he might've, I don't remember. try it out tho, I've had success with it myself
Aiming very close cuts
- Thread starter Oikawa
- Start date
he might've, I don't remember. try it out tho, I've had success with it myself
I've do this with feel... no different that a draw shot.
When you cut a ball with any outside cueing, your creating a feel for that table your about to play on.
It's slightly different every table and is in constant change during play as cloth conditions change.... Especially when humidity increases.
Developing a feel for a squirting cue ball (inward or outward is the same) it's a must to get better and better.
Great players develop this ''feel'' for the squirt increase, pushing the cue ball slightly away from the object ball (especially on very thin up close shots).
It's a Major reason, pros like to hit balls on the event equipment, before play begins.
As I add more cue ball speed with inside, along the horizontal plane... it ''pushes'' the cue ball outward.
As does using outside cueing.... pushes Whitey inward.
bm
When you cut a ball with any outside cueing, your creating a feel for that table your about to play on.
It's slightly different every table and is in constant change during play as cloth conditions change.... Especially when humidity increases.
Developing a feel for a squirting cue ball (inward or outward is the same) it's a must to get better and better.
Great players develop this ''feel'' for the squirt increase, pushing the cue ball slightly away from the object ball (especially on very thin up close shots).
It's a Major reason, pros like to hit balls on the event equipment, before play begins.
As I add more cue ball speed with inside, along the horizontal plane... it ''pushes'' the cue ball outward.
As does using outside cueing.... pushes Whitey inward.
bm
Last edited:
I'm pretty sure you will have success with draw as well. Gotta practice, though.
I have success with these shots by placing my cue over the center of the object ball and in line with the center of the pocket, thus finding the most distant point from the pocket on the object ball. Then do a parallel shift with the cue until it is centered over the cue ball. The far point from you on the cue ball and the object ball spot need to connect. I stand up a little to get a good angle to see these points. Then shoot. That's just the way i do it.
I believe this, bob
as a related question, draw (in general) seems more difficult to control than using top- is that inherently the case for some reason, or would it be more of a personal thing?
I think with top, I can elevate my bridge to create what is more of a level cue, and I can see my tip better, which leads me to believe that using top is easier..?
I think draw is usually hit harder and closer to the miscue limit than follow.
pj
chgo
The table giveth and the table taketh away. It gives you follow and it takes away your draw. In general, a draw shot has to be hit two to four times a hard as a follow shot to get the same distance of cue ball travel.
Oikawa
Well-known member
Your second point is a big one yes. Apart from draw being harder to control speed wise and less "natural", having a less elevated cue is almost always a benefit in shotmaking percentage, due to less swerve, a more consistent stance and it being easier to see the shot.I believe this, bob
as a related question, draw (in general) seems more difficult to control than using top- is that inherently the case for some reason, or would it be more of a personal thing?
I think with top, I can elevate my bridge to create what is more of a level cue, and I can see my tip better, which leads me to believe that using top is easier..?
I'm not an instructor, but what I do for very close hits is, rather than getting down low, to stand very tall over the balls. It allows me to see the angle much better.
Worth a try since other methods have failed for you?
Stand aligned on the CB-to-OB contact point-to-contact point line, then swivel/pivot to center CB (edited to absolute center CB as a correction). This method gives you a fairly reliable aim point including a bias towards the degree of cut to throw the ball into the pocket at a good speed. It may feel to you (depending on your typical aim method) like you're going to slightly overcut the shot, then it scores and tends to be self-correcting.
Try it, you might like it.
Last edited:
Can you or anyone else either diagram this or explain it better because maybe it's just me but what you said is very hard to visualize.
I borrowed this diagram, stance as if you're going to cue along the yellow line, then pivot the cue tip towards center CB (edited to absolute center CB).
Last edited:
Forgetting for the moment that isn't the shot in question and that what you're saying now is different from your first post...
I must be doing something wrong because when I try what you suggest I overcut the ball by a large amount.
Pivot how? Backhand, front hand, both? You don't specify.
Last edited:
Just a simple parallel shift to center cue ball is a pretty sure pot on that, but that is not the topic, nor what you said earlier. Pivot would certainly over cut and likely miss the entire ball.
I believe the first post description of the stance line and the line in the diagram are equivalent.
A parallel shift would do that (closely/subjectively)--thanks, Renegade--so would a backhand pivot toward absolute center (closely/subjectively to start), NOT center cue ball, and I apologize for not stating this correctly the first time.
I thought backhand was implied by "stand aligned", meaning in the full pool stance. Is there an aim method where one moves the bridge hand along the cloth to pivot after assuming the stance? I cannot recall one offhand. Pros pivot mostly with their eyes, not their bodies or altering their stance more than by extremely tiny increments.
That's not an aiming method; it's a squirt correction method - moving the bridge hand only is called fronthand english, moving the backhand only is called backhand english, and moving both is also a method (Dr. Dave has a named technique for it).
But, like I said, those aren't aiming methods; they're squirt correction methods - the aim adjustment you propose must be a different amount for each different shot (cut angle, CB/OB distance, etc.), not a single pivot point like correcting for squirt. Squirt correction is applied after the aim line is found.
pj
chgo
I understand. I think we agree that some aim systems provide subjective points requiring fine (or large) adjustment.
All of them do - except aiming contact point to contact point. For that method you align the cue through both points and then shift parallel (with no angle adjustment) to center CB. Side spin and squirt correction, if needed, is added from there.
pj
chgo