf]

Thanks a million Jim, I printed that off, and I plan on running the drill tomorrow. I've always loved drills and am always open to new suggestions. Thanks again,

Richard

 

[av84fun]

Thanks a million Jim, I printed that off, and I plan on running the drill tomorrow. I've always loved drills and am always open to new suggestions. Thanks again,

Richard

RICHARD!!! I screwed up!! I was mixing the set up of another down the rail drill with this one. Here are the corrections. I also edited the original post. Hope you see this before you shoot the drill. Sorry to cost you more printer ink!!

1. Place an CB 2 diamonds below the right side pocket (looking from the foot end) and 1 thumb width (not length) off the rail.

2. Place the OB in front of the side pocket the same 3/4 inch from the "rail." Of course there is no rail there but just set of for a straight in shot.

 

[pdcue]

Does this sound....

This is a well-known way of aligning the cue ball and object ball contact points. It's called "paralleling", and is one of the few accurate ways of doing that (you might be surprised how many inaccurate ways there are). Other accurate ways are "ghost ball" (visualizing the cue ball sitting where you want it to be when it contacts the object ball) and "overlapping" (centering the object ball contact point between the overlapping edges of the cue ball and object ball).



Yep, this is where aiming gets messy - it's the great aiming challenge to factor these variables into your shots. Squirt and english are really the same topic, which also includes "throw" (the object ball doesn't really go exactly in the direction the contact point indicates). As for human error, if you can figure out how to adjust for that you'll get rich.



Don't be so modest - I bet you're half decent already. But nobody can teach you speed control; that's something you can only learn by hitting hundreds of shots and paying attention to how far the cue ball goes. There are some important things to learn about other aspects of cue ball control - I'd start by noticing what angle the cue ball goes after hitting an object ball with "natural roll" and learning about the importance of stop shots and the "tangent line" (the 90-degree initial path the cue ball takes momentarily after hitting an object ball - you can make it stay on this path with "stop shot english", better known as "stun").

pj
chgo

So now you know what parallel aimming is.
When did you learn, yesterday?

Dale<who was never fooled for a nanosec>

 

[pdcue]

Yeah, I thought it might have been covered, but I had just seen the first 2 pages of it, and I didn't see anything close to it. I will try the lagging around the table to get speed control down.

...as for being a decent player. I'm trying to work on it, when I was in Korea with the Army, I did nothing but play pool on my time off, but when I got back to the states wife put and end to that fast. Divorced now, so trying to get re-married to pool. I can beat most people easily, but get killed against most real pool players (if that makes sense)

Makes perfect sense to me.

Re speed control:

You have some good advice already, but,
do a search for 'L drill' - it is a structured exercise that combines
pocketing and position that can add tons to your control.

Bob Jewett has many times posted the link to his site, there
is a wealth of good info, helpful and well presented.

Good luck,
Dale Pierce

 

[Patrick Johnson]

So now you know what parallel aimming is.
When did you learn, yesterday?

Dale<who was never fooled for a nanosec>

In the (poll) thread you're thinking of I objected to parallel aiming being included on a list of squirt compensation methods. You might notice that my list is a list of aiming methods. When will you learn this distinction - today?

pj <who thinks you still fool yourself>
chgo

 

[Bigjohn]

I was reading through some of the "aiming" post, and didn't have time to read a 17 page post, I just thought I'd share the aiming system that I use, it's the only part of my game that I can confidently say I'm happy with. I'm not sure what you would call it, but I just say it's connecting the dots (which it is for the most part). The contact point is obviously where you would hit the object ball with your cue if you don't have to hit the cue ball into it first, to get the correct contact you would make a parallel line through the object ball and the cue ball. then all you have to do is to connect the point of contact on the object ball with the point of contact on the cue ball (which will be exactly opposite where the point of contact on the object ball is) and if you stroke through dead center, you'd never miss a shot. (Obviously there are a lot of factors like squirt, english, and human error that you have to adjust for) I encourage anyone to try it out, it improved my shot making 10 fold on hard shots. I hope someone might benefit from it. Now if someone would teach me some speed control and cue ball control I might turn into a half decent player one day

Ever have any problems hitting the spot you are looking at with the cue ball?

 

[av84fun]

Patrick...

But nobody can teach you speed control; that's something you can only learn by hitting hundreds of shots and paying attention to how far the cue ball goes.

Actually, that is not correct. As is the case with virtually every discipline in pool, those with the knowledge CAN teach others how to acquire skills more rapidly and and often with more precision than trying to bang it out yourself by trial and error.

Cue ball management, being one of the most important skills in pool, can and IS being taught.

Regards,
Jim

 

[Patrick Johnson]

Me:
... nobody can teach you speed control; that's something you can only learn by hitting hundreds of shots and paying attention to how far the cue ball goes.

av84fun:
... As is the case with virtually every discipline in pool, those with the knowledge CAN teach others how to acquire skills more rapidly and and often with more precision than trying to bang it out yourself by trial and error.

Good point. Although there are no speed control techniques or systems that can be taught (that I know of), there are good drills and practice methods for it that can be taught.

pj
chgo

 

[Bob Jewett]

... Although there are no speed control techniques or systems that can be taught (that I know of), there are good drills and practice methods for it that can be taught. ...

A standard technique that is perhaps most important at balkline is adjustment of the bridge length to adjust the speed of the shot. Bridge lengths down to less than two inches are used in that game. That particular technique seems to be unused as snooker where most of the players seem to have only one bridge length. But I agree that learning control mostly depends on drills and practice methods. One method that you can make part of your regular play is to pick a specific spot for position -- "on that chalk smudge three inches below the head spot" and not "somewhere on that side of the table for the seven."

 

[SCCues]

Great post

This is a well-known way of aligning the cue ball and object ball contact points. It's called "paralleling", and is one of the few accurate ways of doing that (you might be surprised how many inaccurate ways there are). Other accurate ways are "ghost ball" (visualizing the cue ball sitting where you want it to be when it contacts the object ball) and "overlapping" (centering the object ball contact point between the overlapping edges of the cue ball and object ball).



Yep, this is where aiming gets messy - it's the great aiming challenge to factor these variables into your shots. Squirt and english are really the same topic, which also includes "throw" (the object ball doesn't really go exactly in the direction the contact point indicates). As for human error, if you can figure out how to adjust for that you'll get rich.



Don't be so modest - I bet you're half decent already. But nobody can teach you speed control; that's something you can only learn by hitting hundreds of shots and paying attention to how far the cue ball goes. There are some important things to learn about other aspects of cue ball control - I'd start by noticing what angle the cue ball goes after hitting an object ball with "natural roll" and learning about the importance of stop shots and the "tangent line" (the 90-degree initial path the cue ball takes momentarily after hitting an object ball - you can make it stay on this path with "stop shot english", better known as "stun").

pj
chgo

I enjoyed reading your post Pat. I played for years aiming by feel and not long ago a friend taught me a simple aiming system and it made a huge difference in my game. I've wondered so many times how good I could have been if i'd known what I know now 20 years ago when my body was stronger and younger!

James

 

[av84fun]

Good point. Although there are no speed control techniques or systems that can be taught (that I know of), there are good drills and practice methods for it that can be taught.

pj
chgo

You have just recited a distinction without a difference. Maybe...just maybe....SOMEDAY...you might just respond to one of my posts with the "Good point" part and leave well enough alone.

I await that day with anxious anticipation.

(-:

 

[av84fun]

A standard technique that is perhaps most important at balkline is adjustment of the bridge length to adjust the speed of the shot. Bridge lengths down to less than two inches are used in that game. That particular technique seems to be unused as snooker where most of the players seem to have only one bridge length. But I agree that learning control mostly depends on drills and practice methods. One method that you can make part of your regular play is to pick a specific spot for position -- "on that chalk smudge three inches below the head spot" and not "somewhere on that side of the table for the seven."

Great point re: adjusting bridge length for speed variations. You are also correct, as usual, that the snooker players don't seem to do so.

However, one "reformed" world champion snooker player who is currently a champion 9 Ball player with whom I have studied, teaches that bridge length adjustment.

Among other things, shortening the bridge allows for a full backstroke to the normal ferrule postion relative to the bridge hand and avoids the risk of decellerating the cue speed when attempting slow shots with a normal bridge length.

I mention no names becuase I think it unfair to attribute teachings to the pros who get paid for their advice.

Regards,
Jim

 

[Patrick Johnson]

Me:
Good point. Although there are no speed control techniques or systems that can be taught (that I know of), there are good drills and practice methods for it that can be taught.

av84fun:
You have just recited a distinction without a difference.

You don't know the difference between "techniques or systems" and "drills and practice"? Is English your first language?

Maybe...just maybe....SOMEDAY...you might just respond to one of my posts with the "Good point" part and leave well enough alone.

If you ever make another good point, we'll see.

pj
chgo