Another way to get the LD

You say you use a non-laminated maple shaft. Is there any hardening process (similar to heat hardening of metal) used on the shaft end before glueing a fiber pad to the shaft? I'm not looking for any trade secret just curious.
 
You say you use a non-laminated maple shaft. Is there any hardening process (similar to heat hardening of metal) used on the shaft end before glueing a fiber pad to the shaft? I'm not looking for any trade secret just curious.

Pete, let me put it this way. There is a lot of things going on in the business end of our shaft, and structural stability was accounted for during engineering. Thanks for the question and taking time to read the thread.
 
Pete, let me put it this way. There is a lot of things going on in the business end of our shaft, and structural stability was accounted for during engineering. Thanks for the question and taking time to read the thread.

I love it when there is a lot of things going on in the business end of my shaft:D:D:D Sorry Tommy, I could not resist.

-don
 
every time i see someone offer something new or better,i am amazed at the numberof people who complain aboue the price.If you can't afford or just think its too high ,why not show some decency to your fellow man who is trying to make an honest living?I have personally bought over 6 items from Tommy and paid his asking price,I made an offer privately on some others,some he took,some he did not take.
But I tell you one the he has impressed me as an honest fair human being.I met him here on AZ and I have come to admire him as a man of knowledge and integrity.

Whether this shaft works for you or not I can''t say,but one thing i can say with confidence"tommy put some deal of time into experimentation,and he honestly thinks the results show that this shaft will improve play for certain people"
So if its worth $250 to improve your game,buy one,it probably will help and no body will think you a a sucker for taking a chance on Tommy's new product

DEAN CAMPBELL
 
every time i see someone offer something new or better,i am amazed at the numberof people who complain aboue the price.If you can't afford or just think its too high ,why not show some decency to your fellow man who is trying to make an honest living?I have personally bought over 6 items from Tommy and paid his asking price,I made an offer privately on some others,some he took,some he did not take.
But I tell you one the he has impressed me as an honest fair human being.I met him here on AZ and I have come to admire him as a man of knowledge and integrity.

Whether this shaft works for you or not I can''t say,but one thing i can say with confidence"tommy put some deal of time into experimentation,and he honestly thinks the results show that this shaft will improve play for certain people"
So if its worth $250 to improve your game,buy one,it probably will help and no body will think you a a sucker for taking a chance on Tommy's new product

DEAN CAMPBELL

Well spoken Dean, Tommy is da Man. The fair Prices and TOP Quality speaks for himself. I would try,but after rethinking I'm angry for the dirty Wood after the Tip when you playing long time with it. Maybe he will make a one inch clearcoat after the Fiberpad, so I will try the Shaft,sorry for my POOR english:D
Ralf
 
The reply from And as i understand his concern to be a valid onas I understand it is "with no ferrule,won't the chalk applied to the tip turn my shaft green?' The answer as I understand it is "yes,it will ,unless something is done to reduce or address the problem.

My personal thinking is as follows.1) who cares if it plays better what difference does it make to me 2)I could put chalk over the entire cue and it wouldn't bother me anyway.
Before you make a judgement let me give some examples
1. Jack Cooney bought a cue from a famous maker and the first thing he did was take the new shaft and roll it aroud on the dirty floor "I don't like the look of new wood on my shafts"he reputedly said.

2. Luther Lasater took a red marker and colored his ferrule an ugly red,he still played great

Now I am sure someone out there might be saying,"it would still bother me.Well if you knew it was the best playing way to hit,reduce deflection and play good,what would you do? For me the answer is easy,I would buy it and prefer to shoot better and figure out away to live with the problem if and when it came up.

Fact is some egg head on AZ will probably discover a way to keep it clean and there won't be a problem.

Now someone on here is thinking"I thought Dean invented that magic DEANO cue,why is he even talking about this new shaft? My wife asked the same question,just because iI play the DEANO and love it doesn't keep me from trying other ideas. Sure I would be surprised if I like it more,but the thought keeps me willing to experiment.

In conclusion the only way I know is to give it a try. My offer to trade is on the way to Tommy.

DEAN
 
I make my personal shafts similar to this and have been playing with the same shaft for 2 years. I was originally concerned with how the shaft would hold up not having a ferrule but like I stated it has been fine for 2 yrs.
I like the hit of no ferrule. One thing you can do to help keep the wood clean by the tip is apply a coat of super glue to where the ferrule would be.
Good luck with the shafts I think if more people tried the no ferrule option they would like it.
 
Last edited:
For myself... I use a gray color Silver Cup chalk. Started using it many years ago to avoid black/blue hands. This chalk works great (haven't seen any average player that can do anything I can't from that standpoint - if I can't do it, it ain't the chalk). It also doesn't discolor the shaft, your hands, etc, so badly - there's a reason many sellers will send tan chalk out with a cue you intend to test drive.
I can show you shafts that I've used extensively for years that you would be amazed how clean they are - shaft AND ferrule - and that includes pre-cat 314 shafts that are famous for their ferrules discoloring easily. Mine are white after many years use, and I carry my own chalk, in my pocket, and chalk after nearly every shot as a habit that has become unconscious at this point. I also clean my shafts periodically - it's not tough.
It's just not necessary that shafts get crappy. Chalk's cheap - don't burrow it out like a gopher looking for China, you don't hit the cue ball with the ferrule so don't chalk it there. Do a sloppy job of chalking your tip and, sooner or later, you'll get a sloppy response from the cue ball for your trouble.
 
Last edited:
This is very interesting indeed........ Someone let me know how these shafts play,

Chuck

They play well, exhibiting the characteristics you would expect from a LD shaft. Our goal was to design a LD shaft for CA$H cues so players using one now could transition to our cues easily. We met the goal, and the shaft can be had on any CA$H cue.


The shaft design is in it's infancy, and adjustments will need to be made. Ralf gave us an objection he, and most likely anybody else, would have with the current design. Will offered up a solution to that objection that seems viable to me. To Dean and Chris, this is not an issue, and would be a bonus to them if we solve the problem for Ralf.

More to come as we move ahead with this and other things from the shop. Thanks to everyone for their input, it is more valuable to me than you know.
 
You state it exhibits the characteristics of what you would expect from an LD shaft. Do you have any test data on this shaft? Any data comparing deflection vs other LD cues? o?
 
Sounds interesting and looks super cool. Someone remarked about Tiger and OB shafts being made overseas but they are made in the USA also as far as I know, Predator is made overseas. Most companies like the ones mentioned above and others like Cuetec break down in diagrams or explain how the shaft gets the LD, can you explain why it is LD?
 
Back
Top