Any Tips on Safety Play?

Bobalicious

Bobalicious

The one and only.....
Silver Member
In regards to JoeyA, I've decided to follow that line of thought and ask for help from everyone again! I am a rater weak safety player unless the balls are lined up easily so.... My question now is, does anyone have any ideas on how to practice safety play in order to get the most out of it? I know that setting up a few common safety plays are a good idea but since it is my weak area I am unfamiliar with what to look for when it comes to a good safety.

I know that freezing to an object ball without a clear path to the intended next object ball is a great way to do things but it doesn't necessarily come that naturally to me to see those kind of safeties. Nor do I see the 2 rail, 3 rail, or even a draw safety that easily.

This might be helped by me slowing down my pace in a game and taking more time to study the table, but I would also like some help on what to look for to get a good safety. That way I can get my mind to think along those lines and "bring my game to the next level."

I also want to thank all of those who posted in my last thread (Is there such thing as TOO much practicing?) . You all were a big help with all the ideas and subtle changes I can make or with the different ways to look at how I practice. Thank you and know that I will take a little bit of each of your ideas and try and work them into my game. You all are great and are helping a pool player such as myself become better at a game he loves!
 
My advice for what its worth.
In rotation games like nine ball or ten ball I have a rule for whenever it's possible. I first will designate a spot for the object ball to be when I finish. At the same time putting the cue ball behind another ball. The cue ball position behind another ball I would consider a bonus. The most important thing is placing the object ball where I intend it to wind up at. If the hook does not materialize at least I have left something difficult. I have made it rule to keep the object ball from the middle of the table or near a pocket.

If I stray from this rule it's because I have a guaranteed hook.

If I'm looking to make the hit difficult for my opponent I would like to leave or place the object ball near or congested with other balls. (also makes a better situation for consecutive fouls from your opponent)

I like throwing the balls around the table for practicing safeties. Evey shot is a safe and then practice kicking at the ball. I never play to pocket the ball unless it's hanging. When I do I pocket the ball I will play position to play a safe. Nine balls playing safe on all turns could last a while. Doing this will force you to get creative in looking for a safe.
 
Bobalicious said:
In regards to JoeyA, I've decided to follow that line of thought and ask for help from everyone again! I am a rater weak safety player unless the balls are lined up easily so.... My question now is, does anyone have any ideas on how to practice safety play in order to get the most out of it? I know that setting up a few common safety plays are a good idea but since it is my weak area I am unfamiliar with what to look for when it comes to a good safety.

I know that freezing to an object ball without a clear path to the intended next object ball is a great way to do things but it doesn't necessarily come that naturally to me to see those kind of safeties. Nor do I see the 2 rail, 3 rail, or even a draw safety that easily.

This might be helped by me slowing down my pace in a game and taking more time to study the table, but I would also like some help on what to look for to get a good safety. That way I can get my mind to think along those lines and "bring my game to the next level."

I also want to thank all of those who posted in my last thread (Is there such thing as TOO much practicing?) . You all were a big help with all the ideas and subtle changes I can make or with the different ways to look at how I practice. Thank you and know that I will take a little bit of each of your ideas and try and work them into my game. You all are great and are helping a pool player such as myself become better at a game he loves!
Click to expand...

Learn the tangent lines, the effects of side spin etc. It's a lot easier to envision the paths of the balls if you know where they are going. After that it is speed control.
 
You need to know tangent lines. If you dont understand it then take a lesson. And practice your ass off!!! Win or lose do not be scared to practice those in a match. You are going to miss hundreds and lose a lot of games because of it, but keep practising, because when you start to get it, knowing that you can confidently do when you need to will pay off. Confidence is a huge part of pool.
2nd,
I would say work with one ball or the other on your safeties, meaning tuck the cue or the object ball for now, dont worry about both for a while. Remember that if you are going to play a safe, it helps to have the object ball away from the rails, this cuts off easy kicks.
Good luck,
 
I would recommend to start off with your strengths. If you are good with stop shots then practice just hitting stop shots on the cue ball and getting the OB to roll to where you need it.

Also, if you play well enough to have some better cue ball control, then look for 'walls of balls', i.e. 2 or more balls near each other or that obscure a certain part of the table. Try to work your CB backward (in your minds' picture) from the ideal (landing) spot and through the path that best gets you to that spot and back to your starting position. If that makes sense. If it doesn't then feel free to question what needs to be clarified.

Watch and play snooker. The worlds best game to learn safefy play IMO.

Good luck.

td
 
grindz said:
... Watch and play snooker. The worlds best game to learn safety play IMO. ...
Click to expand...
I think if he is going to be playing pool, one pocket will be a much better game to learn safes with, especially the little close-manipulation shots.
 
One rule of thumb I picked up from Buddy Hall about playing safe is this. You're not going to be able to control both balls perfectly so choose one of them and work on that one. Of course if you're thinking of hiding the cue ball you're going to want a general area for the OB too but he's right, you can not control both balls.

I would also suggest working on your cue ball speed and yes, something not too many people practice, your object ball speed. When I use to practice all the time I would set 10 or 15 minutes aside just shooting the object ball and trying to get it to stop at certain places, like stopping just before it drops in the pocket etc... For good safety play I think it's a must to know how far that object ball is going to roll.
MULLY
 
Many great ideas and I thank you for it. For those who asked I play money games and for fun. I do not play leagues yet. That will be coming later this year I hope. I have been starting to play one pocket a lot more and its been said earlier that it is a good game to learn safety play. As for the tangent lines.... well I guess I will have to get some one on one help with because I won't have a good idea of what to keep an eye out for and what kind of shot can be minipulated for better results.

Again, I thank all of you for your continuing support and enormous help in trying to make me a little better than I am. Now to go hit the tables with my new found knowledge. Thanks everyone!
 
Keep It Simple Stupid!

Remember safes can also be the result of: distance (long or short), location (tough cut or bank), or position for next shot.

You must pick the easiest combination of effect and executability (is that a word?).
 
It's good to see young players wanting to learn safties. It's become a huge part of the game now. Years ago only pros played safe based on percentage of the shot before him/her or who he was playing. I know for a fact that that's why I never was a top player. I wanted to fire at everything. When I finally figured out that playing safe was the smart way in some cases it was too late. I could no longer make thoe 9 foot shots and paper thin cuts with any kind percentage. At the very least I would have been good longer. Remember, when you see a good player start missing the long shots he use to make that it's all down hill from ther. Earl is one that comes to mind. Johnnyt
 
Other than sweating better players and practicing the shots that come up in competitive situations for you...

Look for Mike Sigel Accu-stats matches. Especially if Grady or Incardona are doing commentary.

There is a limited amount of safety types. Learn all of them. Try to think of what your opponent is going to do next. Try blocking kicking lanes and leaving lots of distance.

Not selling out is not enough. Some kicks are so easy, the guy is gonna kick-safe you right back.

If the shot is tough and position is tough, duck. If you get out of line, play the safe.
 
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Something that helps with safety play is knowing the rule of thumb distance each ball will travel.

For instance...A normally struck CB where you aim the center of the CB to the edge of the OB will travel approx the same distance as the OB..

A normally struck CB where you aim the left 1/4 of the CB to the edge of the OB will travel half again as far as the OB.

Thes are approximations of course, but you get the idea....This will help you judge the "separation distance" depending on where you have to hit the OB to get it to the position you want.
 
you know how it's usually good to try to play position coming into the line of a shot, so your speed doesn't have to be perfect then?

try and do the same with safeties too - have it so the cue ball is say coming off a rail towards the blocker balls - so if you get the speed perfect, you freeze them tight on the ball, if it's not, then you've still got a total eclipse.
 
As others have said, trying to lock up either the cue ball or the object ball is a good idea, at least until you're good enough to do both consistently. Choose whichever one you can lock up the tightest, but if you have an even choice, lock up the cue ball. Hiding the bullet's better than hiding the target.

pj
chgo
 
All good advice so far, but don't underestimate the power of simply leaving hard shots.

I used to play a simple safety game designed for 9-ball with a friend in college. It was a good way to practice and teaches you a lot about ducks and playing return safeties.

Start with just the 9-ball on the foot spot and cue ball in hand. The first shot played has to be a safety. After that, table is open and the first player to pocket the 9-ball on a called shot wins.

You'll quickly learn lag speed and how to control the balls to leave long, difficult shots. You'll also learn how to play a return safety off those type of leaves, and back and forth indefinitely. Also, it'll show you how devastating a difficult leave can be to the incoming player even without a snooker. Offensive shots tend to sell out; defensive shots are difficult and seldom practiced by most players. In fact, I've found that good ducks tend to be winning percentage plays against anyone up to an A player or so.

The point is, you don't need a perfect safety to play the percentages in 9-ball.
 
I heard this somewhere before...

tsw_521 said:
All good advice so far, but don't underestimate the power of simply leaving hard shots...it'll show you how devastating a difficult leave can be to the incoming player ...
Click to expand...

Black-Balled said:
...Remember safes can also be the result of: distance (long or short), location (tough cut or bank), or position for next shot...
Click to expand...
Black-Balled said:
...Remember safes can also be the result of: distance (long or short), location (tough cut or bank), or position for next shot...
Click to expand...
Black-Balled said:
...Remember safes can also be the result of: distance (long or short), location (tough cut or bank), or position for next shot...
Click to expand...
Black-Balled said:
...Remember safes can also be the result of: distance (long or short), location (tough cut or bank), or position for next shot...
Click to expand...
 
Find someone who loves pool as much as you and you could have a lot of fun while improving your safety and kick play.

Defensive 10 Ball Rules of play

The play of Defensive 10 Ball may only be appreciated by top players right now but it is one of the quickest ways for an intermediate player to improve upon their safety and kicking skills.

It is racked and played similar to a normal rack of 10 ball with the 1 in the front and the 10 in the middle but scoring is different.

The object of the game is to earn as many points as possible during each rack.

Players earn 1 point for each ball pocketed but you are only allowed 2 offensive shots in a row and then you must play safe.

You can score more than 2 points if you happen to sink more than 1 ball on a single stroke.

A typical break starts the game and all balls pocketed stay down and are worth 1 point each to the breaker BUT whether the breaker made a ball or not the 1st shot after the break must be a push out. A push out is when a player chooses a position on the table to reposition the cue ball (of course by shooting it to a new position and not by picking it up and placing it with their hand), once the player has repositioned the cue ball the next player up has the option to take the new challenging shot or pass it back to the other player.

After the push out players may now pocket balls or play safe. If you pocket a ball on your first stroke of an inning you are allowed a second shot and if you pocket another ball you must now play safe on your 3rd stroke.

All ball in hand rules apply, if player ?A? fails to make a legal hit or shot player ?B? gets ball in hand and is allowed a maximum of 2 offensive shots before they must play safe. This is where it pays to play tight safeties. If a player pockets a ball accidently or on purpose on their 3rd stroke the object ball is spotted on the foot spot and the cue ball stays where it is so it is sometimes advisable to execute such a shot.

The player that sinks the 10 ball has the break in the next rack. There are 10 points per rack and players should agree to race to a certain amount of points, 25 points is generally an interesting race.
 
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