air bubbles in finish

E

Eagle Eye

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Im using enduro -var urethane water based product minwax sanding sealer wipe down the cue and have it slowly spinning apply the product and i am getting air bubbles. I stir and apply with a foam brush. This has worked in the past?
 
Me too

Eagle Eye said:
Im using enduro -var urethane water based product minwax sanding sealer wipe down the cue and have it slowly spinning apply the product and i am getting air bubbles. I stir and apply with a foam brush. This has worked in the past?
Click to expand...

I used the cue comp waterbourne sealer and finish and used a foam brush and got tons of air bubbles in it. I fig. it was the foam so I got a wooster premium soft bristle and like it alot better than the foam. Getting ready to try my hand at spraying here soon.

Nathan
 
Hi,

I used to get bubbles with poly before I found out it was too cold for my reducer in the cold months. More heat and the problem went away.

Try bringing the environment to 80 degrees and check with the manufctor on temp. That might be the simple fix. It was for me.

Rick
 
bubbles

I use water base finish and I have never seen a bubble. I use a foam brush.

Are you sure that the wood is sealed. Some open grain woods will bubble into the epoxy sealer but not into the finish after it is sealed.

Kim
 
foam brush can easily put air bubbles in the clear, you should try spraying, buy a cheapo harbour frieght, lowes, homedepot gun or i even have a 9 dollar one from ebay i got just to try and it will work perfect for you. i have big expoensive guns aswell but with the waterbased as long as your spinning it will level out and flow no matter what gun you use.
 
Trent said:
foam brush can easily put air bubbles in the clear, you should try spraying, buy a cheapo harbour frieght, lowes, homedepot gun or i even have a 9 dollar one from ebay i got just to try and it will work perfect for you. i have big expoensive guns aswell but with the waterbased as long as your spinning it will level out and flow no matter what gun you use.
Click to expand...

I have tried spraying and I don't like it. I like the foam brush. It works perfectly... no spray booth, no over spray, no wasted finish, no bubbles, I don't get sprial lines from spinning, and I can better control the thickness and get even coverage. If you use the right finish, you get even flow out.

I can make a video for you if you like.

Kim
 
Hi Kim,

Todd (AZ- "Glutton") of Schaler Cues tried the stuff you use and he said it is amazing the way it flows and sanded. He said it almost looked finished after spinning.

I am going to try it after the show and do some experimenting over time on some beta cues. I have over $ 3,000.00 invested in my spray booth and safety systems associated with it and I use PPG Concept Clear. That being said, I would have no problem changing if it produces a better result.

Does the product specify mill thickness per coat in the data sheet and flash time between coats?

My concerns are durability, dent resistance, luster, and of coarse safety issues. The waterborne is safer no doubt but I wear the proper respirator and take precautions.

I have never seen a Finnish that can beat the PPG Concept and I truly believe that after producing a cue, I want to put the absolute best finish with the highest deep luster I can attain.

That last cue you posted looked great and I can't wait to try some and compare in person.

Thanks for sharing Kim, I will be picking your brain about this stuff after the show. One thing that you and I have in common is that we both like to experiment and will never be set in our ways in lieu of progress and raising the bar. Some of us old farts resist being set in ours ways. I keep reminding myself to do that so I don't stagnate where technology progression is concerned.:help:

Thanks,

Rick
 
I am going to try it after the show and do some experimenting over time on some beta cues. I have over $ 3,000.00 invested in my spray booth and safety systems associated with it and I use PPG Concept Clear. That being said, I would have no problem changing if it produces a better result.
Click to expand...
No way Enduro is better than a PPG clear . It can't be as hard either .
PPG Ceramiclear is the best clear there is today I think.
http://www.ceramicindustry.com/Articles/Products/ec9dbc7982ac7010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____
But, you better be breathing clean air and spraying it legally.
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi Kim,

Todd (AZ- "Glutton") of Schaler Cues tried the stuff you use and he said it is amazing the way it flows and sanded. He said it almost looked finished after spinning.

I am going to try it after the show and do some experimenting over time on some beta cues. I have over $ 3,000.00 invested in my spray booth and safety systems associated with it and I use PPG Concept Clear. That being said, I would have no problem changing if it produces a better result.

Does the product specify mill thickness per coat in the data sheet and flash time between coats?

My concerns are durability, dent resistance, luster, and of coarse safety issues. The waterborne is safer no doubt but I wear the proper respirator and take precautions.

I have never seen a Finnish that can beat the PPG Concept and I truly believe that after producing a cue, I want to put the absolute best finish with the highest deep luster I can attain.

That last cue you posted looked great and I can't wait to try some and compare in person.

Thanks for sharing Kim, I will be picking your brain about this stuff after the show. One thing that you and I have in common is that we both like to experiment and will never be set in our ways in lieu of progress and raising the bar. Some of us old farts resist being set in ours ways. I keep reminding myself to do that so I don't stagnate where technology progression is concerned.:help:

Thanks,

Rick
Click to expand...

http://www.muralo.com/product_pdfs/810AquaborneCeramithaneinfosheet.pdf

See the data sheet. It seems hard to me and it is spec'ed for hardwood floors. So it must wear well with abrasion.

You have to see how it flows out to believe it. If it didn't have the usual nibs in it, you could just polish it without sanding. I do about 1/4 of the wet sanding that I did with other water borne finishes and I tried 3 of them.

Their specs say it is set in 1 hour and hard in 4 hours but I experience more like 6 - 8 hours but it is ready to sand the next day. NO MORE THAN 2 COATS PER DAY.

I recoat in 1 hour minimum time.

I read somewhere that it gets about 2 mils per coat and that is about what I have been getting.

It is supposed to be self crosslinking when it dries. On the break cue I just finished it is hard as a rock.

I put on an epoxy base coat and sand smooth then:

I do 2 coats - light sand next day - 2 more coats - wait a week - light wet sand 600 - 1000 - 1500 - 2000 - turtle wax white polishing compound - Meguiars plastX - Meguiars swirlX -Meguiars show car glaze - Meguiars golden carnuba wax.

The shine is amazing. Even if you don't believe it..... you should try it yourself and see.

You are right about the finish and how important it is to the buyer. When I hand a new cue to someone... the first thing they do is slide their hand up and down the finish and look at the shine under a light and they say "wow that's nice". I bet they do that to you too.



Kim
 
whammo57 said:
http://www.muralo.com/product_pdfs/810AquaborneCeramithaneinfosheet.pdf

See the data sheet. It seems hard to me and it is spec'ed for hardwood floors. So it must wear well with abrasion.

You have to see how it flows out to believe it. If it didn't have the usual nibs in it, you could just polish it without sanding. I do about 1/4 of the wet sanding that I did with other water borne finishes and I tried 3 of them.

Their specs say it is set in 1 hour and hard in 4 hours but I experience more like 6 - 8 hours but it is ready to sand the next day. NO MORE THAN 2 COATS PER DAY.

I recoat in 1 hour minimum time.

I read somewhere that it gets about 2 mils per coat and that is about what I have been getting.

It is supposed to be self crosslinking when it dries. On the break cue I just finished it is hard as a rock.

I put on an epoxy base coat and sand smooth then:

I do 2 coats - light sand next day - 2 more coats - wait a week - light wet sand 600 - 1000 - 1500 - 2000 - turtle wax white polishing compound - Meguiars plastX - Meguiars swirlX -Meguiars show car glaze - Meguiars golden carnuba wax.

The shine is amazing. Even if you don't believe it..... you should try it yourself and see.

You are right about the finish and how important it is to the buyer. When I hand a new cue to someone... the first thing they do is slide their hand up and down the finish and look at the shine under a light and they say "wow that's nice". I bet they do that to you too.



Kim
Click to expand...

Kim,

Wow. I won't have to worry about heel marks any more.

Can't wait to try it.

Thanks,

Rick
 
Yeah, but if your customer likes to drink EverClear (100% Ethanol) and he/she spills some on your cue, it's going to haze :smile:

Gary
 
GBCues said:
Yeah, but if your customer likes to drink EverClear (100% Ethanol) and he/she spills some on your cue, it's going to haze :smile:

Gary
Click to expand...

Do you really know anyone that drinks everclear straight? Anyone that drinks that shittt wouldn't be playing pool. And they wouldn't be stirring their drink with a pool cue. If you read the spec sheet link in a previous post you will see that 100 proof has no effect. :D

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
Do you really know anyone that drinks everclear straight? Anyone that drinks that shittt wouldn't be playing pool. And they wouldn't be stirring their drink with a pool cue. If you read the spec sheet link in a previous post you will see that 100 proof has no effect. :D

Kim
Click to expand...

Kim,

Ummm . . to be specific, I mentioned EverClear because it is 200 proof, hence 100% and would show a "Slight Effect". But I figure anyone drinking EverClear is going to be spilling some - either in its primary form or secondary (hopefully no need to elucidate!!)

Anyway, was just in a jesting mood. I have been using the Enduro products for a while. I recently got some EM9300 which looks promising. This Ceramithane (sp?) looks promising as well.

Onward thru the fog

Gary
 
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GBCues said:
Kim,

Ummm . . to be specific, I mentioned EverClear because it is 200 proof, hence 100% and would show a "Slight Effect". But I figure anyone drinking EverClear is going to be spilling some - either in its primary form or secondary (hopefully no need to elucidate!!)

Anyway, was just in a jesting mood. I have been using the Enduro products for a while. I recently got some EM9300 which looks promising. This Ceramithane (sp?) looks promising as well.

Onward thru the fog

Gary
Click to expand...

Sorry if I came off as pissy........


I used the 9300 and that is the best Target coating and it is good stuff. The Ceramithane really is better. Try it...you'll like it. It does take a little different method of application.

Kim
 
Eagle Eye said:
Im using enduro -var urethane water based product minwax sanding sealer wipe down the cue and have it slowly spinning apply the product and i am getting air bubbles. I stir and apply with a foam brush. This has worked in the past?
Click to expand...
Try this and see if it works for you guys!!! Try warming the cue up before applying finish. Start applying finish and the cue is cooling off. You will be amazed at how the finish just flows out on the cue. Brush spray roll it on. Anyway you want this works. I spray everything.
 
whammo57 said:
I have tried spraying and I don't like it. I like the foam brush. It works perfectly... no spray booth, no over spray, no wasted finish, no bubbles, I don't get sprial lines from spinning, and I can better control the thickness and get even coverage. If you use the right finish, you get even flow out.

I can make a video for you if you like.

Kim
Click to expand...

I would like to see a video. Thanks in advance! :thumbup:
 
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