Any REALLY GOOD SOLUTION/CEANER-"CLEAN/Remove SHAFT BLUEING????

I use Chris Hightower's cleaning solution on really dirty shafts applied with Magic Eraser. Then I follow up with denatured alcohol and Magic Eraser. Finally, to get the shaft "white" clean, you may have to sand lightly with 400 grit followed by 600 grit and even 800 grit to get the fiber to lay back down. Some will argue "NO SANDPAPER" as it will change the shaft. It would take a LOT of sanding at 400 to be able to measure the difference. But I suppose if the sander were persistent, then yes it could happen or happen over a number of months/years.
After you have the shaft smooth as silk, apply a sealer to help keep future chalk out of the grain, smooth and wax if you like. I use Renaissance wax which dries hard and smooth, but some customers don't like the feel.
My 2 cents,
YMMV
Gary
 
The 400 grit I have will take a couple of thousandths off, very quickly.
Hi Sheldon,
Yes, there are 2 standards of grit ratings for sandpaper. I've got some 400 that seems more like 220, but I don't use that for cleaning. In my defense, I did write "to get the shaft "white" clean, you may have to sand lightly with 400 grit" etc. Of course, the word "lightly" was overlooked.
In any case, if a player allows chalk to get ground down into the grain of the wood and wants a "like new" shaft, there's not a whole lot else to do. And that was the OP's original question I do believe.
What do YOU use in that situation?
Gary
 
The black 400 3M wet dry paper will not remove .002" very quick, but the red or tan stuff made for wood will.
 
once it's clean

Keep a damp paper towel handy as you play, evert mow and then wipe your hands, and wipe the shaft down. It's easier to keep them clean, than trying to sand them down. I use green chalk on my he table it'such cleaner than the blue.
 
Magic Eraser!!

As has already been said, Mr Clean Magic Eraser works great!!

Run it under hot water, squeeze out the excess water, and clean away!

No abrasives at all, and it makes the shaft and ferule look brand new.

Just don't over wet the shaft and have some paper towels handy to wipe down the shaft right away.



You could use denatured alcohol instead of water to avoid too much moisture.

I just use water and dont overdo it.


Works great, and cheap.
 
I use denatured alcohol and the Eraser,in 2 ways.

Most of the work get done with the lathe on,but really dirty shafts get a 2nd treatment.

Turn the lathe off and go WITH the grain. For this I use a clean part of the Eraser and rotate often.

After all this,the shaft will be completely clean after a light sanding to smooth everything back out.

Once the shaft is sealed,buffed and waxed,most of the time it looks and feels unplayed.

I've also used normal household cleaners like Awesome Orange too. Tommy D.
 
Water

As has already been said, Mr Clean Magic Eraser works great!!

Run it under hot water, squeeze out the excess water, and clean away!

No abrasives at all, and it makes the shaft and ferule look brand new.

Just don't over wet the shaft and have some paper towels handy to wipe down the shaft right away.



You could use denatured alcohol instead of water to avoid too much moisture.

I just use water and dont overdo it.


Works great, and cheap.

You use water on a laminated shaft ?
 
This is what predator says about using water on their shafts

I do, why not?


http://www.predatorcues.com/technique/

The purpose of burnishing your shaft is to smooth and seal the wood. The more you burnish, the better the finish and, the slicker and more moisture resistant your shaft becomes. Moisture is the #1 enemy of your shaft. It causes the grain to raise and your shaft to warp. To burnish your shaft, use a leather burnisher and avoid abrasives. Sanding your shaft wears it down and makes the wood porous, which allows moisture to penetrate the grain and damage the wood.

I
 
http://www.predatorcues.com/technique/

The purpose of burnishing your shaft is to smooth and seal the wood. The more you burnish, the better the finish and, the slicker and more moisture resistant your shaft becomes. Moisture is the #1 enemy of your shaft. It causes the grain to raise and your shaft to warp. To burnish your shaft, use a leather burnisher and avoid abrasives. Sanding your shaft wears it down and makes the wood porous, which allows moisture to penetrate the grain and damage the wood.

I

These are just general comments that would apply to all shafts, no?. I do not think they indicate that laminated shafts are in some way MORE vulnerable to moisture than solid shafts.
 
I use denatured alcohol and the Eraser,in 2 ways.

Most of the work get done with the lathe on,but really dirty shafts get a 2nd treatment.

Turn the lathe off and go WITH the grain. For this I use a clean part of the Eraser and rotate often.

After all this,the shaft will be completely clean after a light sanding to smooth everything back out.

Once the shaft is sealed,buffed and waxed,most of the time it looks and feels unplayed.

I've also used normal household cleaners like Awesome Orange too. Tommy D.

What are you using to seal the shaft prior to buffing & waxing?
 
Water

These are just general comments that would apply to all shafts, no?. I do not think they indicate that laminated shafts are in some way MORE vulnerable to moisture than solid shafts.

I do, I think that is exactly what predator saying .

I think cleaning a predator shaft with water will void the warranty .........................

Predators warranty

*WARRANTY INFORMATION
As the manufacturer of the highest quality billiards products on the market today, Predator Products (Predator) is committed to the performance and durability of its products. To protect your investment, Predator offers a Limited Lifetime Warranty against manufacturing defects. If you ever experience a problem that you believe is covered under warranty, please return your product to us and/or email us at Customer Service. Please note that this warranty does not cover problems resulting from wood warping or abuse.
Terms And Conditions. Predator warrants solely to the original purchaser of the product, for as long as he/she may own it, that it shall be free from defects in materials and workmanship under normal use. This Limited Lifetime Warranty is non-transferrable and does not apply to asserted defects resulting from: (a) normal wear and tear; (b) modification, misuse, abuse or improper maintenance; and/or (c) damage associated with exposure to extreme temperature or humidity.
This Limited Lifetime Warranty applies only to those products purchased from authorized dealers of Predator. Predator shafts designed for Uni-Loc® and Radial® joints are only warranted when coupled with Original Uni-Loc® and Radial® joints.


Predators suggested method of cleaning

Stay Away From Abrasives
Do not use any abrasives on your shaft and stay away from green pads in Pool Rooms. Using abrasives is going to take the diameter of your shaft down and modify the shape of your taper. It may even void the warranty of your Predator shaft if the ferrule or wood diameter falls below 12.25mm for 314 shafts and 11.4mm for Z shafts. Very fine micro papers (1500 grit) or burnishing is about all you need.
________________________________________________________________

Personally I consider all laminated LD shafts as being fragile.
There are allot of things a cue repair person or the owner can do in maintaining these laminated shafts that will void the warranty where on a solid maple shaft it wouldn't .
I am not so sure denatured alcohol will not void the warranty on some of these laminated LD shafts .
Which is one of the fluids I use to clean solid maple shafts.
Makes me wonder if some players who hands sweat a lot isn't the cause of some of these shafts to warp .

I want to do the best possible job on the cue brought into me for repairs and not damage the cue or shaft in the process of repairing it and maintaining it.

Everyone in here needs to be up to date on what will void the warranty on certain shafts and what the best maintenance procedures or what is the recommended factory maintenance procedures for that companies products.
 
CHEAPEST SECRET PRODUCT I HAVE EVER USED.

I have been using "BON-AMI" an environmentally-green, non abrasive, non-grit, non-damaging cleanser that has been around for decades and decades.

Several cuemakers use it, as I do with just a small bit of water. It is completely safe, cleanser powder. I feel better using a small amount of water rather than any harsh chemicals incl. denatured or other Alcohol on my cues. Just sayin'

Like 2$ at walmart.... in the kitchen cleanser section will last you generations.

This is much cheaper that "Q-clean," which cleans wonderfully as all Q products.. but smells harsh.... like it may have bleach in it, Bon Ami for me!
 
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The sealer I usually use is a home-brew but starts out as the water based Minwax Polycrylic clear satin finish. I thin it and add a little something extra ;).

I've also experimented recently with a General Finishes Wood Turner's Finish available from Woodcraft. It's also water based,and works really nice.

As far as denatured alcohol being harmful to shaft wood,it's MUCH less likely to cause a problem than just about anything else due to the rapid drying time.

It cleans pretty well too,esp when used with the Eraser.

I saw Jimmy Wetch clean his Predator shafts with a wet washrag and COMET once. When someone asked him about it,he said he wasn't worried about liquid causing damage because he never uses shafts for more than 6 months at a time anyway. Tommy D.
 
The sealer I usually use is a home-brew but starts out as the water based Minwax Polycrylic clear satin finish. I thin it and add a little something extra ;).

I've also experimented recently with a General Finishes Wood Turner's Finish available from Woodcraft. It's also water based,and works really nice.

As far as denatured alcohol being harmful to shaft wood,it's MUCH less likely to cause a problem than just about anything else due to the rapid drying time.

It cleans pretty well too,esp when used with the Eraser.

I saw Jimmy Wetch clean his Predator shafts with a wet washrag and COMET once. When someone asked him about it,he said he wasn't worried about liquid causing damage because he never uses shafts for more than 6 months at a time anyway. Tommy D.


After reading predator cleaning suggestions, I have to wonder is Denatured alcohol on a Laminated LD shaft wouldn't damage them.

I have zero issues cleaning a solid maple shaft with denatured alcohol .

Personally I clean Laminated LD shaft completely different then solid maple shafts .
 
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