any truth to slight elevation on draw shots?

PKM

PKM

OB-1 Kenobi
Silver Member
I've heard a few people say you should elevate your cue slightly on draw shots (I'm thinking specifically of power draw shots, where I have some trouble). Mostly though I've heard to keep the cue as level as possible, obviously it will not be completely level.

What do you think of the advice to have slightly more elevation than strictly necessary for power draw shots? Perhaps it is to give the CB a slight jump to maintain spin? What if it's not quite that much of a power shot where you'd need that? Is it one of those things where good players have a habit that might not be good to teach?

Of course I'm aware of the danger of hitting the CB off-center if you use an elevated cue.
 
PKM said:
I've heard a few people say you should elevate your cue slightly on draw shots (I'm thinking specifically of power draw shots, where I have some trouble). Mostly though I've heard to keep the cue as level as possible, obviously it will not be completely level.

What do you think of the advice to have slightly more elevation than strictly necessary for power draw shots? Perhaps it is to give the CB a slight jump to maintain spin? What if it's not quite that much of a power shot where you'd need that? Is it one of those things where good players have a habit that might not be good to teach?

Of course I'm aware of the danger of hitting the CB off-center if you use an elevated cue.
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You want to be as level as possible whenever possible. The moment you raise the butt of your cue, you introduce curves and jumps and unless you WANT to curve or jump, it's best to keep that out of the equation.
 
I repectfully disagree, I have started elevating my cue "Slightly" at the advice of a pro player and I have found that it is much easier to draw the cue ball the length of the table and then some. If your stroke is good, you should not have a problem pocketing the object ball.

Also, try bridging closer to the cue ball.....

Russ.....
 
I've tried to elevate my cue. The only thing the CB does is stop. I think it's easier to play a follow and cheat the pocket.
 
Yes, when accuracy is not the most important issue, having a slightly elevated cue will allow the cue ball to spin faster before striking the object ball, thus increasing the length of the draw.

This occurs because the cue ball is indeed jumping a little, and the cloth does not impede the rotational velocity due to friction.
 
The more the butt is raised the more goes on within the whole shot. Simplier is always better, as the butt raises the difficulty rises, as the butt rises the percentage of making the shot goes down. If bringing the butt up were to help, you'd be seeing allot of players shooting at a 45degree angle all the time if they could. Sure is hard to see your work tho from that high up:D
 
Island Drive said:
The more the butt is raised the more goes on within the whole shot. Simplier is always better, as the butt raises the difficulty rises, as the butt rises the percentage of making the shot goes down. If bringing the butt up were to help, you'd be seeing allot of players shooting at a 45degree angle all the time if they could. Sure is hard to see your work tho from that high up:D
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I don't think he's talking about 45 degrees. More like 2 to 3 inches. I have always done it for severe draws. It only makes sense to raise the butt and hit down on the ball when needing maximum draw. Watch Mike Massey.
 
PKM said:
I've heard a few people say you should elevate your cue slightly on draw shots (I'm thinking specifically of power draw shots, where I have some trouble). Mostly though I've heard to keep the cue as level as possible, obviously it will not be completely level.

What do you think of the advice to have slightly more elevation than strictly necessary for power draw shots? Perhaps it is to give the CB a slight jump to maintain spin? What if it's not quite that much of a power shot where you'd need that? Is it one of those things where good players have a habit that might not be good to teach?

Of course I'm aware of the danger of hitting the CB off-center if you use an elevated cue.
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the choice really has more to do with maintaining a consistent stroke pattern.

are you a follow-through stroker, then level as possible (you will need less force too.) this will make the cue-ball to slide longer.

are you a punch stroker, then slight elevation is OK just make sure you're dead on because the cue-ball will "bite" the cloth(this is where the shot usually go awry if not dead on) before it elevates.
 
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Anytime you elevate the cue, you are inviting more spin on the cueball, whether it be left, right, top or bottom. If the spin is undesired, then you can get yourself into trouble.

Southpaw
 
For snap-back draw, yes...elevate your cue a little.
For follow through draw....level as possible, and aim low.

You should be able to perform both type of strokes with the same effectiveness. If not, practice more.

Your swing arm's mechanics will contribute the most for success.
 
Honestly, try both and just see what works for you....the draw should be consistent, with you pocketing the ball every time....personally, level cue works for me, but a couple inches shouldn't hurt....

Aggressive draw should mean you poorly played position....when possible, a stop shot should be your first choice.....next, use follow....finally, draw, but only if you have to.....less is more....my two cents.....

Try it out and post up your best results....keep your stroke smooth and control your elbow....
 
PKM said:
I've heard a few people say you should elevate your cue slightly on draw shots (I'm thinking specifically of power draw shots, where I have some trouble). Mostly though I've heard to keep the cue as level as possible, obviously it will not be completely level.

What do you think of the advice to have slightly more elevation than strictly necessary for power draw shots? Perhaps it is to give the CB a slight jump to maintain spin? What if it's not quite that much of a power shot where you'd need that? Is it one of those things where good players have a habit that might not be good to teach?

Of course I'm aware of the danger of hitting the CB off-center if you use an elevated cue.
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A level cue is generally considered the optimal stroke.

I have, on occassion, advocated and instructed to use a slightly elevated cue for very specific draw shots. IMO, this is really a specialty shot and should not be implemented by novice and most intermediate players. And, just like every other specialty shot, there is a time and place. But you should always adhere to the golden rule of pool: You will lose more games by missing easy shots than by making spectacular ones.

WesleyW said:
I've tried to elevate my cue. The only thing the CB does is stop. I think it's easier to play a follow and cheat the pocket.
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Most times, getting stop and not draw is a sighting problem, and not a stroking problem. This is especially true if you can get top to "work."

-td
 
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td873 said:
Most times, getting stop and not draw is a sighting problem, and not a stroking problem. This is especially true if you can get top to "work."
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A sighting problem?
 
td873 said:
A level cue is generally considered the optimal stroke.
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This I agree with. You don't need to jack up any... You may want to jack up a little for a few special cases, as mentioned by td873, but not often. For example, with a slight cut, you can change when the draw kicks in by jacking up a little...

The cue ball can be drawn hardcore either as level as possible or jacked up high...it is POSSIBLE; but you'll have a WAY better success rate not jacking up over say 10 degrees or something like that...

At least, that's the way I see things. :cool:
 
td873 said:
... I have, on occassion, advocated and instructed to use a slightly elevated cue for very specific draw shots. IMO, this is really a specialty shot and should not be implemented by novice and most intermediate players. ...
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An example is if you want the cue ball to hop forward and some to the side before drawing back in order to avoid an obstacle. You elevate to delay the draw (and the draw won't be as good, usually).

There is also a technique called pique' in which the stick is elevated significantly. This is really a half-masse shot and it allows you to get a lot of draw for the amount of speed on the cue ball and object ball.

In my experience, people have problems with draw far more often because they are too elevated rather than not elevated enough. On the other hand, if you can't make a flat bridge, you have to jack up just to hit the ball low.
 
I'm in the 'minimal elevation' side of this issue, and agree with Jude and Bob Jewett. Indeed, MOST players who elevate their cue will get less draw than with a level cue. This is frequently due to stroke errors, as td873 noted. If you can accurately deliver the cuestick through the CB, with a reasonably level cuestick, and actually strike the CB at the maximum low tip position (which is MUCH lower than most players perceive), the cueball will draw significantly, at most any distance, with the appropriate stroke speed. Accuracy will be sacrificed with increased elevation of the cuestick, as well as, imo, how much draw you'll get. Using Massey as an example is not relevant, because of his incredibly powerful stroke...which 99.9% of players (including myself) cannot duplicate. I can, however, power draw two table lengths, with 7-8 feet between CB and OB, using a level cue, the right stroke speed, a light grip, no muscle, and no elbow drop.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
Mark Avlon said:
You might be interested in the article Perfect Draw by George Onoda. Can anyone here get perfect draw?
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Onoda shows a right-angle turn of the cue ball for a cut of 39 degrees. I think most people can do that only up to about 30 degrees of cut for typical conditions, and that gives a convenient reference point for position played with draw.

If you want to test yourself for the 39-degree shot, note that the on-line article says to put the object ball 4% inches from the spot. I think that should be 4 1/2 inches, which would be the exact location of the third spotted ball.
 
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