Another vote for using Parchment Paper on shafts...

Bob 14:1

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This is a combined thank you for TATE's great shaft cleaning thread, "Step by Step, with photos, easy and safe shaft cleaning" and a few comments about my positive experience with using Parchment Paper as a shaft's final finishing step.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=188985

I put it on our shopping list for our local grocery chain, and I'm guessin' it probably ran c. 5 bucks.

It either tears easily or cuts easily. It's a rugged paper, but it's also very thin, and it clearly has been treated with something akin to Teflon or silicone. To use the proper chemical designation; slippery stuff.

I cut a hand sized square and just rubbed the shaft from the ferrule to the joint. I found while pulling the paper with one hand while pushing the shaft with the other, that it quickly generated a significant amount of heat via the friction of two very smooth surfaces.

It quickly added a high sheen to the wood and I was particularly pleased at how it managed to shine up the ferrule.

If you've already found the method that works the best for you, this will most likely not change your routine. I just thought for a few bucks, that I'd try it and I was most pleased. I purposely tested it on a somewhat soiled shaft and found it had no cleansing properties at all. It did, however, make a nicely slick shaft, and was very convenient, easy and quick to use.

That's it. I like experimenting with new ideas and just thought I'd run it by you. For 5 bucks it did a great job, and I can imagine after a thorough cleaning beforehand, it might bring back an almost new look to your cue.

If you don't care for it, your wife can use it for baking you some cookies...

reynolds.jpg
 
I am now about to raid the pantry where my wife keeps her supplies for baking and other such endeavors. It's a large dark cluttered place. Quite frightening actually.

If I don't come back please notify the authorities.




Thanks for the tip! :grin-square:

If my wife complains I'll just remind her how long it has been since she actually used the stuff. :grin-square:



.
 
This is a combined thank you for TATE's great shaft cleaning thread, "Step by Step, with photos, easy and safe shaft cleaning" and a few comments about my positive experience with using Parchment Paper as a shaft's final finishing step.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=188985

I put it on our shopping list for our local grocery chain, and I'm guessin' it probably ran c. 5 bucks.

It either tears easily or cuts easily. It's a rugged paper, but it's also very thin, and it clearly has been treated with something akin to Teflon or silicone. To use the proper chemical designation; slippery stuff.

I cut a hand sized square and just rubbed the shaft from the ferrule to the joint. I found while pulling the paper with one hand while pushing the shaft with the other, that it quickly generated a significant amount of heat via the friction of two very smooth surfaces.

It quickly added a high sheen to the wood and I was particularly pleased at how it managed to shine up the ferrule.

If you've already found the method that works the best for you, this will most likely not change your routine. I just thought for a few bucks, that I'd try it and I was most pleased. I purposely tested it on a somewhat soiled shaft and found it had no cleansing properties at all. It did, however, make a nicely slick shaft, and was very convenient, easy and quick to use.

That's it. I like experimenting with new ideas and just thought I'd run it by you. For 5 bucks it did a great job, and I can imagine after a thorough cleaning beforehand, it might bring back an almost new look to your cue.

If you don't care for it, your wife can use it for baking you some cookies...

View attachment 413664

I originally got the idea years ago from MacGuy. He suggested using wax paper (or butcher's wax) to seal linen wraps. I was looking for something that didn't gum up and could handle heat from friction, so I could use it when machine turning a shaft. Parchment paper turned out to be perfect for this.

For those who really like to do their own maintenance but don't want to spend a fortune, I recommend the arbor bits shown below. They are sold on ebay by Joe Picone and hold 5/16X 18, 5/16 X 14 and 3/8 X 10 shafts. Put them in a drill or motor with a chuck and you can easily polish, clean, burnish and remove mushrooms on tips. The screws remove so you can also put a handle on them and smooth wraps. Years ago I used them to refinish leather wraps and complete cues.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUE-REPAIR-ARBOR-TOOLS-CLEAN-SAND-TAPER-CUE-TIPS-lathe/172101153371?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Ddefb7247d1df4f81b246f04f3298cf2a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D172090506785
 

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I originally got the idea years ago from MacGuy. He suggested using wax paper (or butcher's wax) to seal linen wraps. I was looking for something that didn't gum up and could handle heat from friction, so I could use it when machine turning a shaft. Parchment paper turned out to be perfect for this.

For those who really like to do their own maintenance but don't want to spend a fortune, I recommend the arbor bits shown below. They are sold on ebay by Joe Picone and hold 5/16X 18, 5/16 X 14 and 3/8 X 10 shafts. Put them in a drill or motor with a chuck and you can easily polish, clean, burnish and remove mushrooms on tips. The screws remove so you can also put a handle on them and smooth wraps. Years ago I used them to refinish leather wraps and complete cues.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUE-REPAIR-ARBOR-TOOLS-CLEAN-SAND-TAPER-CUE-TIPS-lathe/172101153371?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Ddefb7247d1df4f81b246f04f3298cf2a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D172090506785

I use my Cordless in a pinch when Im away from the house and works like a champ

1
 
I tried the 'magic eraser' and 'grease proof paper' as that's what they are called in Australia. Thanks Tate, it works great. Easy and cheap way to keep the cue as clean as new.

Sent from my SM-T530 using Tapatalk
 
For those who really like to do their own maintenance but don't want to spend a fortune, I recommend the arbor bits shown below. They are sold on ebay by Joe Picone and hold 5/16X 18, 5/16 X 14 and 3/8 X 10 shafts. Put them in a drill or motor with a chuck and you can easily polish, clean, burnish and remove mushrooms on tips. The screws remove so you can also put a handle on them and smooth wraps. Years ago I used them to refinish leather wraps and complete cues.
Thanks for the heads up on these, I just ordered a set. Will try with my Sharpshooter drill setup since I don't care for the rubber crutch tip arbor it came with.
 
Old fashioned grocery store paper bag. You heard it here
 
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Old fashioned grocery store paper bag. You heard it here

Yeah, I have been using Wal-Mart Pharmacy bags, white with blue lettering, turned inside out. Seems to work well and I haven't seen another paper shopping bag in a while;)
 
Just a quick follow-up on this: Yesterday I picked up a box of 45 square feet for $3.48 at Wal-Mart. Haven't got to try it on a cue as yet, maybe tomorrow.
 
One needs to use real Parchment paper from a Bible.

And then use the page that recites: Yea tho I walk thru the Valley of Pool Halls, I shall fear no player, for I will kick their asses into Purgatory.

Or something like that.

For those who really like to do their own maintenance but don't want to spend a fortune, I recommend the arbor bits shown below. They are sold on ebay by Joe Picone and hold 5/16X 18, 5/16 X 14 and 3/8 X 10 shafts. Put them in a drill or motor with a chuck and you can easily polish, clean, burnish and remove mushrooms on tips. The screws remove so you can also put a handle on them and smooth wraps. Years ago I used them to refinish leather wraps and complete cues.

Excellent Maintenance Arbors Chris. Specially if one can remove the screws and screw in a butt.

Joe makes decent quality Items. I purchased 2 of his Tip Presses many moons ago and still going strong. In other words, someone will get these in my Will.

Which I hope won't be getting used for a few more years anyway.

A person doesn't need to batten down the cordless on a bench in this case. All they need to do is to put the drill on a rather slow setting, Support the drill in between both feet, and work the shaft up and down in between their legs. Or just have a Friend hold the drill for you as you support and work the shaft with both of your hands.

Altho, if you have space on a work bench, it doesn't take much to figure out a wooden support for a drill.
 
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I tried it I like it

Good for you. I'm glad you're pleased. At least you had the open mindedness to at least give it a go, without continually pounding folks about what you feel is the better option without even trying something new.
 
when i have a new tip put on by Vague Doug the mad tip man from Evergreen ,Co he cleans and waxes my shaft with his own special concoction of waxes. the wax never gets gummy and stays very slick.
Would parchment paper over wax give any benefit?
 
when i have a new tip put on by Vague Doug the mad tip man from Evergreen ,Co he cleans and waxes my shaft with his own special concoction of waxes. the wax never gets gummy and stays very slick.
Would parchment paper over wax give any benefit?

Not a clue, Bruce. Perhaps contact TATE. He's the originator of the idea. I would hardly think so because it's putting on no more than an extremely thin coating; perhaps even molecular. :scratchhead:
 
This is a combined thank you for TATE's great shaft cleaning thread, "Step by Step, with photos, easy and safe shaft cleaning" and a few comments about my positive experience with using Parchment Paper as a shaft's final finishing step.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=188985

I put it on our shopping list for our local grocery chain, and I'm guessin' it probably ran c. 5 bucks.

It either tears easily or cuts easily. It's a rugged paper, but it's also very thin, and it clearly has been treated with something akin to Teflon or silicone. To use the proper chemical designation; slippery stuff.

I cut a hand sized square and just rubbed the shaft from the ferrule to the joint. I found while pulling the paper with one hand while pushing the shaft with the other, that it quickly generated a significant amount of heat via the friction of two very smooth surfaces.

It quickly added a high sheen to the wood and I was particularly pleased at how it managed to shine up the ferrule.

If you've already found the method that works the best for you, this will most likely not change your routine. I just thought for a few bucks, that I'd try it and I was most pleased. I purposely tested it on a somewhat soiled shaft and found it had no cleansing properties at all. It did, however, make a nicely slick shaft, and was very convenient, easy and quick to use.

That's it. I like experimenting with new ideas and just thought I'd run it by you. For 5 bucks it did a great job, and I can imagine after a thorough cleaning beforehand, it might bring back an almost new look to your cue.

If you don't care for it, your wife can use it for baking you some cookies...

View attachment 413664

I have 2 shafts for my billiards cue, and I recently had my local cue guy clean, seal and burnish both of them - annual maintenance. It is a little strange, but it seems like it "took" on one of the shafts, which came out great, but on the other haft I quickly got little bumps or really less than that, but noticeable.

I tried a piece of the parchment on the "good" shaft and it is terrific. As nice as that shaft was, it made it even nicer. I think I will be carrying a piece of this in my cue case from now on. A good wipe with a dry towel following by a quick burnishing with a parchment square should keep the shaft in tip top shape.

I just gave the "bad" shaft the magic eraser treatment and am just waiting for it to dry to sand (1000 grit is what I have - I will go veeeeeeeerrrrry gentle with it). Then the parchment. I am expecting a wonderful result - I hope I get it.

Now if anyone has an analogous great (non-lathe - for us amateurs) methodology for burnishing tips, I'm all ears.
 
I've always burnished tips using folded dollar bills (lengthwise) wet the edge of the tip then burnish, kind of like buffing a shoe. Works great!
 
I've always burnished tips using folded dollar bills (lengthwise) wet the edge of the tip then burnish, kind of like buffing a shoe. Works great!

I've done that. Also have used one side or the other of pieces of paper back book covers, from when I worked 27 years in a bindery.
 
It's a bit awkward to do since the paper is so slippery, but I just carried the paper burnish to the ferrule and tip edge. The ferrule really took a high shine, and the tip was nice. It didn't catch the light, but it looked well maintained and presentable.

I'd suspect perhaps the lesser shaft has some raised grain that maybe the paper tended to highlight. The heaviest I ever go on a shaft is the logo side of a Q-wiz, and I think that's even a bit too aggressive. Previously to the parchment paper, I'd rub down the shaft with a totally worn out piece of Q-Smooth yellow. I'd first wear it down on my mechanical bridge shaft so that it felt totally smooth, but it still managed to remove just a slight blueish tint. If you're seeing a white residue, you're seeing wood dust.
 
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