Any ideas?
- Thread starter danutz
- Start date
Sorry, pic sux. "ebony" is black paint, all of it, and altho the veneers are real mitered veneers, and very pointy, they were not v-grooved in. Cue is from a well known, and respected maker, and 1 of the many reasons i don't like cnc'd cues. SOME of the builders who use them get a bit too tricky, if you know what i mean
Imagine dropping $2k on this, how pissed would you be? I feel so bad for the owner, that i don't think i should even tell him what he actually has
What would you do?
Imagine dropping $2k on this, how pissed would you be? I feel so bad for the owner, that i don't think i should even tell him what he actually has What would you do?
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the sky is blue
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I guess it depends. I have changed with age. If someone shows me a cue and asks my thoughts I throw it back at them asking what they think. If they love it who am I to bust there bubble? If they are unhappy I will explain the whole 9 yards. In your case one shoe does not fit all feet so its your call on what you say.
I'm really curious who made it.
Is it stained maple or painted? I know you said painted but I thought maybe you meant stained. Can't tell a thing from the pic.
I've seen lots of stained cues. If it were sold to me as ebony I would be seriously concerned. As far as the construction, same thing, if I was told it was one thing and it was another I wouldn't like it. If it's CNC and I am told up front it is CNC then OK...but if it is presented as a short spliced cue I would expect V-grooved points.
I feel like we got enough info to develop some intrigue but I'm not sure what to make of it at this point.
Is it stained maple or painted? I know you said painted but I thought maybe you meant stained. Can't tell a thing from the pic.
I've seen lots of stained cues. If it were sold to me as ebony I would be seriously concerned. As far as the construction, same thing, if I was told it was one thing and it was another I wouldn't like it. If it's CNC and I am told up front it is CNC then OK...but if it is presented as a short spliced cue I would expect V-grooved points.
I feel like we got enough info to develop some intrigue but I'm not sure what to make of it at this point.
Hi,
The black on the handle was marked black on the end because of a dark wrap no doubt, that is what I do.
No one puts inlay pockets into a painted cue, that does not make sense. Ebony for a forearm is only $ 20.00 and point sock is only 7.00.
A painted forearm with points and inlays is a bad observation IMHO.
Rick
The black on the handle was marked black on the end because of a dark wrap no doubt, that is what I do.
No one puts inlay pockets into a painted cue, that does not make sense. Ebony for a forearm is only $ 20.00 and point sock is only 7.00.
A painted forearm with points and inlays is a bad observation IMHO.
Rick
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I can't see from the picture well enough to tell for sure, but that was My first thought as well. Some people use a sharpie there, although that looks to be paint.
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i think somebodys out in left field and it aint the original cuemaker. If i had to bet, i would say that the cue is not one solid pc. of maple and it is likely not a cnc pointed cue at that, if it is then it certainly has an a joint. Why would someone inlay maple/green/maple veneer into maple then paint around it? If the veneer were in fact inlayed then they would likely be somewhat rounded at the bottom where they are hidden beneath the wrap, from the picture they appear to be square as in faced off.
I've never made a cue in my life, but I was thinking similar.
If one were taking "shortcuts" wouldn't it actually be more work to do it that way? I mean, the points are all squared off at the bottom. That would take a bunch of hand work to square them off like that for the inlays, right? And for what when the rounded corners could just be hidden under the wrap if one wanted to "hide" the evidence of CNC?
What am I missing?
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I know it seems weird, that's why i asked. I know for a fact that the black is painted on, and not ebony. The cue had a couple nice dents right above the points where the finish had lifted, and well lol, that's when i figured out the forearm was painted. That was before i even got the white/green spec linen wrap off..........The cue has never been touched by anyone till now, it is original. I'm sure you guys are right about there being an A-joint, i probably just cant find it with the paint over it.
Well that rules out what came to Mind then, if It's showing through higher on the forearm, and not just at the edge of the wrap groove then It must be painted. Seems like more work then It would be worth in any savings over using the real deal. The inlays would have to be turned I would think, and like was mentioned would be no fun trying to paint around everything. If you paint first then inlay then what about flushing the inlays to the cue without wiping the black out? Actually I'm kind of interested in knowing what steps were taken to to do it that way, because If it were me I would just fork It up and use the ebony, it would be easier that way anyhow. There could be other reasons for using It though, like weight and balance is one that comes to mind. I guess only the maker knows for sure. Everyone thinks and builds differently with their own Ideology, and I don't to like knock anyone for doing what works for them, but If I specifically asked for ebony, and not just a black cue, then I would probably be upset if It wasn't mentioned to me before the build took place. Either way I like the the green and black together, looks nice.