Another table question - custom made

[CZSteve]

Here's another table I found on Craig's List.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/for/2070636164.html

Supposedly made by someone in Rowlett, TX (Dallas area).
- Pro (oversize) 8'
- 1.75" thick slate (owner seamed to know what they were talking about).
- Already disassembled.

I plan on stopping by on Saturday on way back into town.

Questions:
- What's the advantage to slate this thick? Disadvantage (asides from moving)?
- What are the overall dimensions of slate for an 8.5' table?
(if it's not assembled can't measure between rails - want to confirm).
- Anyone here familiar with a building in Rowlett?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Dartman]

Probably 1" slate with a 3/4" slate liner.
If I remember right each piece should be 33" x 53"

 

[realkingcobra]

Here's another table I found on Craig's List.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/for/2070636164.html

Supposedly made by someone in Rowlett, TX (Dallas area).
- Pro (oversize) 8'
- 1.75" thick slate (owner seamed to know what they were talking about).
- Already disassembled.

I plan on stopping by on Saturday on way back into town.

Questions:
- What's the advantage to slate this thick? Disadvantage (asides from moving)?
- What are the overall dimensions of slate for an 8.5' table?
(if it's not assembled can't measure between rails - want to confirm).
- Anyone here familiar with a building in Rowlett?

Thanks,
Steve

Unless the mfg special ordered a container load of special thickness slate, that thick of slate is not a common thickness of slate produced by any slate mfg, so I highly doubt the owners claim, and there's more truth to what Rick posted

 

[QuickEdward]

Here's another table I found on Craig's List.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/for/2070636164.html

Supposedly made by someone in Rowlett, TX (Dallas area).
- Pro (oversize) 8'
- 1.75" thick slate (owner seamed to know what they were talking about).
- Already disassembled.

I plan on stopping by on Saturday on way back into town.

Questions:
- What's the advantage to slate this thick? Disadvantage (asides from moving)?
- What are the overall dimensions of slate for an 8.5' table?
(if it's not assembled can't measure between rails - want to confirm).
- Anyone here familiar with a building in Rowlett?

Thanks,
Steve

I laugh every time I see someone claim their table is "Custom Made". There used to be a company where I live that would put metal placards on one end of the table that said "Custom Made for the XXXXX family by ZZZZZZ Billiard Company." The only thing custom made was the placard. No one will "custom make" a table for $2500. And those certainly don't look like "ball" (which I take to mean "ball and claw") feet - they're fluted/trumpet style legs.

 

[CZSteve]

Thanks all.

I think we're still going to look at Saturday.
I didn't think the 1.75 slate sounded plausible. I assume ya'll are thinking it's .75 of either wood backing or a second layer of slate?
Purpose of a second layer of slate (assuming that's it)?

Noticed the same thing regarding leg description; that doesn't bother me as I really don't care for the ball/claw and 'think' I like the look of this - need to see in person.

Inspection tips for an unassembled table?
I want to verify it is a Pro 8 size: 33x53 O.D for each slate sound right for 8.5'er?
What all should I look for regarding quality construction?
Slate certification to verify quality?

 

[JoeyInCali]

I paid $950 for my Gold Crown II. I drove to the boonies to dis-assemble and pick it up . :grin:
Jewels can be had.
Do not buy Chinese crap.
Stick to American brands.

 

[Dartman]

Unless they have 2 tables 2' apart - if you look at that pic it's a showroom-type pic, not a pic taken by the owner.
Never heard of layering slate so pretty sure it's 1" plus the liner. Bring your tape & measure L+W+H to verify if you go look at it.

Check the rails to be hardwood and not particleboard. Cushions should be pliable. Sight down the rails to check for any waviness in the cushions. All the frame pieces should be stought. Check how the slate supports mount to the frame. Of course check the slate, the pockets and all hardware is accounted for. If not familiar with good table construction you're taking your chances but the owner may be legit and just looking to get rid of a table they can't use.

 

[ChrisShanklin]

That is an Imperial International "Franklin" model. Just to get it off my floor I sold the last one at 1399 installed. It is an MDF cabinet with solid wood legs and rails.

 

[CZSteve]

Well, an MDF cabinet doesn't sound promising...

Edit:
Just looked at the Imperial website; doesn't seem too bad to my untrained eye.
- Brazilian slate. Decent, yes?
- Hardwood rails.
- Floating nuts in rails.
- Kiln dried support cross rails.
- MDF slate backing, poplar is better from what I've read but don't think MDF is a big deal here.

http://www.imperialusa.com/collections/collections.asp?catalogid=362

Chris - you pretty certain this is an Imperial? Sure looks like it.
Your opinion of Imperial for basic home use?
Not looking for a Gold Crown but don't want a piece of crap Chinese table.

 

[Donny Wessels]

Well, an MDF cabinet doesn't sound promising...

Edit:
Just looked at the Imperial website; doesn't seem too bad to my untrained eye.
- Brazilian slate. Decent, yes?
- Hardwood rails.
- Floating nuts in rails.
- Kiln dried support cross rails.
- MDF slate backing, poplar is better from what I've read but don't think MDF is a big deal here.

http://www.imperialusa.com/collections/collections.asp?catalogid=362

Chris - you pretty certain this is an Imperial? Sure looks like it.
Your opinion of Imperial for basic home use?
Not looking for a Gold Crown but don't want a piece of crap Chinese table.

I thought it looked like a Imperial as well, hard to tell alot of companies make a table that looks like that. If its imperial it will have a badge on the head rail. They also didn't make them in oversized 8. If the slate is 53" wide then the table would most likely been made in USA. If it is Imperial the hardwood is from the US and sent oversees, the finish is good, its also a post leg table (meaning the leg is goes from the floor to the slate) which is a plus, Good quality brazilian slate, good workmanship. The bad things about the imperial table are thin frames that sag in the middle and bad cushions that get hard in a few years.

 

[BJones02]

Hey Steve, if you are in the DFW area, you might want to check this one out:

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/fuo/2074518191.html


Looks like a nice Connelly. Looks like a model we had come through our store awhile back. If it is the same model, and it does look like it from the pics, it is made here in the USA with a really beefy frame. The slate was indeed extra thick. It played great.

That is a steal at 800 (if it is what I think it is).

 

[9-ball B]

I think the Connelly is about 2x the table that Imperial is,definitely a steal if slate is good and the cushions are good.

 

[Donny Wessels]

Hey Steve, if you are in the DFW area, you might want to check this one out:

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/fuo/2074518191.html


Looks like a nice Connelly. Looks like a model we had come through our store awhile back. If it is the same model, and it does look like it from the pics, it is made here in the USA with a really beefy frame. The slate was indeed extra thick. It played great.

That is a steal at 800 (if it is what I think it is).

Thats a good deal on a great home table.

 

[n10spool]

Thats a good deal on a great home table.

Original picture is a dealer there's another table in the background. You might go to a few dealers just to look at tables to see how they are built and give it the shake test before buying. This way you can rule out a few and jump quicker on a good one.

 

[ChrisShanklin]

Get the Connelly, much better than both tables we have seen yet. Donny, the Franklin is "kinda" a post leg table. It looks like it but the actual leg is bolted into the upper section or "corner" of the frame. It's a mixture betweeen tapered frame and post leg. Not a bad table, but a Connelly blows it out of the water.

 

[Donny Wessels]

Get the Connelly, much better than both tables we have seen yet. Donny, the Franklin is "kinda" a post leg table. It looks like it but the actual leg is bolted into the upper section or "corner" of the frame. It's a mixture betweeen tapered frame and post leg. Not a bad table, but a Connelly blows it out of the water.

Haven't built that table in years. I was an imperial dealer for about 5 years and only built a couple of those, that was years ago. Now that you mention it I can't remember how exactly that leg bolts on.

 

[CZSteve]

Thanks for the lead on the Connelly.
I like but the wife is not wild about the color; we'll look at it in person and go from there.

 

[CZSteve]

Follow-up: Not an Imperial - Skip Gaston built

I acquired more info talking to a local mechanic and finally able to talk to the owner again.

This table was built buy a guy named Skip Gaston out of Rowlett Texas.
According to the mechanic he built pretty nice tables; progressively better during the course of five years. Ended up in an accident and loosing some fingers and apparently ending his table building venture.

Anyone here aware of Skip Gaston built tables?

 

[CZSteve]

Stopped and looked at the table by Skip Gaston.
Divorce selling and not quite the same as in the ad (not even the same pic).
I honestly don't think she was trying to be deceptive; this was her husbands table and don't think she really has a clue.

Pics attached; let me know if this looks like a half-way decent table or not?
Notes:
- Slate is 1" without any backing (liner). Appears to be Italian from tag remnant.
- Feet are claw / ball as opposed to pic showing a straight turned leg.
- Cross / Corner supports: How do they look? The center stringers are butt ends with screws thru the sides, not mortised unions.
- Rails: How do they look?

'Asking' $799 - offer suggestions?

Last (and first) table I had was an older Brunswick Heritage (circa '70). It had floating t-nuts in the rails along with brass line-up pins in the slate for the joints - neither of which here.

I'm under the impression that floating nuts in the rails is still 'common' on higher grade table but what about the line-up pins for the slate? The pins don't seem to be the standard or are they?

 

[ChrisShanklin]

Stopped and looked at the table by Skip Gaston.
Divorce selling and not quite the same as in the ad (not even the same pic).
I honestly don't think she was trying to be deceptive; this was her husbands table and don't think she really has a clue.

Pics attached; let me know if this looks like a half-way decent table or not?
Notes:
- Slate is 1" without any backing (liner). Appears to be Italian from tag remnant.
- Feet are claw / ball as opposed to pic showing a straight turned leg.
- Cross / Corner supports: How do they look? The center stringers are butt ends with screws thru the sides, not mortised unions.
- Rails: How do they look?

'Asking' $799 - offer suggestions?

Last (and first) table I had was an older Brunswick Heritage (circa '70). It had floating t-nuts in the rails along with brass line-up pins in the slate for the joints - neither of which here.

I'm under the impression that floating nuts in the rails is still 'common' on higher grade table but what about the line-up pins for the slate? The pins don't seem to be the standard or are they?

Looks like a solid, well built pool table, assuming the bumpers are in great shape and all the hardware is there I would go for it.