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Hey Tommy,
I have a question about the maintenance of the shaft, mostly regarding re-tipping.
I understand that the without the ferrule, the end mass is lower and by that you get less squirt (CB deflection), but the reason for the ferrule from the first place was to protect the wood from splitting. Over the years we've seen different ferrules from different materials and different lengths. The pool world learned over the last few years that smaller and lighter ferrules are better, this was known to the Carom and Snooker world for many years before. But still all are using some sort of a ferrule.
I understand that the pad provides some kind of protection to the wood but just how much protection?
When replacing a tip, usually the shaft is sanded a bit to remove glue left-overs and to make it flush. when you have 1/4 inch ferrule or more this sanding is no big deal but just having a pad will make the "wood protector" very thin in no time and the protection value of it will be lost.
Some use pads on ivory ferrules an synthetic ferruls as well, when the pad is thin than replacing it is not a big deal as the ferrule is still there to protect the wood.
What happens when it's time to replace the pad on this shaft?
I fear that most DIY players will have problems here and might damage the wood. Not every one can send their shafts to a pro cue-smith.
What are your thoughts on this?
Hey Tommy,
I have a question about the maintenance of the shaft, mostly regarding re-tipping.
I understand that the without the ferrule, the end mass is lower and by that you get less squirt (CB deflection), but the reason for the ferrule from the first place was to protect the wood from splitting. Over the years we've seen different ferrules from different materials and different lengths. The pool world learned over the last few years that smaller and lighter ferrules are better, this was known to the Carom and Snooker world for many years before. But still all are using some sort of a ferrule.
I understand that the pad provides some kind of protection to the wood but just how much protection?
When replacing a tip, usually the shaft is sanded a bit to remove glue left-overs and to make it flush. when you have 1/4 inch ferrule or more this sanding is no big deal but just having a pad will make the "wood protector" very thin in no time and the protection value of it will be lost.
Some use pads on ivory ferrules an synthetic ferrules as well, when the pad is thin than replacing it is not a big deal as the ferrule is still there to protect the wood.
What happens when it's time to replace the pad on this shaft?
I fear that most DIY players will have problems here and might damage the wood. Not every one can send their shafts to a pro cue-smith.
What are your thoughts on this?
It was designed and produced in USA ... as an OPTION or kind a UPGRADE for Cues out of the $Cue/Worldclass-SHOP ...... they dont produce them a 1000 pieces like TIGER/Predater/OB1 and so on .... so if you don't like the price you dont have to buy it ....... it's that simple isnt it ?![]()
nevermind.
mine tooIf you ordered a shaft in the past 3 weeks, your shaft(s) will be shipping Monday.
PM me if you would like to odrer a shaft from our next batch.
mine too:grin:
Ralf:wink:
During the recent tournament at Shooter's I screwed my new ferruleless shaft on my buddy's 15 year old McDaniel's cue and a few AZ'ers (ibuycues, hitman, felix) gave it a test drive and to a man everyone was very impressed how the shaft sends the cueball directly to where it was aimed. I think you might be getting another order in the very near future Tommy.
-don
Rec'd my 2nd Ca$h ferrule-less shaft today - this time in a different joint ring to fit my other cues, and a Kamui Black SS tip (which turns out to be a real nice fit here). Perfect fit & finish, nailed the weight, hits 'em super. You won't find better quality, and a greater commitment to customer service, than these guys.
Thanks, Tommy. Always a pleasure.